| | #1 |
| Streetfighter Joined: May 2007 From: mo mo land I Ride: 2008 GSX-R 600 | Crossthreaded bolt So when i changed my oil last, i had to take my frame sliders off to remove the fairing obviously. when i was putting the frame slider bolt back in on the left side, it got down to the point when it was getting fairly snug and started to stop wrenching. when i saw that there was a bigger gap from the bike to the frame slider, i realized it wasnt in there right. i tired to back it out slowly and easily to fix it but it wont back out past a certain point. i have never had to remove a cross threaded bolt before and i need to get it out if i ever want to change the oil again lol. if i did drill out the center of the bolt how would i be able to back it out? thanks for any input |
|
| |
| | |
| | #2 |
| Pit Crew Joined: Apr 2006 From: Seattle, WA I Ride: Too many | Heat the thing the bolt is in and try again. Go slow, but the damage is already done. If this is an engine mount bolt, I'd take it to a pro to have them repair it. If it's not, you can try to run a tap through the threads and buy a new bolt. If that doesn't do it, you'll need a timesert or drill it out to the next size up. |
|
| |
| | #3 |
| WMRRA Qualifier | If it's not seized, DO NOT heat it. Acquire a left handed drill bit and a tool called an EZ Out. Total cost should be less than $20 at any auto parts store. However, this method is typically used when the bolt head is stripped. If the head is NOT stripped and will not unscrew you may only need to insert a small pry-bar under the bold head and gently lift while turning so as to allow the threads to grip again and unscrew the bolt. Then you need to determine if the female threads are repairable (prolly not) with a tap or thread chaser. But, you will most likely need a product called Heli-Coil (or Perma-Coil), instructions on package, easy to use. Match the set to your slider bolt. Prolly another $20. All you need is a variable speed drill and tap handle (or Vise-Grips). I've done this several times in both steel and aluminum. Not difficult, just follow the simple instructions on the package. Good luck |
|
| |
| | #5 |
| Timberline Motorsports ![]() Joined: Feb 2008 From: leavenworth/peshastin, washington I Ride: Ducati 900SS, Honda 650L supermotar'd, Honda CRF150R, Norton Commando (chopped), Kawi zx-6, Harley Sportster (1250), Harley StreetRod | Bring it over. I'll fix it for you. |
|
| |
| | #6 |
| MotoGP Champion Joined: Sep 2005 From: Bremerton I Ride: 03 Are See fiddy one, 05 DRZ400SM, 95 FZR1040, 69 Combat Commando Roadster, 73 Commando Interstate, 67 BSA B44, 71 BSA B50 | You might want to think about stopping fucking with it now instead of just pissing off the machinist you're going to be taking it to. |
|
| |
| | #7 |
| Timberline Motorsports ![]() Joined: Feb 2008 From: leavenworth/peshastin, washington I Ride: Ducati 900SS, Honda 650L supermotar'd, Honda CRF150R, Norton Commando (chopped), Kawi zx-6, Harley Sportster (1250), Harley StreetRod | ![]() ![]() |
|
| |
| | #8 |
| Streetfighter Joined: May 2007 From: mo mo land I Ride: 2008 GSX-R 600 | lol i haven't touched it since the day i changed the oil and put the bolt back in. the head is not stripped, and it is a mount bolt.......the frame sliders were the cut set so its not a bracket. i would bring it to someone in a heartbeat but im in utah..... so sorry lizi. i may just take it to a machinist but i wanted to see if there were some other at home methods that i would be able to attempt without completely fucking myself |
|
| |
| | #9 |
| Zone Head Joined: May 2009 From: Roofies - putting the sensual back into consensual I Ride: like an asshole | If you can pry on it from the backside and use a drill or impact to try and back it out. If it works tap it and your done. If you fuck it up more......See dragracers post. |
