Pete
mine has a nut. I think yours has a bolt. The spring washers are different.
Andy
There is a sleeve that goes over the shaft with an Oring on its face that rides against the inner bearing race face. That's pushed by the sprocket against the sleeve. There is a spring washer and then the nut.
The nut is aluminum and I think mines toast.
I'll know when I get home.
But I'm jsut going to order a new one anyway.
In fact...I'll order two of everything I need and call it a day.
I'm really starting to think sealant around the seal also...

The CS sproket pressed by the nut is what keeps the sleeve from spinning. It's pressed between the inner bearing race and the sprocket.
It's not spinning unless the nut loosened.
Hence my thoughts about that beat up aluminum nut Norm sold me....

here we go...


blame it on Norm

Pete
You think 2 spring washers would help????

SPRING WASHER
SPRING WASHER
SPRING WASHER

Don't matter nurt or bolt. The spring washer loses tension over time. any spring steel will. Bet ya a beer that solves it. Like i said, i had this fail on mine too. I replaced 3 damn seals, 3 o-rings, and a sleeve before i figured it out man.

Is there enough length on the sleeve to put a thin wave washer between the sprocket and sleeve without the sleeve running back inside the lip seal? That would ensure there is enough pressure on the o-ring.

Are you able to tell which seal is leaking?

Pete, are you talking about the 450? I purchased a few items for MUNN and they told me leaving my bike on the kick stand will cause a leak in very short order and use a stand whenever possible. Something about our seals not being designed to be submersed in oil while sitting.

Anyway, hope you get it sorted out drag.

On Seals for oil, you should never use grease, you use the oil that it is to seal.

Also, get yourself some plastic sheet covers used for page dividers (You can get this at Fred Meyers or any office supply). Cut out a piece large enough to roll up and place it inside the seal lip, oil it with again, the oil it is to seal and now place the rolled sheet over the shaft, now slide the seal into place. This will protect the seal lip front getting cut by the shaft, and keep the inner spring in place while you PUSH it onto place. I find gaskacinch, a light coating on the outside of the seals body will help it slide into place. You should avoid hammering it into place and this can cause the inner spring to dislodge. Sometimes you have to hammer, when you do, you light taps and work it down evenly.



After you get the seal going into the bore, pull the plastic out and then push the seal the rest of the way home and you should be good to go.

also I've read if your chain is too tight right after installation it can cause it to leak again?

Run it loose for a week or two to let it seal?