Need help with setting sag

Flyboymedic · 07-07-2012, 05:59 AM

I bought my Husky a couple months ago and I'm considering getting the rear shock lowered by about 1", but before I do that I realize that I should probably set the sag up for me and my weight to know for sure. I'll need to have it set up again once I do the lowering so I'm hoping to avoid paying to have it done twice. Could anyone local that knows what they're doing, help me out?

RedKat600 · 07-07-2012, 07:15 AM

Do you have a spanner for the rear shock?

moparmiller · 07-07-2012, 07:52 AM

Are you on the right springs to begin with?

Flyboymedic · 07-07-2012, 10:43 AM

I don't have a spanner but I've got a long, heavy duty screwdriver & a dull chisel also.

I bought the bike from a guy that's got 50-75 lbs on me & he had the suspension set up for him @ RPS Suspensions. He didn't have any paperwork to prove that but he was very honest with everything else. Also, the bike feels like it doesn't need a heavier spring.

PeteN95 · 07-07-2012, 11:29 AM

Should sag about 4" with you on it and after you set that, about 1" without you on it if the spring is right. If it sags much more than 1", spring is too stiff, much less, spring is too soft.

Gotama · 07-07-2012, 12:28 PM

Originally Posted by PeteN95

Should sag about 4" with you on it and after you set that, about 1" without you on it if the spring is right. If it sags much more than 1", spring is too stiff, much less, spring is too soft.

isn't that the other way around ?
after sag is set if it still sags more than 1" spring is too soft , and if it's much less than 1" spring is too stiff

RedKat600 · 07-07-2012, 03:10 PM

Originally Posted by Gotama

isn't that the other way around ?
after sag is set if it still sags more than 1" spring is too soft , and if it's much less than 1" spring is too stiff

Yeah he had that backwards.

Flyboymedic · 07-07-2012, 03:41 PM

Originally Posted by PeteN95

Should sag about 4" with you on it and after you set that, about 1" without you on it if the spring is right. If it sags much more than 1", spring is too stiff, much less, spring is too soft.

Originally Posted by Gotama

isn't that the other way around ?
after sag is set if it still sags more than 1" spring is too soft , and if it's much less than 1" spring is too stiff

Guys, that's why I need someone to help me do it. I can't do it alone and I need someone that knows what they're doing so I can know for sure how to proceed. I don't want to pay EDR or anyone else $40 when it'll have to be done again after I lower it or whatever I do. The bike is too damn tall and I'm sick of dropping it while trying to get on it. I just broke the kickstand and clutch handle 20 minutes ago because of that!

TRAIL BOSS · 07-07-2012, 08:47 PM

Why exactly are you lowering a sumo?

Flyboymedic · 07-07-2012, 10:22 PM

It's not a sumo.

TRAIL BOSS · 07-07-2012, 11:00 PM

Originally Posted by Flyboymedic

It's not a sumo.

Okay...

A.) It should be a supermoto. Get on that.
B.) Why are you lowering your dirt bike?

Alanjtc73n · 07-07-2012, 11:15 PM

Don't set your sag now. Set it after you lower the bike. No sense in doing it twice let alone paying for it twice. How do you plan on lowering it? Sending it to RDS to limit travel? Have you considered a Kouba link and then raising the front forks in the triple tree? Used one in my supermoto and it was tons cheaper than sending my shock out to get lowered. If you do use the Kouba, again - set the sag afterwards since you are changing the geometry.

Flyboymedic · 07-07-2012, 11:19 PM

1) I ride it like a super-moto. Does that count?

2) Again, it's because it's too tall and I'm tippy-toeing it when I get on or stopped at a traffic light. I lost my balance and dumped the bike today because I don't even have the balls of my feet on the pavement. I think if the sag is adjusted to my weight and equipment and that doesn't lower it enough, I'm going to lower it through the shock rather than a lowering link.

Flyboymedic · 07-07-2012, 11:21 PM

Sigh.......

Why is it I keep having to explain things over and over again to those folks up near Seattle???

Alanjtc73n · 07-07-2012, 11:34 PM

Originally Posted by Flyboymedic

1) I ride it like a super-moto. Does that count?

2) Again, it's because it's too tall and I'm tippy-toeing it when I get on or stopped at a traffic light. I lost my balance and dumped the bike today because I don't even have the balls of my feet on the pavement. I think if the sag is adjusted to my weight and equipment and that doesn't lower it enough, I'm going to lower it through the shock rather than a lowering link.

Originally Posted by Flyboymedic

Sigh.......

Why is it I keep having to explain things over and over again to those folks up near Seattle???

...

trying to help you and you slip in a jab about Seattle.

You're mistaken here. Setting the sag for your weight will not gain you the amount of lowering you need. Plus you never said that setting sag was your way of getting your feet closer to the ground. It makes no sense for you to set the sag now and then reset it again after you have it lowered.

I know what you're going to say - "but if I set the sag now, I'll have an idea of what I need to lower the bike too." Doesn't matter. Why? Because when you set the sag again after lowering you'll be at a different height again. Thus - no need to set up sag now. Lower first.

Also - are you trying to set up the sag as a street bike or as a dirt bike? There's a difference.

We ask because you haven't supplied enough information. You're asking for something that suspension shops pay for. You'll go through the same questions with them. No need to get snippy about it here.

Flyboymedic · 07-08-2012, 06:04 AM

Now we're getting somewhere. Thank you for your insight- I've responded in red.

