PNW Riders

Devil_Doc · 03-09-2010, 10:00 AM

So I just got my CBR, and i'm looking for frame sliders. In my research, i've found some really interesting/troubling things. There is a school of thought that frame sliders can cause more damage in a crash from "digging in" while a bike is sliding and possibly making a bike flip, causing more damage. There is also the opinion that sliders (especially no-cut types on an offset flange) can potentially put undue stress on the frame due to the leverage and twisting that sliders can cause. I've always made frame sliders the first thing I buy when I get a bike. Now i'm wondering if i'm just fooling myself into believing that a slider can save the bike in a crash, or at least mitigate the damage? I started thinking about it, and all I can come up with is that if I wreck at a high enough speed (above 40mph or so), the bike is pretty well done anyway, unless I get really lucky.

So my questions are....

Do sliders actually work at any kind of speed, or are they only good for slow speed drops?

Does it make a difference if you use the sliders on an offset? Specifically, "no-cut" styled types.

Does the composition of the slider matter? Delrin or Fiberglass vs Steel?

I understand that the sliders will pretty much pay for themselves if a slow speed drop, so thats not really what i'm asking. Thanks...

dwschultzy · 03-09-2010, 10:09 AM

check out any of the cbr forums about how the offset/no cut sliders can cause problems for your specific type of bike
iirc.....and dont quote me on this....but, the "no cut" sliders for the cbr1krr can bend and and break off an engine component that you will need to drop the motor in order to fix....with just a minor low speed "drop"
not worth it just for a hole in some plastics if you ask me

the argument for sliders is one that's real similar to rolling the dice.....either side of the argument can show cases where it was benificial to either having or not having them

the ones that i've personally seen work the best is the shorter sliders vs the long sliders along with rigid rear sets and aftermarket case covers for actual over all "protection"

james1300 · 03-09-2010, 10:17 AM

All my sport bikes have them. Except for my old '88 GSXR1100 (If I could find a set for it, they would be on)!
The 'Tip-over protection' in the driveway is why I got them.
They have paid for themselves too many times. (Once was enough)

erickb · 03-09-2010, 10:21 AM

I have NEVER used sliders and NEVER will! Get insurance if you are scared of crashing and or droping your bike or get a motard

recr8ton · 03-09-2010, 10:25 AM

I've been through two left side low sides on the street and one right side on the track...the sliders worked everytime, the rear spool on the last left side one however, sheered right off even with the swing arm.

FuNCHun · 03-09-2010, 10:38 AM

They do work at higher speeds however I believe a lot of race bikes have sliders on the inside of the fairings to prevent catching an edge. And no cut sliders won't do you much good in anything more than a driveway tipover. I've seen a few break.

As for material, I've always used softer materials like delrin. I've also heard of people buying skateboard wheels, turning them down and using those instead. Not sure what they're made of. Harder materials are more prone to catching small edges and don't have any give.

FuNCHun · 03-09-2010, 10:39 AM

Steel = bad idea

Dubnut · 03-09-2010, 11:13 AM

Use the delrin spools if you can... I have had my bike slide down the street before and the delrin spools I was using saved me from a lot more damage.

The steel or aluminum ones look good but the problem is they don't slide on concrete.... They dig in and either snap off or like you said, flip the bike over. The purpose isn't to get the bike to stop sliding it's to decrease damage... So if it's sliding on a spool that's better than sliding on plastics..

I've used them and had them work well for me... It's personal preference, but if you're getting a set go delrin, and long or short dosen't make that much difference for delrin either, the longer ones just have more mat'l to grind off.

.02

dwschultzy · 03-09-2010, 11:20 AM

Originally Posted by Dubnut

and long or short dosen't make that much difference for delrin either

i'd argue this statement with the fact that when you use a longer slider.....you're creating a larger/stronger fulcrum point, making it that much easier to grab and either snap off or flip the bike

longer sliders are bad imo
sliders are not designed to protect plastics.....but designed to "slide"

you put anything further out from a surface your trying to protect......its going to have adverse effects when opposing forces are applied

Lone Rider · 03-09-2010, 11:22 AM

I have the LSL on my 14. Do lots of research for your bike. Cheap ones break my frame-engine mounts. Cheap ones saved my buddies 650r twice and once it tumbled. You need to find out for your scoot what works.
Figure a high speed get off will trash your bike with or without them. I dismounted my 600 at the track at 120. They helped save frame grinding but race fairing was trashed.
They are great for parking lot drops or low speed wash outs. You will find out what works checking a couple of forums as dw mentioned.
Enjoy that new toy!!

theJrod · 03-09-2010, 11:27 AM

No-cut sliders tend to bend, and can bend into and hit engine cases. I would avoid them.

