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		<title>PNW Riders - Blogs - Clackamas</title>
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		<description>Motorcycle rides and riders in Washington Oregon Idaho British Columbia</description>
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			<title>PNW Riders - Blogs - Clackamas</title>
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			<title>Part I: Camcorder and Bike Setup -- What Do I need?</title>
			<link>http://pnwriders.com/blogs/clackamas/222-part-i-camcorder-bike-setup-what-do-i-need.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 May 2008 06:08:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>In preparation for the May 31st, 2008 101 Loop, I have decided to setup my bike for fore and aft cameras.  I have an old 8mm Sony Handycam for the aft view and a MiniDV Canon Elura 100 for the forward view.   
 
I still need decent mounts to attach the camcorders to the bike; a cigarette lighter to attach to the Bikes power.  This will hopefully be used to power the Elura Directly.  If not, I have ordered 2 spare batteries (3 total at about 1.5 hours each) and I will rotate them through the car...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>In preparation for the May 31st, 2008 101 Loop, I have decided to setup my bike for fore and aft cameras.  I have an old 8mm Sony Handycam for the aft view and a MiniDV Canon Elura 100 for the forward view.  <br />
<br />
I still need decent mounts to attach the camcorders to the bike; a cigarette lighter to attach to the Bikes power.  This will hopefully be used to power the Elura Directly.  If not, I have ordered 2 spare batteries (3 total at about 1.5 hours each) and I will rotate them through the car charger.  The Handycam, interestingly enough, has batteries that that will last up to 16 hours.<br />
<br />
I am still on the fence about wide angle adapters recommended by <a href="http://www.pashnit.com" target="_blank">http://www.pashnit.com</a>.<br />
<br />
The Other thing to figure out is water proofing the setup in case it rains.  Oh, and extra blank tapes.<br />
<br />
Hopefully, I will have enough stuff 5/15/2008 to do an initial run and correct any running issues before the loop.  Stay tuned for the test run.</div>

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			<dc:creator>Clackamas</dc:creator>
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			<title>Tire and Breaks</title>
			<link>http://pnwriders.com/blogs/clackamas/207-tire-breaks.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 03 May 2008 23:47:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Today, I am writing for those, like me, who have been riding a relatively short time.  More experienced riders, will of course, instinctively know. 
 
I am still a relatively new rider.  I have 11 months / 11000 miles under my belt.  I pretty much rode rain/cold/whatever.  Since I started riding after my November - January sabbatical (crash repair), I have put 1100 miles in.  However, I notice I was less confident with the bike lately; then I realized my front tire was down to the 2/32 mark......</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Today, I am writing for those, like me, who have been riding a relatively short time.  More experienced riders, will of course, instinctively know.<br />
<br />
I am still a relatively new rider.  I have 11 months / 11000 miles under my belt.  I pretty much rode rain/cold/whatever.  Since I started riding after my November - January sabbatical (crash repair), I have put 1100 miles in.  However, I notice I was less confident with the bike lately; then I realized my front tire was down to the 2/32 mark... And breaking didn't seem as robust as I recalled.  Looking at the installed pads, I was near the clips, so obviously, at 10K it was time for a new tire and break.<br />
<br />
Today, I went to Downtown Harley to purchase new break pads and then when to Seattle Cycle Center to purchase a new tire and have them install the pads.  After about 1.5 hours and $240 dollars, I rode away with a new tire and break pads in place.<br />
<br />
Even though they are not yet worn in, I could tell an immediate difference.  My confidence is back and all is good.  The lesson here is to remember to check these items on your bike yourself, because the shops don't seem to want to sell you on repairs you need while selling  you repairs you don't need.  The deterioration of your tire and breaks is subtle -- as the performance slowly declines you grow a custom to this and they may not immediately recognize it is time for a service.  Tires and breaks, after all, are the most important pieces of equipment on your bike.</div>

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			<dc:creator>Clackamas</dc:creator>
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			<title>The Commute Route I Avoid: 520</title>
			<link>http://pnwriders.com/blogs/clackamas/167-commute-route-i-avoid-520.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 03 Apr 2008 17:48:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My commute to work for the past year has been from the Queen Anne area to the East side about 3 times a week (aprox 4000 miles @ 26milles * 3 * 52). 
 