Originally Posted by Alanjtc73n

You're mistaken here. Setting the sag for your weight will not gain you the amount of lowering you need. Plus you never said that setting sag was your way of getting your feet closer to the ground. It makes no sense for you to set the sag now and then reset it again after you have it lowered.
I had the sag set on another duel-sport by a professional and it lowered the bike considerably. That's why I'm thinking I should have someone get me in the ball-park first, and then figure out how much to lower the shock. Which is what you answered next.
I know what you're going to say - "but if I set the sag now, I'll have an idea of what I need to lower the bike too." Doesn't matter. Why? Because when you set the sag again after lowering you'll be at a different height again. Thus - no need to set up sag now. Lower first. Ok, looks like I'll be doing that.

Also - are you trying to set up the sag as a street bike or as a dirt bike? There's a difference.
The majority of my riding is on the street and to be honest, I kinda wish I had bought the SM version, but this was through a private seller and it was a really good deal. Also, in all the forums folks were saying it's easier to make the dirt bike into a sumo instead of the sumo into a dirt bike, so I felt like I that was the direction I needed to go. So to answer the question, I think I'm going to set it up for street riding.
We ask because you haven't supplied enough information. You're asking for something that suspension shops pay for. You'll go through the same questions with them. No need to get snippy about it here.
I felt like I was answering the same questions over and over and getting nowhere. All I was hoping for was someone that knows how to do the measurements and spend 20 minutes with me so that I could get a fairly accurate baseline in how much to lower the bike.

take risks · 07-15-2012, 03:19 PM

this is a start.


07-07-2012, 05:59 AM	#1
Flyboymedic Chicken Strips Joined: Jun 2010 From: Vancouver, Wa I Ride: 2000 Honda VFR800, 2008 Husqvarna TE-610, 2004 Ninjette	Need help with setting sag I bought my Husky a couple months ago and I'm considering getting the rear shock lowered by about 1", but before I do that I realize that I should probably set the sag up for me and my weight to know for sure. I'll need to have it set up again once I do the lowering so I'm hoping to avoid paying to have it done twice. Could anyone local that knows what they're doing, help me out? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-07-2012, 07:15 AM	#2
RedKat600 Joined: May 2011 From: LaCenter, WA I Ride: 2003 Copper SV1K	Do you have a spanner for the rear shock? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-07-2012, 07:52 AM	#3
moparmiller Licensed Joined: Jul 2006 From: Pullman WA I Ride: the parts counter...	Are you on the right springs to begin with? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-07-2012, 10:43 AM	#4
Flyboymedic Chicken Strips Joined: Jun 2010 From: Vancouver, Wa I Ride: 2000 Honda VFR800, 2008 Husqvarna TE-610, 2004 Ninjette	I don't have a spanner but I've got a long, heavy duty screwdriver & a dull chisel also. I bought the bike from a guy that's got 50-75 lbs on me & he had the suspension set up for him @ RPS Suspensions. He didn't have any paperwork to prove that but he was very honest with everything else. Also, the bike feels like it doesn't need a heavier spring. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-07-2012, 11:29 AM	#5
PeteN95 Joined: Jan 2008 From: Muk, WA Blog Entries: 4 I Ride: fast, except on the road.	Should sag about 4" with you on it and after you set that, about 1" without you on it if the spring is right. If it sags much more than 1", spring is too stiff, much less, spring is too soft. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-07-2012, 08:47 PM	#9
TRAIL BOSS Defiler of Threads Joined: Apr 2007 From: Arlington I Ride: for OPRT with an 06 ZX-tenaaaaargh Fighter and an 07 SXV550 (The Darkness)	Why exactly are you lowering a sumo? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-07-2012, 10:22 PM	#10
Flyboymedic Chicken Strips Joined: Jun 2010 From: Vancouver, Wa I Ride: 2000 Honda VFR800, 2008 Husqvarna TE-610, 2004 Ninjette	It's not a sumo. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-07-2012, 11:15 PM	#12
Alanjtc73n Peg Dragger Joined: Mar 2007 From: Redmond, WA I Ride: what others won't	Don't set your sag now. Set it after you lower the bike. No sense in doing it twice let alone paying for it twice. How do you plan on lowering it? Sending it to RDS to limit travel? Have you considered a Kouba link and then raising the front forks in the triple tree? Used one in my supermoto and it was tons cheaper than sending my shock out to get lowered. If you do use the Kouba, again - set the sag afterwards since you are changing the geometry. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-07-2012, 11:19 PM	#13
Flyboymedic Chicken Strips Joined: Jun 2010 From: Vancouver, Wa I Ride: 2000 Honda VFR800, 2008 Husqvarna TE-610, 2004 Ninjette	1) I ride it like a super-moto. Does that count? 2) Again, it's because it's too tall and I'm tippy-toeing it when I get on or stopped at a traffic light. I lost my balance and dumped the bike today because I don't even have the balls of my feet on the pavement. I think if the sag is adjusted to my weight and equipment and that doesn't lower it enough, I'm going to lower it through the shock rather than a lowering link. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-07-2012, 11:21 PM	#14
Flyboymedic Chicken Strips Joined: Jun 2010 From: Vancouver, Wa I Ride: 2000 Honda VFR800, 2008 Husqvarna TE-610, 2004 Ninjette	Sigh....... Why is it I keep having to explain things over and over again to those folks up near Seattle??? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


07-15-2012, 03:19 PM	#17
take risks Chicken Strips Joined: Jul 2011 From: Edmonds I Ride: with a :)	this is a start. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter

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