I have Evotech sliders on my race bike. They have worked great in two crashes - one was a very low-speed highside (before it was a race bike), and the other was a medium-speed lowside. The sliders prevented a fair amount of damage in both cases.

DullJack · 03-09-2010, 11:27 AM

My 1098 has sliders under the plastics, with the theory that if I do lay it down at speed, I'll lose the plastics, but by the time the asphalt wears away the plastics and the slider underneath the bike will have stopped thus saving the motor and frame. I'm hoping to never have to put this theory to test, but for my .02 it's sounds good.

On the R6, I have the stick out LSLs steel sliders that poke out a good 3 inches past the fairings and I'm pretty sure if I lay that down at speed it's either going to rip the engine into confetti or the bike is going to launch down the road like it was thrown from a trebuchet. But they have saved me some money on drops.

Lone Rider · 03-09-2010, 11:39 AM

I think you will be surprised how good those LSLs are DullJack. Hope you never find out. Did tons of research and seen many wreck photos. Obviously I liked what I saw, I bought them.

"Thrown from a trebuchet" thats some funny pumkinchunkin shit right there

DullJack · 03-09-2010, 11:44 AM

Originally Posted by Lone Rider

I think you will be surprised how good those LSLs are DullJack. Hope you never find out. Did tons of research and seen many wreck photos. Obviously I liked what I saw, I bought them.

"Thrown from a trebuchet" thats some funny pumkinchunkin shit right there

I'm just a little leery of something that sticks out that far, as was mentioned before the whole physics of the thing just doesn't sound right...especially since they are mounted directly to the engine, the block was never designed to take that kind of shearing force. But since they are the mushroom-head kind, someday I'll be able to claim my bike mushroomed-stamped a road.

Devil_Doc · 03-09-2010, 12:09 PM

Originally Posted by erickb

I have NEVER used sliders and NEVER will! Get insurance if you are scared of crashing and or droping your bike or get a motard

But, I like girls.

Originally Posted by DullJack

My 1098 has sliders under the plastics, with the theory that if I do lay it down at speed, I'll lose the plastics, but by the time the asphalt wears away the plastics and the slider underneath the bike will have stopped thus saving the motor and frame. I'm hoping to never have to put this theory to test, but for my .02 it's sounds good.

On the R6, I have the stick out LSLs steel sliders that poke out a good 3 inches past the fairings and I'm pretty sure if I lay that down at speed it's either going to rip the engine into confetti or the bike is going to launch down the road like it was thrown from a trebuchet. But they have saved me some money on drops.

Rep for using Trebuchet in a sentence. lol..

Can anyone reccomend one brand over another? I had delrin t-rex sliders on my hawk, and they seemed well built. Never tested them though..

Hayaku · 03-09-2010, 12:14 PM

Maybe these aren't what you're looking for:

Sliders

Devil_Doc · 03-09-2010, 12:59 PM

Originally Posted by Hayaku

Maybe these aren't what you're looking for:

Sliders

lol.. OMG, do those come with Icon 24kt gloves and a chrome nazi helmet?

Dubnut · 03-09-2010, 01:09 PM

Originally Posted by dwschultzy

i'd argue this statement with the fact that when you use a longer slider.....you're creating a larger/stronger fulcrum point, making it that much easier to grab and either snap off or flip the bike

longer sliders are bad imo
sliders are not designed to protect plastics.....but designed to "slide"

you put anything further out from a surface your trying to protect......its going to have adverse effects when opposing forces are applied

The only reason I say this is that I've used the longer sliders in a crash and had no problems.. went down @ 65mph and the longer slider never caught or dug in. It behaved like it was supposed to and wore down until the bike had shed enough speed that it caught and used itself as a pivot, turning the bike on the slider in one spot....

Different people have had different things happen... I've been lucky with my choices.