|
| |
| | #10 |
| Zone Head Joined: Mar 2009 From: Spokane Valley I Ride: Suzuki Boulevard C90, Honda CM250C, My Wife's Scooter | Start with this... Then try this (or another reliable shop in UT)... ![]() ![]() KevinD |
|
| |
| | #11 |
| Superbiker Joined: May 2007 From: SEATTLE I Ride: SV650, DR650, LIFAN GY-5, VFR700 | Hit it with a hammer. Edit: Might save yourself some money getting just the insert rather than a whole "kit" might not need the counter bore tool etc. http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=49vwxd Last edited by El_Diablo; 10-29-2009 at 01:12 PM.. |
|
| |
| | #12 | |
| Training Wheels Joined: Aug 2009 From: Oak Harbor, Wa I Ride: 04 R6 | ![]()
I going to be the first to say this but pretty much monster is going the right direction. ![]() I would talk to him or I and you'll be good | |
|
| ||
| | #14 |
| Zone Head Joined: May 2009 From: Roofies - putting the sensual back into consensual I Ride: like an asshole | That And "EZ Out", if it snaps have fun drilling it out. PS my rear brake is still fubar |
|
| |
| | #15 |
| Timberline Motorsports ![]() Joined: Feb 2008 From: leavenworth/peshastin, washington I Ride: Ducati 900SS, Honda 650L supermotar'd, Honda CRF150R, Norton Commando (chopped), Kawi zx-6, Harley Sportster (1250), Harley StreetRod | ![]() I own a bike shop and I see this all the time. So does dragracer..thats why we both said the same. No easy way. |
|
| |
| | #16 |
| Timberline Motorsports ![]() Joined: Feb 2008 From: leavenworth/peshastin, washington I Ride: Ducati 900SS, Honda 650L supermotar'd, Honda CRF150R, Norton Commando (chopped), Kawi zx-6, Harley Sportster (1250), Harley StreetRod | same goes for Gixxertek. We all deal with this as shop owners. |
|
| |
| | #17 |
| Superbiker Joined: May 2007 From: SEATTLE I Ride: SV650, DR650, LIFAN GY-5, VFR700 | <dick comment>Taking your time and not cross threading bolts to start with will always save you time in the long run. </dick comment> |
|
| |
| | #18 |
| Streetfighter Joined: May 2007 From: mo mo land I Ride: 2008 GSX-R 600 | thanks guys, and girl, for the advice. this is the first time i have cross threaded a bolt like this. i will see about the ez out but if it feels like its not going to come out at all or im going to damage something else, i will just take it to someone who does this for a living. thanks again i really appreciate it |
|
| |
| | #19 |
| Superbiker Joined: Apr 2007 From: Kennewick, Washington I Ride: '08 Ducati 848 street , '03 R6 race (for sale), '07 R6 race | ![]() on drilling out an Easy Out. They are a hardened steel. You will need a carbide drill to drill into it. Go ahead and try that by hand and you'll get to replace the carbide drill as well. I'd say stop where you are and take it to someone. If the bolt is still moving its not that bad YET. Or dont and a lot of us will laugh and say "I told you so". Not to your face of course. Cuz that would be rude. |
|
| |
| | #20 |
| WMRRA Qualifier Joined: Jan 2007 From: Vancouver, Washington I Ride: CBR600RR | ![]() ![]() |
|
| |
| | #21 |
| WMRRA Qualifier | Just to clarify, for those who don't really understand what is going on...the bolt turns and the head is not stripped...therefor there will be no EZ Out... |
|
| |
| | #22 |
| Superbiker Joined: Apr 2007 From: Port Angeles WA I Ride: 2007 ZX-10R SE, 2005 450 EXC, 1980 GS750 Cafe Project | Lol, you wanna get 3 studs out of a head for me?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? |
|
| |
| | #23 | |
| Superbiker Joined: Apr 2007 From: Port Angeles WA I Ride: 2007 ZX-10R SE, 2005 450 EXC, 1980 GS750 Cafe Project | ![]()
![]() Lol, just messin with ya! | |
|
| ||
| | #24 |
| Track School Dazed ![]() Joined: Oct 2005 From: CENTRAL I Ride: When I can | ![]() ![]() |
|
| |
![]() |
|
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |