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Old 07-26-2012, 05:48 PM   #41
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Joined: Aug 2011
From: Tanasbourne, OR

I Ride: '08 R6, '07 S2R 1000, '10 Ninjette #791
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyckedan View Post
Ok fine, he won't have to worry about them until after he replaces the head gasket, is that better?
I would have broken the news a little more gently, but yes.

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Old 07-26-2012, 05:49 PM   #42
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Joined: Feb 2010
From: Seattle, Wa

I Ride: RSV4 Factory APRC with OPRT
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Grantizzle View Post
Can we start bets for when a "HELP!!!!! my head gasket is shot! Can someone help me replace it?!?!?!?!?!????!!!!!111" thread?
I got $5 on Saturday

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Old 07-26-2012, 05:51 PM   #43
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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Veloc View Post
I would have broken the news a little more gently, but yes.
You made me do it! I wasn't gonna say it, I swear. I did find this though http://www.yzfr6.net/manual/

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Last edited by Wyckedan; 07-26-2012 at 05:55 PM..
 
Old 07-26-2012, 06:00 PM   #44
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Joined: Jul 2009
From: Anywhere I can get to on my bike

I Ride: 2000 GSX-R 750
Good news!!! The bike lives!!

And (humor aside) there will be no "help the gasket's fucked" thread. I have the bike diagnosed!! Yeppers.

So...........

The R/R is good. Which means my electrical is in good shape.

The white smoke is unburnt fuel being forced through the system into the exhaust. So here's the lowdown on what's going on.....

My float pin is not set at the right level. It's not seating correctly into the carb and that's letting an overflow of fuel into the carbs, which isn't being used up. The unused fuel is pooling in the combustion chamber on top of the piston's causing my engine to vapor lock. When the bike is finally able to turn over and fire it forces all the unused fuel into the exhaust which is what's causing the puff of smoke when I start it.

To fix.......... I just need to clean my carbs, adjust my valves, sync something or another, and then.... Adjust the float pin in the bowls so they seat correctly and stop the excess fuel from going into the pistons.

So, while there may not be a "help my gasket's fucked" thread........ this has just officially become a "anyone free on saturday and wanna teach me how to do my carbs" thread..............

Sooooooooooooooooooo............. Anyone free on Saturday and wanna teach me how to do my carbs? Lunch will be my treat for anyone willing to help me tune my carbs and valves so I can make the Sunday 101 loop ride with my brother.

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:07 PM   #45
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Joined: May 2011
From: LaCenter, WA

I Ride: 2003 Copper SV1K
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 dizzy View Post
Good news!!! The bike lives!!

And (humor aside) there will be no "help the gasket's fucked" thread. I have the bike diagnosed!! Yeppers.

So...........

The R/R is good. Which means my electrical is in good shape.

The white smoke is unburnt fuel being forced through the system into the exhaust. So here's the lowdown on what's going on.....

My float pin is not set at the right level. It's not seating correctly into the carb and that's letting an overflow of fuel into the carbs, which isn't being used up. The unused fuel is pooling in the combustion chamber on top of the piston's causing my engine to vapor lock. When the bike is finally able to turn over and fire it forces all the unused fuel into the exhaust which is what's causing the puff of smoke when I start it.

To fix.......... I just need to clean my carbs, adjust my valves, sync something or another, and then.... Adjust the float pin in the bowls so they seat correctly and stop the excess fuel from going into the pistons.

So, while there may not be a "help my gasket's fucked" thread........ this has just officially become a "anyone free on saturday and wanna teach me how to do my carbs" thread..............

Sooooooooooooooooooo............. Anyone free on Saturday and wanna teach me how to do my carbs? Lunch will be my treat for anyone willing to help me tune my carbs and valves so I can make the Sunday 101 loop ride with my brother.
Um, it's probably not that the floats are out of adjustment. The float needles probably need replaced. If they have rubber tips on them, which they probably do, I'd suggest replacing them since they are 11 years old. Just an FYI.

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:08 PM   #46
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Joined: Aug 2011
From: Tanasbourne, OR

I Ride: '08 R6, '07 S2R 1000, '10 Ninjette #791
Right on!

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:09 PM   #47
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Joined: Feb 2008
From: Mill Creek, Wa

I Ride: slower than you with a bigger grin!
Valves and carbs is a LOT of work on an inline4. You're gonna have to measure it all, find shims, replace all shims, measure again and hope they're in spec.

Then the carbs...

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:10 PM   #48
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From: Anywhere I can get to on my bike

I Ride: 2000 GSX-R 750
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by RedKat600 View Post
I can do valve adjustments, carb cleanings, and carb syncs also. Lol.
I think I'm gonna plan a REALLY early morning ride saturday to where ever the hell you're at. LOL. Wonder if I could get the valves and carbs done in one day and have it running right for Sunday?

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:13 PM   #49
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From: Mill Creek, Wa

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Valves need to be cold to properly check them. At least a 12hour cool down.

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:14 PM   #50
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Joined: May 2011
From: LaCenter, WA

I Ride: 2003 Copper SV1K
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 dizzy View Post
I think I'm gonna plan a REALLY early morning ride saturday to where ever the hell you're at. LOL. Wonder if I could get the valves and carbs done in one day and have it running right for Sunday?
If your valves are out of adjustment, that's a no go as you will need to buy shims. Those aren't the screw and nut tappet type adjusters on them thar new bikes. The shop I got my shims from just traded me straight across at no cost.....so I bought a new set of tires and some new spools from them as a thank you.

Basically, you measure the gap. Then pull the cams and the shims that are out of spec, measure or hope the thickness is still stamped on them, do some math, go buy new shims, install them, install the cams, roll the engine over a few times to check cam timing then check clearance again and hope you did your math right.

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Last edited by RedKat600; 07-26-2012 at 06:17 PM..
 
Old 07-26-2012, 06:16 PM   #51
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Joined: Jul 2009
From: Anywhere I can get to on my bike

I Ride: 2000 GSX-R 750
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Grantizzle View Post
Valves need to be cold to properly check them. At least a 12hour cool down.
THAT........ I did not know. I know you say it's alot of work to do the carbs and valves. And I respect that. But lot of work or not, I want to learn to do it. I don't have a problem getting dirty and wrenching on the bike, especially if it means I'm gonna save money by not having to pay for shop time. But I'm hoping that someone who does know how to do them, will be willing to teach me. I'm eager to learn, not afraid to ask questions, and I'm enthusiastic about wanting to know more that just "how to ride" when it comes to my bike. Plus...... I can provide lunch!!

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:22 PM   #52
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Joined: Jul 2009
From: Anywhere I can get to on my bike

I Ride: 2000 GSX-R 750
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by RedKat600 View Post
If your valves are out of adjustment, that's a no go as you will need to buy shims. Those aren't the screw and nut tappet type adjusters on them thar new bikes. The shop I got my shims from just traded me straight across at no cost.....so I bought a new set of tires and some new spools from them as a thank you.

Basically, you measure the gap. Then pull the cams and the shims that are out of spec, measure or hope the thickness is still stamped on them, do some math, go buy new shims, install them, install the cams, roll the engine over a few times to check cam timing then check clearance again and hope you did your math right.
For me........ just learning........... (and with a good teacher)........ what would be a realistic amount of time needed to do the valves and carbs on my bike? ('00 R6 just in case I forgot to mention it before)

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:24 PM   #53
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I Ride: slower than you with a bigger grin!
To be completely honest, if I was you and at your skill level, I'd take my bike to Adrian at SHINY SIDE UP in Everett. He does a full tune up including valves and carb synching for $400 plus parts. Your bike will be down for a bit, but it'll be 100% when you get it back.

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:25 PM   #54
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Joined: Feb 2008
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I Ride: slower than you with a bigger grin!
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 dizzy View Post
For me........ just learning........... (and with a good teacher)........ what would be a realistic amount of time needed to do the valves and carbs on my bike? ('00 R6 just in case I forgot to mention it before)
Start to finish is about 12hours. No joke.

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:29 PM   #55
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so an all weekend job if I start on saturday morning, and probably finish on sunday evening?

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:36 PM   #56
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Joined: Feb 2010
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I Ride: RSV4 Factory APRC with OPRT
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Grantizzle View Post
To be completely honest, if I was you and at your skill level, I'd take my bike to Adrian at SHINY SIDE UP in Everett. He does a full tune up including valves and carb synching for $400 plus parts. Your bike will be down for a bit, but it'll be 100% when you get it back.
. Just because you want to learn, you also need to understand you're asking A LOT from someone. Look into motorcycle repair classes at a community college. Sometimes learning means you have to fit into someone else's schedule, and sometimes the stars don't align enough to allow that.

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:39 PM   #57
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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 dizzy View Post
so an all weekend job if I start on saturday morning, and probably finish on sunday evening?

If you know what you're doing. And don't fuck anything up.

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:47 PM   #58
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Joined: Jun 2007
From: Seattle

I Ride: YZF750, HawkGT, YSR50, VT1100(parting), '73 CB350F, SV650, CB550F, CB175
Not really something you want to rush.

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Old 07-26-2012, 07:00 PM   #59
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Joined: Feb 2012
From: Issaquah Washington

I Ride: 2010 Ninja 250r Sold & 99 R1
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexHack View Post
Not really something you want to rush.
.. When we talked it sounded like a simple job of adjusting the float, u never mentioned the carbs and valves needing adjustment.. I would call it a no go on Sunday bro, take ur time and see if u can do it and there is someone willing to take the time and teach u. Or just count the loss and pay a shop or an independent mechanic to do it right.. Id rather have my bike up in running from someone who actually knows what they r doing and not ride for a few rather then fck something up and not have a bike at all...

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Old 07-26-2012, 07:11 PM   #60
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Joined: Feb 2012
From: Issaquah Washington

I Ride: 2010 Ninja 250r Sold & 99 R1
Here is a DIY post that i found and im goin to attemp to do this during winter when im not gonna do to much riding.. But just to give u a general idea on what ur up against

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247485

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