Gotama · 03-09-2010, 02:13 PM

ive got motovation frame sliders no cut for my 08 cbr600rr
had to replace the left side twice not because the bracket snapped each time , but they still protected the bike even though they snapped
when talking with the rep , i asked if this was normal
they are designed to break better the bracket then the frame
just my two cents

Devil_Doc · 03-09-2010, 03:02 PM

Originally Posted by Gotama

ive got motovation frame sliders no cut for my 08 cbr600rr
had to replace the left side twice not because the bracket snapped each time , but they still protected the bike even though they snapped
when talking with the rep , i asked if this was normal
they are designed to break better the bracket then the frame
just my two cents

Why would having your bracket snap be a good thing? How would the slider work if it's not attached to the bike?

james1300 · 03-09-2010, 03:24 PM

Originally Posted by erickb

I have NEVER used sliders and NEVER will! Get insurance if you are scared of crashing and or droping your bike or get a motard

I disagree.
The deductable on my insurance (which I carry) is 5x times more expensive than than the most expensive sliders I own.
Besides, a Motard with saddle bag's would make my butt look fat. I dont need ANY help there!

mfrankpdx · 03-09-2010, 03:26 PM

I haven't bought sliders for my R1 yet (7,700 miles), and don't think I'm going to. I'm going to attack the problem at it's source - crashing. I don't need sliders if I don't crash.

Devil_Doc · 03-09-2010, 03:31 PM

All this being said.. What do you think the "best" slider for the money is? I had t-rex sliders on my hawk, but like I said, I never road tested them.

mfrankpdx · 03-09-2010, 03:46 PM

Originally Posted by Devil_Doc

All this being said.. What do you think the "best" slider for the money is? I had t-rex sliders on my hawk, but like I said, I never road tested them.

Woodcraft

james1300 · 03-09-2010, 03:47 PM

Originally Posted by Devil_Doc

All this being said.. What do you think the "best" slider for the money is? I had t-rex sliders on my hawk, but like I said, I never road tested them.

The least expensive Ive used and still like is 'Shogun'
I have some Very expensive (sliders) German made 'Moto Sliders', for my Triumph.
I went all out on that bike.
Frame, axel, swing arm, swing arm pivot, and front axel sliders. They WORKed

Replaced the damaged sliders and NOT the bike.
Only problem, they dont sell replacement parts. You have to buy complete kits.

Assisin · 03-09-2010, 04:21 PM

Woodcraft
Great supplemental insurance to my State Farm policy for when I go down because it will happen to everyone at some point in their riding career.

Devil_Doc · 03-09-2010, 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by Assisin

Woodcraft
Great supplemental insurance to my State Farm policy for when I go down because it will happen to everyone at some point in their riding career.

How do you mean?

Assisin · 03-09-2010, 06:09 PM

I guess I didn't phrase that properly. What I mean is that its pretty cheap to replace a slider compared to bike parts and I carry full coverage insurance which is less expensive than replacing the bike in case the sliders don"t save the bike.

dwschultzy · 03-09-2010, 06:14 PM

Originally Posted by mfrankpdx

I haven't bought sliders for my R1 yet (7,700 miles), and don't think I'm going to. I'm going to attack the problem at it's source - crashing. I don't need sliders if I don't crash.

this reminds me.....i've put 12k on mine in less than a year and sliders are something i have not done yet

Real Fast Travis · 03-09-2010, 06:21 PM

Since my recent low speed, lowside, I'vebeen looking into sliders, I like the Woodcraft, any sugestions on how to cut the hole acurately? Do they come with a template or something?

Assisin · 03-09-2010, 06:25 PM

I put the bracket on under the fairing then drew a circle around it with a sharpie and drilled a pilot hole in the center, then used a hole saw to finish with a wood block behind it. Less than 1/16th around puck!

dwschultzy · 03-09-2010, 06:27 PM

there are a few different methods travis

if/when you're ready....let me know
i work in the area you live in often.....i could stop by and lend a hand

Real Fast Travis · 03-09-2010, 06:33 PM

^^^^ Thanks guys, sounds good.

Ya, Donnie, if/when I get it out of the shop, I will hollar.

Thanks!

