PNW Riders

beansbaxter · 09-10-2005, 03:32 AM

Suspension Tuning Guide
Street Bike or Road Racing Applications

With incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and handling suffers,
resulting in rider fatigue. Lap times can be dramatically slower and overall
safety for both street and race enthusiasts is another issue. Add the
frustration factor and it just makes sense to properly setup your suspension.
The following guide will help you dial in your suspension for faster and safer
riding both on and off the track.

Basic Setup: Check the following

Forks sag 25-40 mm

Shock sag 25-35 mm

Check chain alignment. If not correct, bike will crab walk and sprocket wear
will be increased.

Proper tire balance and pressure. If out of balance, there will be vibration and
headshake.

Steering head bearings and torque specifications, if too loose, there will be
head shake at high speeds.

Front-end alignment. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. If out of
alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering will suffer.

Crash damage, check for proper frame geometry.

Adjustment Locations on Forks

Rebound adjustment (if applicable) is located near the top of the fork.
Compression adjustment (if applicable) is located near the bottom of the fork.
Spring preload adjustment (if applicable) is generally hex style and located at
the top of the fork.

FRONT FORKS:

Forks: Lack of Rebound

Symptoms:

Forks are plush, but increasing speed causes loss of control and traction

The motorcycle wallows and tends to run wide exiting the turn causing fading
traction and loss of control.

When taking a corner a speed, you experience front-end chatter, loss of traction
and control.

Aggressive input at speed lessons control and chassis attitude suffers.

Front end fails to recover after aggressive input over bumpy surfaces.

Solution:

Insufficient rebound. Increase rebound "gradually" until control and traction
are optimized and chatter is gone.

Forks: Too Much Rebound

Symptoms:

Front end feels locked up resulting in harsh ride.

Suspension packs in and fails to return, giving a harsh ride. Typically after
the first bump, the bike will skip over subsequent bumps and want to tuck the
front.

With acceleration, the front end will tank slap or shake violently due to lack
of front wheel tire contact.

Solution:

Too much rebound. Decrease rebound "gradually" until control and traction are
optimized.

Forks: Lack of Compression

Symptoms:

Front-end dives severely, sometimes bottoming out over heavy bumps or during
aggressive breaking.

Front feels soft or vague similar to lack of rebound.

When bottoming, a clunk is heard. This is due to reaching the bottom of fork
travel.

Solution:

Insufficient compression. Increase "gradually" until control and traction are
optimized.

Forks: Too Much Compression

Symptom:

Front end rides high through the corners, causing the bike to steer wide. It
should maintain the pre-determined sag, which will allow the steering geometry
to remain constant.

Solution:

Decrease compression "gradually" until bike neither bottoms or rides high.

Symptom:

Front end chatters or shakes entering turns. This is due to incorrect oil height
and/or too much low speed compression damping.

Solution:

First, verify that oil height is correct. If correct, then decrease compression
"gradually" until chattering and shaking ceases.

Symptom:

Bumps and ripples are felt directly in the triple clamps and through the
chassis. This causes the front wheel to bounce over bumps.

Solution:

Decrease compression "gradually" until control is regained.

Symptom:

Ride is generally hard, and gets even harder when braking or entering turns.

Solution:

Decrease compression "gradually" until control is regained.

REAR SHOCK:

Adjustment Locations on Shocks

Rebound adjustment (if applicable) is located at the bottom of the shock.
Compression adjustment (if applicable) is located on the reservoir. Spring
prelude is located at the top of the shock.

Shock: Lack of Rebound

Symptoms:

The ride will feel soft or vague and as speed increases, the rear end will want
to wallow and/or weave over bumpy surfaces and traction suffers.

Loss of traction will cause rear end to pogo or chatter due to shock returning
too fast on exiting a corner.

Solution:

Insufficient rebound: Increase rebound until wallowing and weaving disappears
and control and traction are optimized.

Shock: Too Much Rebound

Symptoms:

Ride is harsh, suspension control is limited and traction is lost.

Rear end will pack in, forcing the bike wide in corners, due to rear squat. It
will slow steering because front end is riding high.

When rear end packs in, tires generally will overheat and will skip over bumps.

When chopping throttle, rear end will tend to skip or hop on entries.

Solution:

Too much rebound. Decrease rebound "gradually" until harsh ride is gone and
traction is regained. Decrease rebound to keep rear end from packing.

Shock: Lack of Compression

Symptoms:

The bike will not turn in entering a turn.

With bottoming, control and traction are lost.

With excessive rear end squat, when accelerating out of corners, the bike will
tend to steer wide.

Solution:

Insufficient compression. Increase compression "gradually until traction and
control is optimized and/or excessive rear end squat is gone.

Shock: Too Much Compression

Symptoms:

Ride is harsh, but not as bad as too much rebound. As speed increases, so does
harshness.

There is very little rear end squat. This will cause loss of traction/sliding.
Tire will overheat.

Rear end will want to kick when going over medium to large bumps.

Solution:

Decrease compression until harshness is gone. Decrease compression until sliding
stops and traction is regained.

Stock Tuning Limitations

The factories plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large
section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible,
manufacturers install valving with very small venturis. These are then matched
to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given
suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but
at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension
will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic
lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The
solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It
does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, KYB, Showa), matching
them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action.
Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not
matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when
you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part,
this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an
area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small
venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving,
the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you
will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock
performs.

Another problem with stock suspension is the springs that are used. Often they
are progressive, increasing the spring rate with increased compression distance.
This means that the valving is correct for only one part of the spring's travel,
all other is compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate spring, it
is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with gear. The solution
is to install a straight-rate spring that matches the valving for the combined
weight of the bike, rider and gear to the type of riding intended.

Remember

Always make small adjustments, more is not always better.
Always keep notes.

Suspension tuning is an art, be patient. I hope you all find this helpful. Feel
free to email your questions to us at info@mototechnw.com. We are always happy
to help inprove your ride. Herb Varin

Jafar · 10-06-2005, 06:02 PM

where did you get this Beans?, Herb Varin is the guy who worked on my 900ss motor. he works for Eastside Ducati.

beansbaxter · 10-21-2005, 02:53 PM

Originally Posted by Jafar

where did you get this Beans?, Herb Varin is the guy who worked on my 900ss motor. he works for Eastside Ducati.

small world, eh.

I was doing some Yahoo searches for suspension, came across this, thought I'd share it. You know me, trying to reach the end of the Internet and finding motorcycle related stuff along the way.

Get Herb on the website. Tell him your life produces no more negative due to that 900SS and Amanda being out of your life. Go Team Green!

snake · 10-21-2005, 04:51 PM

Nice guide. Thanks.

chd · 01-29-2006, 11:37 AM

There's also some really good info at http://www.gpsuspension.com -- click on "Services", then "Tuning guide". I just had my racebike forks re-sprung and re-valved by these guys, and got a penske triple in the rear... made a HUGE difference.

CD

Perferd · 01-29-2006, 12:07 PM

My penske is on and should be doing my forks at GP too...

chd · 01-29-2006, 11:11 PM

Nice -- you're gonna love it.

Perferd · 01-29-2006, 11:14 PM

I cant wait to even see the bike lol...

Perferd · 01-29-2006, 11:16 PM

Moto · 02-24-2006, 04:44 PM

colOn...you twit...you've only ridden that bike in your neighborhood.
that shock must have less soap on it - that's what you're feeling.

chd · 02-28-2006, 12:47 PM

Again, always something so interesting to say. What are you saying anyway? I think you should keep your immature comments to yourself from this point on.

Moto · 02-28-2006, 01:06 PM

well sorry...
it's true - you've only ridden the bike 3 times.
-on you way home with it.
-to my place to show me crap you bought for it.
-around your street at 15 - 20mph.

chd · 02-28-2006, 07:16 PM

So you've been stalking me now? You know how often I ride and which bike? Yeah, right. If you remember, my racebike is street-legal covertible in about 20 minutes... I've ridden it plenty to feel a suspension difference -- I'd better notice for the $$ I paid. How's your suspension by the way? Maybe you need me to come by and adjust it again for you?

winter rules · 06-02-2007, 07:08 PM

almost the same stuff as beans posted but with pics...

http://www.kgrant.co.uk/Per_Handling2.htm

Drain Fade · 10-11-2007, 09:47 AM

Originally Posted by winter rules

almost the same stuff as beans posted but with pics...

http://www.kgrant.co.uk/Per_Handling2.htm

Great find...thanks. I'm actually very aware of this now since I bought this latest bike. When I got it I was riding on rocks...so I turned everything out on the front end and started there. I'm about 99% there now after 2 weeks of tinkering but I'm getting more familiar with what adjustment does what.

Dishwashing_Liquid · 05-13-2008, 09:03 AM

Question

What is considered a "click"?

vagrant · 05-13-2008, 02:18 PM

Originally Posted by Dishwashing_Liquid

Question

What is considered a "click"?

Not kilometers.