My choices are Mercer to I-5 North to catch 520 east or I-5 South to the I-90 junction.  Coming home, its I-90 to I-5 North or 520 to I-5 South to the Seattle Center exit. 
 
Personally, I avoid 520.  Not just because it is  a 2-lane highway, but I truly despise the ingress/egress of 520 on the Seattle side.   The recent decision to put a toll...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My commute to work for the past year has been from the Queen Anne area to the East side about 3 times a week (aprox 4000 miles @ 26milles * 3 * 52).<br />
<br />
My choices are Mercer to I-5 North to catch 520 east or I-5 South to the I-90 junction.  Coming home, its I-90 to I-5 North or 520 to I-5 South to the Seattle Center exit.<br />
<br />
Personally, I avoid 520.  Not just because it is  a 2-lane highway, but I truly despise the ingress/egress of 520 on the Seattle side.   The recent decision to put a toll on that road really doesn't bother me because of the poor design of that highway:  Merging onto the highway, then crossing 4-5 lanes of traffic within a mile during moderate to heavy traffic doesn't leave me with a happy adrenaline rush.  Of the 520 merge/I-5 Crossings, the 520 to I-5 south bound merge to be the most tenuous: Two lanes from 520 ramp merging together then merging into I-5.<br />
<br />
I hope that all that money being raised by tolls will also fix the Seattle side of 520, but I am not terribly hopeful.</div>

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			<dc:creator>Clackamas</dc:creator>
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			<title>Repair of a Harley</title>
			<link>http://pnwriders.com/blogs/clackamas/154-repair-harley.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 25 Mar 2008 22:26:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Purchased on 1/28/2007, My 2007 XL1200C Sportster is my first bike.   I had taken and passed the MSF riders course in August 2006 with 90 on the written / 95 on the ridding. 
 
As many of you know, I went down on 10/30/2007 after my first 9183 miles of ridding.   I was wearing full gear and rode away from the accident with a minor headache and minor gear rash and a couple of bruises.   So, there was not any need for me to have repairs.  The bike, however, need some major work. 
 
The bike went...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Purchased on 1/28/2007, My 2007 XL1200C Sportster is my first bike.   I had taken and passed the MSF riders course in August 2006 with 90 on the written / 95 on the ridding.<br />
<br />
As many of you know, I went down on 10/30/2007 after my first 9183 miles of ridding.   I was wearing full gear and rode away from the accident with a minor headache and minor gear rash and a couple of bruises.   So, there was not any need for me to have repairs.  The bike, however, need some major work.<br />
<br />
The bike went down on the exhaust side (right side / starboard side) of the bike.  The engine guard (aka crash bar) protected the engine as designed.   The engine guard attaches to cross members welded to the frame -- one lower one and upper one.  When the bike went down, the right side of the frame acted as a fulcrum and the leverage applied pulled out the left side of the lower cross member.  The welds had cracks and the embedded bolt had been dislodged on the left side of the frame.<br />
<br />
Two recommendations to replace the frame resulted in GEICO agreeing the frame replacement.  It took Harley about 3 weeks to produce a new frame with an identical VIN to the original.  Producing a second frame with the same VIN is a standard practice and obviously means I retain a clean title :)  The frame itself was about 29% of the total repair costs.<br />
<br />
In addition, the exhaust pipes, handle bars, break handle, break peddle, wheel drive sprocket (didn't hear why, just know it was replaced), rear blinker assembly were replaced.  The rear fender had a scratch repaired.<br />
<br />
Some minor warranty repairs -- rocker box leak, leak around the clutch cable -- were done as well. <br />
<br />
It took approximately 3 months for the bike to get repaired and I have put about 800 miles since getting it back the 1st week of February.  Thanks Downtown Harley!</div>

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			<dc:creator>Clackamas</dc:creator>
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