Assisin · 03-09-2010, 06:52 PM

This is how I did my woodcraft install. It work well. They send instructions for mounting locations specific to your bike with the sliders. Took about an hour and a half of actual work but an extra hour to get the nerve to drill the firs 2" hole in my plastics.
http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~sh...%20Sliders.pdf

JasonM · 03-09-2010, 07:19 PM

Unfortunately, I have tested the Motovation nocut frame sliders on my GSXR 750 three times. In the first case, I had a ~20mph highside on the street. The frame slider on the right side (bolt straight into the frame) took the brunt of the damage, and between it, my rigid footpeg, and bar end all other damage was only plastic. The bolt through the puck bent and the puck was worn down a bit. In the second case, I low-sided at full lean in turn 9 at Pacific. The bike slide all the way from the inside of the track to the dirt on the outside. the bolt through the left puck (screwed into a bracket that is bolted to the frame) bent and a lot of the puck wore off, but there was no damage to the frame/engine. In this case, my track fairings didn't even take damage. Just scraped barend, slider bolt and puck, footpeg (barely), and a big (cheap!) swingarm slider spool broke the spool mount off the swingarm. In the third case, I had a truck pull out in front of me and had to dodge off the road into the grass, getting the bike down to 15mph or so before the front slid out and I fell over. This time, there was barely any damage, even to the frame slider, from the bike sliding and bearing most of the weight on the side on the end of the slider (slide trench dug by it). The bolt did not bend in this case, presumably due to the lack of impact force.

Now.. the lesson that I got out of all of these crashes is simple. No-cut frame sliders, and frame sliders in general, work great as long as you don't go cheap. The better ones (like Motovation) cost more because more goes into development and materials. Frame slider bolts should bend (or break, I guess) before they transfer enough force to break what they're mounted to or get used as a lever to cause tumbling. In both hard crashes, the bolts in my Motovation frame sliders bent and needed to be replaced, but they protected the bike great. In the second, the bolt bent but the more expensive bracket did not, making it cheap to just replace the bolt and puck. My cheap swingarm sliders, that were probably using whatever stainless bolts were cheapest, broke the mount point before the bolt broke unfortunately. Needless to say, I did not make that mistake again.

crampants · 03-09-2010, 07:38 PM

jnicola · 03-09-2010, 07:53 PM

Yeah, I'm surprised no one mentioned crash cages yet. Those seem to be the BEST option out there! Kind of like the earlier mention of sliders UNDER the fairings, the whole point is to increase surface area, and slide on something a bit more sacrificable, and spread the area of impact out. In the case of sliding on plastics, they take the brunt of the damage, and the sliders from there distrbute the force. Sliding on just sliders reduces surface area.

Crash cages it would appear provides the most surface area, and gives your bike a full surface to slide on. When your bike goes down it's going to need at least one other point to slide on besides that slide.

These are all just my personal observations and beliefs though. All of my crash testing was without frame sliders.

Fast Eddie 919 · 03-09-2010, 07:55 PM

It does vary by bike model, I had carbon fiber sliders in my SV650S that worked great. my 919 I was told because of it's lack of a frame would break engine parts, so my clutch cover got rashed and the tank was destroyed when I crashed it. The LSL on my ZZR looks like it did it's job in terms of protecting the bike, it ended up bent back whereas the SV's CF slider just ground down.

step · 03-09-2010, 07:59 PM

Lowsided my '06 R6 with sliders on it, they did great until the tires grabbed and it barrel rolled (mid/lower fairings were good, tank/windscreen/front fairing not so good). I have always wondered if the slightly increased angle of the bike sliding on the sliders (picture bike on its side traveling tires first) caused the tires to grab and roll the bike, thus pretty much destroying it????

chaeric · 03-09-2010, 09:12 PM

Originally Posted by JasonM

Unfortunately, I have tested the Motovation nocut frame sliders on my GSXR 750 three times...

Thanks for the review. I've been thinking about getting those sliders...


