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Old 05-10-2011, 01:18 AM   #1
Chicken Strips
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Joined: Mar 2010
From: Bellevue, WA

I Ride: 2006 Z1000
Motul motorcycle engine flush?
Has anybody seen this/used it?? Does it work? Good idea/bad idea?

RMC sells it for about 13 bucks. I know Motul makes some good stuff, but never seen a motorcycle engine flush...


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Old 05-10-2011, 04:24 AM   #2
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I have heard things like this do more harm than good

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Old 05-10-2011, 05:28 AM   #3
Mic
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From: Between Bellevue, Wa and Hood River, Or
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I Ride: a KLR 650, and an XT 225
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotama View Post
I have heard things like this do more harm than good
I don't see why? It's just a high detergent based oil you add in with new oil, run for 5 to 10 minutes through the system, drop it, put new oil in.

People use ATF to do the same thing due to it's high detergent levels.

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Old 05-10-2011, 06:05 AM   #4
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okay

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Old 05-10-2011, 09:39 AM   #5
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Joined: Mar 2010
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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotama View Post
I have heard things like this do more harm than good
Yeah, I have heard a things more in this direction...

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Old 05-10-2011, 10:10 AM   #6
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From: Ferndale, WA

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If one keeps their oil changed at adequately frequent intervals, there's really no need for this type of product.
I've been in numerous well-used motors (in which proper change intervals were observed) that were nice and clean inside.

Even if I was resurrecting a tired old cockroach, I'd just do 2 or 3 200-mile oil changes and call it good.

I'll let someone else use their main and rod bearings as the guinea pigs.

.

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Old 05-10-2011, 01:56 PM   #7
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Joined: Oct 2009
From: Bonney Lake, WA

I Ride: 2006 Yamaha FZ1
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by tedr View Post
if one keeps their oil changed at adequately frequent intervals, there's really no need for this type of product.
I've been in numerous well-used motors (in which proper change intervals were observed) that were nice and clean inside.

Even if i was resurrecting a tired old cockroach, i'd just do 2 or 3 200-mile oil changes and call it good.

I'll let someone else use their main and rod bearings as the guinea pigs.

.

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Old 05-10-2011, 03:30 PM   #8
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If one changes Oil and filter in the 1000 to 2000 mile range. (depending on use) The modern oils have various detergents depending on what brand. Personally I would think that anything that could clean the sludge accumulated due to lack of care in 10 minutes or less doesn't contain enough lubricating protection for the metal to metal contact in ones motor. That's just my take on it. I take meticulous care of my machines, oil change once a year regardless of miles, therefore would not even consider using such a product. This is my opinion, there is no need to get upset or try to change my mind (won't happen) you asked so I gave my opinion. PS And we know about opinions, they are like Ash Holes everyone has one.

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Old 05-10-2011, 10:45 PM   #9
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Joined: Dec 2005
From: Marysville

I Ride: A lifted JK 0|||||||0
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Mic View Post
I don't see why? It's just a high detergent based oil you add in with new oil, run for 5 to 10 minutes through the system, drop it, put new oil in.

People use ATF to do the same thing due to it's high detergent levels.
Yep. ATF is probably the best way to clean out a sludge filled engine. Cheap and has worked for years. Save money on the Motul buy some Dextron and use it instead.

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Old 05-10-2011, 10:48 PM   #10
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Joined: Dec 2005
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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotama View Post
I have heard things like this do more harm than good
Leaving a bunch of sludge in the motor will do more harm than good. Highly detergent oils will break it down slowly and allow you to drain it out of the engine. There is no more danger in leaving the stuff in there in the first place. As long as you do not operate the motor above idle, things will be ok.

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Old 05-10-2011, 11:16 PM   #11
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Joined: Mar 2010
From: Bellevue, WA

I Ride: 2006 Z1000
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba_zenetti View Post
Yep. ATF is probably the best way to clean out a sludge filled engine. Cheap and has worked for years. Save money on the Motul buy some Dextron and use it instead.
I know people do that in cars (I have done it myself, works pretty damn well) but does it do anything to the clutch plates in a bike? COULD it?

NO, I am not going to flush my bike. Saw the product the other day, had asked about something like this 3 or 4 years ago out of curiosity and was told it didn't exist.

Thanks for all the input!

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Old 05-11-2011, 05:05 AM   #12
Mic
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From: Between Bellevue, Wa and Hood River, Or
Blog Entries: 26

I Ride: a KLR 650, and an XT 225
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by gmbyjeff View Post
I know people do that in cars (I have done it myself, works pretty damn well) but does it do anything to the clutch plates in a bike? COULD it?

NO, I am not going to flush my bike. Saw the product the other day, had asked about something like this 3 or 4 years ago out of curiosity and was told it didn't exist.

Thanks for all the input!
To answer your question, No, not if you are following what was said and you run it through your system, don't ride it, and dump and change the oil (and filter).

The plates have already absorbed oil.

Detergent is not a solvent. A lot of people think it is a solvent, like the ones above talking about how it is going to be the end of the world on your bearings.

The unburnt gasoline that your oil collects however is a solvent, and does more damage than this would.

Also, for those of you who use products like Amsoil, they are a "high detergent" oil. Meaning they put more detergents in their oil than standard oils have. Any "High Mileage" oil will have more detergents. This is how they are high mileage. They are able to suspend more particles of crap (soot/varnish).

I bet most people do not read Amsoil's recommended procedures when switching to their oil. They ask that you use a cheap oil filter, fill it with oil, run the engine at idle for 30 minutes, change the oil and filter again, then change the oil at 1500 and 3000 miles (with filter change) before going to the extended mileage.

They recommend this procedure due to the high concentrations of detergents in their oil, and it breaking up the varnish and soot deposits in the engine.

This is something needs to realize with any high detergent oil. Amsoil, Rotella, Delo, high mileage oils, etc.

Is flushing needed for most engines? Probably not. Not if you are changing at the recommended intervals and using a quality oil. Especially if you are using a Diesel Oil such as Rotella or Delo, or another high detergent oil such as Amsoil. These oils are already doing exactly what these due, but at a bit slower process over time.

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Old 05-11-2011, 05:31 AM   #13
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From: Spokane Valley

I Ride: Suzuki Boulevard C90, Suzuki DRZ400E, My Wife's Scooter
If you want to get really aggressive, you can do a kerosene flush.


KevinD

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Old 05-11-2011, 05:33 AM   #14
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Joined: Feb 2005
From: West Richland

I Ride: Pitster Motard
I have disassembled probably around 100 or so motorcycle engines in my lifetime, and never seen enough sludge to warrant flushing them. Even in some really old bikes with lots of miles. I have never been inside a HD motor, though.

Just use a good detergent oil and dont worry about it.

Or flush it by adding ATF or Marvels Mystery Oil at 25% of total oil volume.

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Old 05-11-2011, 05:34 AM   #15
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Joined: Feb 2005
From: West Richland

I Ride: Pitster Motard
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinD View Post
If you want to get really aggressive, you can do a kerosene flush.


KevinD
Bad idea. That is a solvent, not a detergent.

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