I've been running 20 50 part synthetic oil ever since I've had this bike. It now has about 40k on the odo. Just before my last oil change (less than 500 miles ago) my oil light would intermittently come on, despite that the bike had the proper oil level.
So I changed the oil, using again 20 50. I skipped the filter this time because I did it last time.
The bike never seems to get up to temp (fully... like it did in the summer time) It get's up to temp enough that it runs fine without the choke, but never really above 60 degrees C on the temp gauge. And the oil light will still intermittently come on. It usually stays on for a few minutes, and then goes back off.
I'm wondering if during the colder months I should run a thinner oil. But, funny thing, this never happened last winter.
Okay, thanks in advance. ]]>
We are working on creating a section on our website where we will post various charts showing performance gains before and after misc modifications.
This chart is from an 07 S4RS stock and then with DP full system, DP ECU and PC3 custom map Marty made. This is one of the more impressive overall gains in performance from exhaust and PC3 we have seen so far. Even with the DP ECU it still didn't run to it's potential and the air fuel ratios where all over the place. The PC3 smoothed out the A/F ratio and will substantially improve driveability.
We have over 500 individual files on different Ducati's and over 9,000 Ducati runs all together. We have the experience to make the most out of your performance modifications.
thought we would try and show a bit more about this.. What we strive to do is look for driveablity throughout the rev range. Here are 3 charts and you can see that the red line is right about at 13% on the air fuel ratio right across the map on each cylinder once Marty built the dual map. The black line is the results with the pipes and the DP ECU after initial installation. Big improvements were made with the addition of the PC3! can't put up a comparable stock chart as you can't read each cylinder with the stock pipes.
First chart is at 60% throttle
Second chart is at 80%
Third is at 100% throttle
Quote:
 Ducati Seattle brings you HP ALLEY With the help of our friends from Fang Merchants, Ducati Seattle has put together a top level Dyno test facility to serve the needs of our customers. We have installed a Superflow Technologies CycleDyn Motorcycle Dynamometer in a Sound Master soundproof test cell. With this new technology we can accurately diagnose poor running conditions and overall state of tune of most any motorcycle or scooter as well as being able to elevate your motorcycle or scooter to it’s optimum performance. We are able to modify* the mapping of your fuel injected motorcycle with the installation of Power Commander PC3, Nemesis ECU or one of the many other aftermarket products available. Call us today for more information or to schedule some Dyno time for your machine! *Any motorcycle modifications done to the emissions or related items will be performed for off highway use only. |
Needless to say, it's really annoying to have to add 10-15mph (and not be 100% sure which it should be) every time I glance at the speedometer.
Anyone know how to calibrate it? At first I thought just pull the needle off and put it on at the right spot, but when I tried that on the old speedo, I just bent the metal - I couldn't get the needle off. ]]>
I have a question...........
Does anybody know what the tachometer drive ratio, and speedometer ratio is for a 1980 Suzuki GS750?
I found a set of gauges that i want to use, but i don't know if they will be accurate with my bike.
The new tach ratio is 1=1:4 (i don't think that is written right, but right off of specs), and the speedo is 2240 rpm=60mph
or do you know how i can find this stuff out?
Thanks! ]]>
what do I look for? or how to tell if it's safe?
I used some of this to clean the wheels...and wow!!! didn't even need to scrub anything...sprayed on, let set of a min or so and washed off...so I was wondering if it's safe for O-Rings.
PRODUCT INFO CLICKLY ]]>
So I was wondering what other swingarms will fit my 04. I thought to keep it simple and go with an 04 R1. But i have no experience in this field..
So please to those of you that have tried this or thought about it at least. Thanks. ]]>
I'm somewhat analytical..so I looked at my tire history, and since I don't think my riding style has changed during the last two sets, I'm comparing Qualifiers and BT016's. Here's what I came up with:
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Qualifiers; 2,622 miles including one (140 mile) trackday.
Front had 2/32nds left to the wearbars center and side.
Rear was toast.
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Most recent; BT016's, 2148 miles as of now;
Front has 0/32nds to wearbars on sides
2/32nds to wearbars on center
Rear has 2/32nds to wearbar on sides
1/32nds to wearbar on center.(Duh... healthy torque, that I enjoy using)
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The Qualifiers are more cheese. But if you do the math...they still net more miles per dollar.
Am I the only one seeing drastic differences between the two tires? ]]>
So this will be my first winter with a bike and I'm not curious about how to winterize my bike (there are plenty of threads for that) but rather on when?
I ask because lately I am riding it like once a week and wanted to make sure that I wasn't causing it any harm by having it just sit there. That or if I was suppose to do something in between that riding period (e.g. keep it on the battery tender, etc.).
How long could or should I go without having to worry about something? Like if I know or could predict that I won't ride it for a month (for example), should I winterize it until I can ride it consistently?
Thanks! ]]>
Rob
]]>http://www.vacuummate.com/
Looks like i don't have to pay somebody to do it anymore!:mfclap::mfclap::mfclap: ]]>
AND ONE OF THE O RING I USED...
Question though..has anyone used a PC to lessen the amount of fuel? im getting a lot of backfire and fuel spitting out..any other ideas on this?:scratchea ]]>
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
Anybody have/used one of these? I know there's better, but as far as budget goes, this is it. I will already have to change the wiring and breaker in the garage to handle a 20 amp load. And yes, wire feed is the way I'm going. No stick for me! Lol. It seems like a nice little machine to do small jobs with thin gauge and sheet metal, etc.
Any input on this? without telling me about some $1000 welder that's better?
Thanks! ]]>
-Shelly ]]>
-Jake ]]>