03-09-2010, 10:00 AM	#1
Devil_Doc Superbiker Joined: Sep 2008 From: Kirkland via Dallas I Ride: 04 CBR 1000rr	Frame sliders in the real world.. So I just got my CBR, and i'm looking for frame sliders. In my research, i've found some really interesting/troubling things. There is a school of thought that frame sliders can cause more damage in a crash from "digging in" while a bike is sliding and possibly making a bike flip, causing more damage. There is also the opinion that sliders (especially no-cut types on an offset flange) can potentially put undue stress on the frame due to the leverage and twisting that sliders can cause. I've always made frame sliders the first thing I buy when I get a bike. Now i'm wondering if i'm just fooling myself into believing that a slider can save the bike in a crash, or at least mitigate the damage? I started thinking about it, and all I can come up with is that if I wreck at a high enough speed (above 40mph or so), the bike is pretty well done anyway, unless I get really lucky. So my questions are.... Do sliders actually work at any kind of speed, or are they only good for slow speed drops? Does it make a difference if you use the sliders on an offset? Specifically, "no-cut" styled types. Does the composition of the slider matter? Delrin or Fiberglass vs Steel? I understand that the sliders will pretty much pay for themselves if a slow speed drop, so thats not really what i'm asking. Thanks... __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 10:09 AM	#2
dwschultzy MotoGP Contender Joined: Nov 2007 From: right over there Blog Entries: 2 I Ride: various paved roads in warshington	check out any of the cbr forums about how the offset/no cut sliders can cause problems for your specific type of bike iirc.....and dont quote me on this....but, the "no cut" sliders for the cbr1krr can bend and and break off an engine component that you will need to drop the motor in order to fix....with just a minor low speed "drop" not worth it just for a hole in some plastics if you ask me the argument for sliders is one that's real similar to rolling the dice.....either side of the argument can show cases where it was benificial to either having or not having them the ones that i've personally seen work the best is the shorter sliders vs the long sliders along with rigid rear sets and aftermarket case covers for actual over all "protection" __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 10:17 AM	#3
james1300 Track School Dazed Joined: Oct 2005 From: CENTRAL I Ride: When I can	All my sport bikes have them. Except for my old '88 GSXR1100 (If I could find a set for it, they would be on)! The 'Tip-over protection' in the driveway is why I got them. They have paid for themselves too many times. (Once was enough) __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 10:21 AM	#4
erickb Mr. PNW Riders 2007 Joined: Jun 2005 From: classified Blog Entries: 2 I Ride: without gear	I have NEVER used sliders and NEVER will! Get insurance if you are scared of crashing and or droping your bike or get a motard __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 10:25 AM	#5
recr8ton MotoGP Contender Joined: Mar 2007 From: Portland/Beaverton I Ride: 2007 Yamaha R6s	I've been through two left side low sides on the street and one right side on the track...the sliders worked everytime, the rear spool on the last left side one however, sheered right off even with the swing arm. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter

