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Old 10-29-2009, 11:29 AM   #1
Streetfighter
 
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Joined: May 2007
From: mo mo land

I Ride: 2008 GSX-R 600
Crossthreaded bolt
So when i changed my oil last, i had to take my frame sliders off to remove the fairing obviously. when i was putting the frame slider bolt back in on the left side, it got down to the point when it was getting fairly snug and started to stop wrenching. when i saw that there was a bigger gap from the bike to the frame slider, i realized it wasnt in there right. i tired to back it out slowly and easily to fix it but it wont back out past a certain point. i have never had to remove a cross threaded bolt before and i need to get it out if i ever want to change the oil again lol. if i did drill out the center of the bolt how would i be able to back it out? thanks for any input
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:47 AM   #2
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Joined: Apr 2006
From: Seattle, WA

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Heat the thing the bolt is in and try again. Go slow, but the damage is already done. If this is an engine mount bolt, I'd take it to a pro to have them repair it. If it's not, you can try to run a tap through the threads and buy a new bolt. If that doesn't do it, you'll need a timesert or drill it out to the next size up.
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:49 AM   #3
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If it's not seized, DO NOT heat it. Acquire a left handed drill bit and a tool called an EZ Out. Total cost should be less than $20 at any auto parts store. However, this method is typically used when the bolt head is stripped. If the head is NOT stripped and will not unscrew you may only need to insert a small pry-bar under the bold head and gently lift while turning so as to allow the threads to grip again and unscrew the bolt.

Then you need to determine if the female threads are repairable (prolly not) with a tap or thread chaser. But, you will most likely need a product called Heli-Coil (or Perma-Coil), instructions on package, easy to use. Match the set to your slider bolt. Prolly another $20. All you need is a variable speed drill and tap handle (or Vise-Grips).

I've done this several times in both steel and aluminum. Not difficult, just follow the simple instructions on the package.

Good luck
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:10 PM   #4
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Joined: Aug 2008
From: Kennewick, WA

I Ride: 06 SV650S
i would start by getting a case of beer, thats my .02
.
.
.
.
thats all


drill it out and put a timesert in it maybe? im not a pro though
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:17 PM   #5
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I Ride: Ducati 900SS, Honda 650L supermotar'd, Honda CRF150R, Norton Commando (chopped), Kawi zx-6, Harley Sportster (1250), Harley StreetRod
Bring it over. I'll fix it for you.
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:28 PM   #6
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I Ride: 03 Are See fiddy one, 05 DRZ400SM, 95 FZR1040, 69 Combat Commando Roadster, 73 Commando Interstate, 67 BSA B44, 71 BSA B50
You might want to think about stopping fucking with it now instead of just pissing off the machinist you're going to be taking it to.
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:47 PM   #7
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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer1951 View Post
You might want to think about stopping fucking with it now instead of just pissing off the machinist you're going to be taking it to.
heard that.
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:53 PM   #8
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Joined: May 2007
From: mo mo land

I Ride: 2008 GSX-R 600
lol i haven't touched it since the day i changed the oil and put the bolt back in. the head is not stripped, and it is a mount bolt.......the frame sliders were the cut set so its not a bracket. i would bring it to someone in a heartbeat but im in utah..... so sorry lizi. i may just take it to a machinist but i wanted to see if there were some other at home methods that i would be able to attempt without completely fucking myself
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:58 PM   #9
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From: Roofies - putting the sensual back into consensual

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If you can pry on it from the backside and use a drill or impact to try and back it out.

If it works tap it and your done.

If you fuck it up more......See dragracers post.
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:02 PM   #10
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From: Spokane Valley

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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by blueline15 View Post
i would start by getting a case of beer...
Start with this...

“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizi_wesson View Post
Bring it over. I'll fix it for you.
Then try this (or another reliable shop in UT)...

“ Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer1951 View Post
You might want to think about stopping fucking with it now instead of just pissing off the machinist you're going to be taking it to.
And avoid this, for sure!



KevinD
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:05 PM   #11
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I Ride: SV650, DR650, LIFAN GY-5, VFR700
Hit it with a hammer.

Edit: Might save yourself some money getting just the insert rather than a whole "kit" might not need the counter bore tool etc.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=49vwxd
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Last edited by El_Diablo; 10-29-2009 at 01:12 PM..
 
