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Old 07-12-2012, 04:22 PM   #1
Training Wheels
ein54rr's Avatar
OP
 
Joined: Apr 2011
From: Bellingham, WA

I Ride: CBR954RR
Gimme yer advice on rattle-can paint.
So I tried to paint my bike the cheap way: myself. I didn't do the clear coat correctly. I didn't lay it down thick enough on the final coat and got "dry spots" all over the place. I might try to wet sand lightly with 600g then give a couple more coats of clear but I'm worried that sanding what's already there might cloud up the finish that's about to be sealed in by more clear. Or will the new clear bond to, and remove the cloudiness of the original botched layer? It seems like I would have to sand anyways in order for the new coat to apply.

If all else fails, I might just camo the whole thing as cheaply as possible. I'm getting impatient to ride again. The more impatient I grow, the less I care about aesthetics.

Things you might ask me later: It's a Honda CBR954, I'm doing all the plastics and the tank too, I'm using Dupli-color products currently, I'm a Leo and I like long walks on the beach.

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Old 07-12-2012, 04:36 PM   #2
Shredder
Jeffytune's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
From: Beaverton

I Ride: Harley FLHTCU
Wet sand it with 1200, then re-shoot the clear.

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Old 07-12-2012, 04:47 PM   #3
Peg Dragger
h_travis's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
From: Bellingham

I Ride: 04RC51-05600RR-05DRZ400sm
I'm no expert, but you might try experimenting with setting the can of paint in a warm bucket of water, this will pressurize the can more and may help atomize the paint as it sprays, resulting in a finer mist. May help you get more even thin coats. Just don't get the can too hot, like 110 to 115 degrees should be good. There should be a max storage temp rating in the fine print. Don't exceed it. Good luck man

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Old 07-12-2012, 05:03 PM   #4
Training Wheels
ein54rr's Avatar
OP
 
Joined: Apr 2011
From: Bellingham, WA

I Ride: CBR954RR
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by h_travis View Post
I'm no expert, but you might try experimenting with setting the can of paint in a warm bucket of water, this will pressurize the can more and may help atomize the paint as it sprays, resulting in a finer mist. May help you get more even thin coats. Just don't get the can too hot, like 110 to 115 degrees should be good. There should be a max storage temp rating in the fine print. Don't exceed it. Good luck man
I was told the exact same thing by an auto-body guy before I started. It definitely helped. The black paint under the clear came out alright, better than it should have considering this is my first time. I should have done the clear in slower passes, holding the can a bit closer.

I'll give that 1200g a shot. I'm hoping to bring this chapter to a close and get this bad mother finished up this weekend.

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Old 07-15-2012, 12:37 AM   #5
Newbie
 
Joined: Apr 2012
From: Bellingham, WA

I Ride: 98 ZX6RRR-R
Has anybody else gotten good results with a rattle can?

As ein knows, I painted my bike this way and it turned out pretty decent for gloss black. I used many coats and a lot of paint. I used Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel - "Premium Automotive Formulation".

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Old 07-15-2012, 04:28 AM   #6
Shredder
nsrg500's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
From: Everett. WA

I Ride: GS1150 Rat bike, NSR(G)500cc two stroke,CBR 900rr,98 Super chicken
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Oddball View Post
Has anybody else gotten good results with a rattle can?
As ein knows, I painted my bike this way and it turned out pretty decent for gloss black. I used many coats and a lot of paint. I used Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel - "Premium Automotive Formulation".
I didn't paint these parts but wet sanding and buffing got it presentable.
Might have looked really nice if it wasn't so thin.
I was much much worse in 3D. All the panels looked like this >>









I can't say what brand of paint it was. It was very soft and sanded easily.
Too thin in most places.
From 10+ feet away it looks fine.
I have like $200 cash into it.

So in my opinion you can get some reasonable results with a Bomb can.
The smaller the part the easier it is to make it look nice.

My 2C anyway.

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Old 07-15-2012, 08:17 AM   #7
Pit Crew
ITSME's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
From: FERNDALE

I Ride: 07 BUELL LIGHTNING
Here is a lil write up i did on my FZ6 on another site using rattle can paint from Colorrite.com
http://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/fz6-m...dent-gone.html
if you have any questions at all I'd be happy to answer them, good luck!

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Old 07-15-2012, 08:54 AM   #8
Licensed
cbrider's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
From: puyallup

I Ride: 99 kawasaki zrx1100, 07 cb250 nighthawk, 84 cb650sc nighthawk
bomb cans use old school lacquer. do like 6-8 coats that are just wet enough to not look dry and let it dry till it doesnt indent with a fingernal. then wet sand with 1000 to knock down the orange peel then do 3-4 wet coats but dont run it, then let it dry really good. wet sand 1500 2000 then buff. it will look really good. Or do it the easy way and buy some cheap 2k clear and a harbor freight gun or spray max 2k spray cans that wesco carries works really good for small parts. using a catylized product will give you a very durable and glossy oem like finish.

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Old 07-15-2012, 09:14 AM   #9
Novice Racer
Andy Capp's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2010
From: Marysville, WA

I Ride: 08 675, 72 XL250, 93 PW80, 80 GS250
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrider View Post
bomb cans use old school lacquer. do like 6-8 coats that are just wet enough to not look dry and let it dry till it doesnt indent with a fingernal. then wet sand with 1000 to knock down the orange peel then do 3-4 wet coats but dont run it, then let it dry really good. wet sand 1500 2000 then buff. it will look really good. Or do it the easy way and buy some cheap 2k clear and a harbor freight gun or spray max 2k spray cans that wesco carries works really good for small parts. using a catylized product will give you a very durable and glossy oem like finish.
on Spray max 2k. I did my track fairings and tank with 3? Cans. It was thinner than I would have liked but I don't have a gun. Cans add up quick and I didn't want to spend too much. 2.5 years later it still gets compliments

I would have thought you could carefully knock down what you've done without taking any colour (be real careful if you colour was thin!) and re-coat. Maybe 800gt? If you get the clear on well enough you can, prettify it with rubbing compound and wax, after a couple of weeks when it is really dry. A good shine (if that's your goal) will hide a few sins.

I'm not expert either but I did make loads of mistakes to learn from. Travis gave a good tip. The can needs to be at least ~70 degrees to spray well. I used the warm water trick myself when it was too cold to be doing any kinnd of painting in my shed.

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