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03-09-2010, 10:38 AM	#6
FuNCHun WMRRA Qualifier Joined: Feb 2007 From: Seattle, WA I Ride: '06 GSX-R 600 blue/wht	They do work at higher speeds however I believe a lot of race bikes have sliders on the inside of the fairings to prevent catching an edge. And no cut sliders won't do you much good in anything more than a driveway tipover. I've seen a few break. As for material, I've always used softer materials like delrin. I've also heard of people buying skateboard wheels, turning them down and using those instead. Not sure what they're made of. Harder materials are more prone to catching small edges and don't have any give. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 10:39 AM	#7
FuNCHun WMRRA Qualifier Joined: Feb 2007 From: Seattle, WA I Ride: '06 GSX-R 600 blue/wht	Steel = bad idea __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 11:13 AM	#8
Dubnut Superbiker Joined: Jul 2005 From: The Mad Scientists Workshop I Ride: 03 KTM 250 EXC; 20th anny GSX-R 750; 72 CL350 Scrambler; 77 Yamaha Champ; 87 VFR700 Interceptor Fighter Project; (not as often as I'd like to)	Use the delrin spools if you can... I have had my bike slide down the street before and the delrin spools I was using saved me from a lot more damage. The steel or aluminum ones look good but the problem is they don't slide on concrete.... They dig in and either snap off or like you said, flip the bike over. The purpose isn't to get the bike to stop sliding it's to decrease damage... So if it's sliding on a spool that's better than sliding on plastics.. I've used them and had them work well for me... It's personal preference, but if you're getting a set go delrin, and long or short dosen't make that much difference for delrin either, the longer ones just have more mat'l to grind off. .02 __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 11:22 AM	#10
Lone Rider Streetfighter Joined: Feb 2009 From: Pennisula backroads I Ride: 2006 ZX-14, future rat bike	I have the LSL on my 14. Do lots of research for your bike. Cheap ones break my frame-engine mounts. Cheap ones saved my buddies 650r twice and once it tumbled. You need to find out for your scoot what works. Figure a high speed get off will trash your bike with or without them. I dismounted my 600 at the track at 120. They helped save frame grinding but race fairing was trashed. They are great for parking lot drops or low speed wash outs. You will find out what works checking a couple of forums as dw mentioned. Enjoy that new toy!! __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 11:27 AM	#11
theJrod Joined: Feb 2006 From: Marysville, WA I Ride: Scooty Puff Sr: The Doom-Bringer!	No-cut sliders tend to bend, and can bend into and hit engine cases. I would avoid them. I have Evotech sliders on my race bike. They have worked great in two crashes - one was a very low-speed highside (before it was a race bike), and the other was a medium-speed lowside. The sliders prevented a fair amount of damage in both cases. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 11:27 AM	#12
DullJack Endorsed Joined: Jul 2009 From: Afghanistan I Ride: for Shiggles	My 1098 has sliders under the plastics, with the theory that if I do lay it down at speed, I'll lose the plastics, but by the time the asphalt wears away the plastics and the slider underneath the bike will have stopped thus saving the motor and frame. I'm hoping to never have to put this theory to test, but for my .02 it's sounds good. On the R6, I have the stick out LSLs steel sliders that poke out a good 3 inches past the fairings and I'm pretty sure if I lay that down at speed it's either going to rip the engine into confetti or the bike is going to launch down the road like it was thrown from a trebuchet. But they have saved me some money on drops. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 11:39 AM	#13
Lone Rider Streetfighter Joined: Feb 2009 From: Pennisula backroads I Ride: 2006 ZX-14, future rat bike	I think you will be surprised how good those LSLs are DullJack. Hope you never find out. Did tons of research and seen many wreck photos. Obviously I liked what I saw, I bought them. "Thrown from a trebuchet" thats some funny pumkinchunkin shit right there __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 12:14 PM	#16
Hayaku Endorsed Joined: Jul 2009 From: past the Y I Ride: upstream.	Maybe these aren't what you're looking for: Sliders __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 02:13 PM	#19
Gotama Superbiker Joined: Oct 2008 From: Kent, WA I Ride: Naked in the winter	ive got motovation frame sliders no cut for my 08 cbr600rr had to replace the left side twice not because the bracket snapped each time , but they still protected the bike even though they snapped when talking with the rep , i asked if this was normal they are designed to break better the bracket then the frame just my two cents __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 03:26 PM	#22
mfrankpdx Joined: Jul 2007 From: San Angelo, TX I Ride: '07 R1, '08 WR250X	I haven't bought sliders for my R1 yet (7,700 miles), and don't think I'm going to. I'm going to attack the problem at it's source - crashing. I don't need sliders if I don't crash. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 03:31 PM	#23
Devil_Doc Superbiker Joined: Sep 2008 From: Kirkland via Dallas I Ride: 04 CBR 1000rr	All this being said.. What do you think the "best" slider for the money is? I had t-rex sliders on my hawk, but like I said, I never road tested them. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 04:21 PM	#26
Assisin Training Wheels Joined: Jan 2010 From: Bellingham WA I Ride: 09' Ninja 650R (crashed and totaled), 75' RD350B (in pieces)	Woodcraft Great supplemental insurance to my State Farm policy for when I go down because it will happen to everyone at some point in their riding career. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 06:09 PM	#28
Assisin Training Wheels Joined: Jan 2010 From: Bellingham WA I Ride: 09' Ninja 650R (crashed and totaled), 75' RD350B (in pieces)	I guess I didn't phrase that properly. What I mean is that its pretty cheap to replace a slider compared to bike parts and I carry full coverage insurance which is less expensive than replacing the bike in case the sliders don"t save the bike. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 06:21 PM	#30