Old 10-29-2009, 01:16 PM   #12
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Joined: Aug 2009
From: Oak Harbor, Wa

I Ride: 04 R6
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by skistud17 View Post
lol i haven't touched it since the day i changed the oil and put the bolt back in. the head is not stripped, and it is a mount bolt.......the frame sliders were the cut set so its not a bracket. i would bring it to someone in a heartbeat but im in utah..... so sorry lizi. i may just take it to a machinist but i wanted to see if there were some other at home methods that i would be able to attempt without completely fucking myself
Hey bro not trying to throw out titles or anything but im an airframe mechanic in the navy and i deal with this stiuation every day (on jets though). take monsters advice and go buy an EZ Out kit. that kit has everything you need to take that bolt out. you might need a hammer and a pair of vise grips also but it will take that bolt right the hell out.

I going to be the first to say this but pretty much monster is going the right direction.
I would talk to him or I and you'll be good
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:30 PM   #13
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Every time I hear "heli-coil" I secretly cringe.
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:35 PM   #14
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From: Roofies - putting the sensual back into consensual

I Ride: like an asshole
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by GixxerTek View Post
Every time I hear "heli-coil" I secretly cringe.
That

And "EZ Out", if it snaps have fun drilling it out.

PS my rear brake is still fubar
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:01 PM   #15
Timberline Motorsports
 
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Joined: Feb 2008
From: leavenworth/peshastin, washington

I Ride: Ducati 900SS, Honda 650L supermotar'd, Honda CRF150R, Norton Commando (chopped), Kawi zx-6, Harley Sportster (1250), Harley StreetRod
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by skistud17 View Post
so sorry lizi. i may just take it to a machinist but i wanted to see if there were some other at home methods that i would be able to attempt without completely fucking myself
a machinist or a bike shop can help.

I own a bike shop and I see this all the time. So does dragracer..thats why we both said the same. No easy way.
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:03 PM   #16
Timberline Motorsports
 
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Joined: Feb 2008
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I Ride: Ducati 900SS, Honda 650L supermotar'd, Honda CRF150R, Norton Commando (chopped), Kawi zx-6, Harley Sportster (1250), Harley StreetRod
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by GixxerTek View Post
Every time I hear "heli-coil" I secretly cringe.
same goes for Gixxertek. We all deal with this as shop owners.
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:06 PM   #17
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<dick comment>Taking your time and not cross threading bolts to start with will always save you time in the long run. </dick comment>
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Old 10-29-2009, 02:26 PM   #18
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Joined: May 2007
From: mo mo land

I Ride: 2008 GSX-R 600
thanks guys, and girl, for the advice. this is the first time i have cross threaded a bolt like this. i will see about the ez out but if it feels like its not going to come out at all or im going to damage something else, i will just take it to someone who does this for a living. thanks again i really appreciate it
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:19 PM   #19
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Kennewick, Washington

I Ride: '08 Ducati 848 street , '03 R6 race (for sale), '07 R6 race
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by vville123 View Post
That

And "EZ Out", if it snaps have fun drilling it out.

PS my rear brake is still fubar
on drilling out an Easy Out. They are a hardened steel. You will need a carbide drill to drill into it. Go ahead and try that by hand and you'll get to replace the carbide drill as well.

I'd say stop where you are and take it to someone. If the bolt is still moving its not that bad YET.

Or dont and a lot of us will laugh and say "I told you so". Not to your face of course. Cuz that would be rude.
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:27 PM   #20
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Joined: Jan 2007
From: Vancouver, Washington

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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by el_diablo View Post
<dick comment>taking your time and not cross threading bolts to start with will always save you time in the long run. </dick comment>
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:20 PM   #21
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From: Winthrop, WA
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Just to clarify, for those who don't really understand what is going on...the bolt turns and the head is not stripped...therefor there will be no EZ Out...
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:30 PM   #22
Superbiker
 
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Port Angeles WA

I Ride: 2007 ZX-10R SE, 2005 450 EXC, 1980 GS750 Cafe Project
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer1951 View Post
You might want to think about stopping fucking with it now instead of just pissing off the machinist you're going to be taking it to.
Lol, you wanna get 3 studs out of a head for me?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:32 PM   #23
Superbiker
 
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Port Angeles WA

I Ride: 2007 ZX-10R SE, 2005 450 EXC, 1980 GS750 Cafe Project
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by elpasocody View Post
Hey bro not trying to throw out titles or anything but im an airframe mechanic in the navy and i deal with this stiuation every day (on jets though). take monsters advice and go buy an EZ Out kit. that kit has everything you need to take that bolt out. you might need a hammer and a pair of vise grips also but it will take that bolt right the hell out.

I going to be the first to say this but pretty much monster is going the right direction.
I would talk to him or I and you'll be good
I hope there aren't too many f-18's flying around with heli-coils

Lol, just messin with ya!
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:20 PM   #24
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Joined: Oct 2005
From: CENTRAL

I Ride: When I can
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinD View Post
Start with this...


Then try this (or another reliable shop in UT)...

And avoid this, for sure!



KevinD
Well Played, Sir!
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