Real Fast Travis MotoGP Contender Joined: Nov 2009 From: Seattle, Wa Blog Entries: 14	Since my recent low speed, lowside, I'vebeen looking into sliders, I like the Woodcraft, any sugestions on how to cut the hole acurately? Do they come with a template or something? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 06:25 PM	#31
Assisin Training Wheels Joined: Jan 2010 From: Bellingham WA I Ride: 09' Ninja 650R (crashed and totaled), 75' RD350B (in pieces)	I put the bracket on under the fairing then drew a circle around it with a sharpie and drilled a pilot hole in the center, then used a hole saw to finish with a wood block behind it. Less than 1/16th around puck! __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 06:27 PM	#32
dwschultzy MotoGP Contender Joined: Nov 2007 From: right over there Blog Entries: 2 I Ride: various paved roads in warshington	there are a few different methods travis if/when you're ready....let me know i work in the area you live in often.....i could stop by and lend a hand __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 06:33 PM	#33
Real Fast Travis MotoGP Contender Joined: Nov 2009 From: Seattle, Wa Blog Entries: 14	^^^^ Thanks guys, sounds good. Ya, Donnie, if/when I get it out of the shop, I will hollar. Thanks! __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 06:52 PM	#34
Assisin Training Wheels Joined: Jan 2010 From: Bellingham WA I Ride: 09' Ninja 650R (crashed and totaled), 75' RD350B (in pieces)	This is how I did my woodcraft install. It work well. They send instructions for mounting locations specific to your bike with the sliders. Took about an hour and a half of actual work but an extra hour to get the nerve to drill the firs 2" hole in my plastics. http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~sh...%20Sliders.pdf __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 07:19 PM	#35
JasonM Endorsed Joined: Sep 2008 From: Lake Stevens, WA I Ride: 2006 GSX-R 750	Unfortunately, I have tested the Motovation nocut frame sliders on my GSXR 750 three times. In the first case, I had a ~20mph highside on the street. The frame slider on the right side (bolt straight into the frame) took the brunt of the damage, and between it, my rigid footpeg, and bar end all other damage was only plastic. The bolt through the puck bent and the puck was worn down a bit. In the second case, I low-sided at full lean in turn 9 at Pacific. The bike slide all the way from the inside of the track to the dirt on the outside. the bolt through the left puck (screwed into a bracket that is bolted to the frame) bent and a lot of the puck wore off, but there was no damage to the frame/engine. In this case, my track fairings didn't even take damage. Just scraped barend, slider bolt and puck, footpeg (barely), and a big (cheap!) swingarm slider spool broke the spool mount off the swingarm. In the third case, I had a truck pull out in front of me and had to dodge off the road into the grass, getting the bike down to 15mph or so before the front slid out and I fell over. This time, there was barely any damage, even to the frame slider, from the bike sliding and bearing most of the weight on the side on the end of the slider (slide trench dug by it). The bolt did not bend in this case, presumably due to the lack of impact force. Now.. the lesson that I got out of all of these crashes is simple. No-cut frame sliders, and frame sliders in general, work great as long as you don't go cheap. The better ones (like Motovation) cost more because more goes into development and materials. Frame slider bolts should bend (or break, I guess) before they transfer enough force to break what they're mounted to or get used as a lever to cause tumbling. In both hard crashes, the bolts in my Motovation frame sliders bent and needed to be replaced, but they protected the bike great. In the second, the bolt bent but the more expensive bracket did not, making it cheap to just replace the bolt and puck. My cheap swingarm sliders, that were probably using whatever stainless bolts were cheapest, broke the mount point before the bolt broke unfortunately. Needless to say, I did not make that mistake again. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 07:38 PM	#36
crampants WMRRA Qualifier Joined: Jul 2008 From: medford, oregon I Ride: 06 GSX-R 1000	__________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 07:53 PM	#37
jnicola Zone Head Joined: Aug 2009 From: Portland OR I Ride: 92 CBR 600F2 / 88 CBR600F (restoring) / XR250 (DIRT!)	Yeah, I'm surprised no one mentioned crash cages yet. Those seem to be the BEST option out there! Kind of like the earlier mention of sliders UNDER the fairings, the whole point is to increase surface area, and slide on something a bit more sacrificable, and spread the area of impact out. In the case of sliding on plastics, they take the brunt of the damage, and the sliders from there distrbute the force. Sliding on just sliders reduces surface area. Crash cages it would appear provides the most surface area, and gives your bike a full surface to slide on. When your bike goes down it's going to need at least one other point to slide on besides that slide. These are all just my personal observations and beliefs though. All of my crash testing was without frame sliders. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 07:55 PM	#38
Fast Eddie 919 Superbiker Joined: Jan 2009 From: Vancouver, WA I Ride: So I can Talk about it	It does vary by bike model, I had carbon fiber sliders in my SV650S that worked great. my 919 I was told because of it's lack of a frame would break engine parts, so my clutch cover got rashed and the tank was destroyed when I crashed it. The LSL on my ZZR looks like it did it's job in terms of protecting the bike, it ended up bent back whereas the SV's CF slider just ground down. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


03-09-2010, 07:59 PM	#39
step Dockmaster Joined: Aug 2006 From: Portland, OR I Ride: 2006 FZ1	Lowsided my '06 R6 with sliders on it, they did great until the tires grabbed and it barrel rolled (mid/lower fairings were good, tank/windscreen/front fairing not so good). I have always wondered if the slightly increased angle of the bike sliding on the sliders (picture bike on its side traveling tires first) caused the tires to grab and roll the bike, thus pretty much destroying it???? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter

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