If you get a flathead screwdriver and turn either of your rebound nobs on the top of your forks (or the bottom) you will feel the screw drop into "notches" and may here/feel a "click". Just remember how many and which way you turned so you can turn it back.

marksvfr · 06-12-2008, 08:00 AM

Great Guide, but think I will just take it to GP, let them do what they do best.

ApexGirl · 06-19-2008, 10:10 PM

is GP the only place in town that adjusts suspensions, or are there others. Bought a used bike and the prior own was abt 100 lbs heavier then I am, so definitely need to get set set for my weight.

Lone Rider · 02-14-2009, 03:05 PM

Originally Posted by ApexGirl

is GP the only place in town that adjusts suspensions, or are there others. Bought a used bike and the prior own was abt 100 lbs heavier then I am, so definitely need to get set set for my weight.

I think there are several. Go to the Oregon road racers site and you'll find more I believe.

Cant go wrong with GP though. Barry here in Seattle will dial your stuff in at a track day. Dont know if the GP guys show up at track days at PIR. I didnt notice them at PSSR track days.
I strongly recommend PSSR for your 1st track day outfit. Great folks.

GP SUSPENSION · 02-14-2009, 05:05 PM

[QUOTE=Kitsap Rider;1553339]I think there are several. Go to the Oregon road racers site and you'll find more I believe.

Cant go wrong with GP though. Barry here in Seattle will dial your stuff in at a track day. Dont know if the GP guys show up at track days at PIR. I didnt notice them at PSSR track days.
I strongly recommend PSSR for your 1st track day outfit. Great folks.[/QUOT

It is tough to show up to every event working seven days a week starts to wear on the mind and body.

GP SUSPENSION · 02-14-2009, 05:23 PM

Well if Bean confused you guys come see us and we can set your suspension up for you and give you some suspension tips. We love Pendleton Whiskey show up with a bottle and a couple of your buddy's and we will make your bikes handle better.

And while you are there we can show you why stock suspension lacks so much due to the way manufactures try and make one size fits all when it comes to suspension and the difference a straight rate spring makes in the back instead of a progressive spring
When we go through a set of forks and overhaul them we hand you back a bag of stock parts that we replace because they do not work.

Come see us we do not bite the 15% off deal is still going. Hey Bean we just did an 06 ZX10 when you bringing your bike in?

GP SUSPENSION · 02-22-2009, 12:53 PM

The factories plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large
section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible,
manufacturers install valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, KYB, Showa), matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs.

I am doing a set of forks and rear shock for a PNW riders 2003 FZ1 and if you look at the factory rebound piston on the left the statement above will make sense to you the updated GP design is on the right clearly a better design.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

There is just so much slop in factory suspension that it makes adjusting it and getting good results out of it almost impossible. There is no shim stack at all just holes to shove oil through.

Lone Rider · 02-23-2009, 04:01 PM

Mmmmm Barry good
Uffda! Barry is my hero!
Barry fix Toms sacked suspension REAL good!
Barry is a GOD !!

Tom will let Barry readjust Tom's fiddling soon.

For the rest of you here is a guide I posted elsewhere to get you so frustrated you go see Barry like I did!!

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/index.html

Soon as I get the wadded up 600 street legal, Barry gets that mess too.

Go soon pilgrims as racing season is nearing and Barry will be swamped!!

Many make pilgrimage to offer suspension to God Barry to insure a good trophy crop and healthy limbs!!!!
Tom did not.

Tom had broken limbs right off and no could raise trophy one. Did manage to make doctor richer though.

Emmanuel · 05-19-2009, 12:33 AM

I've been trying to read up on all the suspension threads for quite some time, and found some decent articles online but I have to say I'm a complete noob when it comes to setting up suspension and now that Im very far from a good (or cheap) suspension tuner I want to become more self sufficient with my new 848. I figure if I ride it, I should have at least a general knowledge of how the chassis is setup. Unfortunately as a kid riding dirt and a rider over the past 5 years I've done 100% of the work on my bikes with the only exception being suspension tuning.

As everyone knows the rear on the 848 is so tight i'd probably get thrown over the clip on's with every bump I hit if it wasn't for my stomp grips. Im 6'11" 170 with out gear and it feel's like this thing was sprung for a elephant. Run's really wide in the the corners as well. That being said the usuage will be about 80% street (including some good weekend run's) and hopefully (if my wife let's me) a few trackday's.

I guess im just wondering if anyone can recommend a good online tuning guide/video that covers the basics (including how to setup the static sag/preload which is my primary concern + rebound, compression, the etc.. The basics). I know, I know spend $50 on a good tuner and I will but after I upgrade the OE suspension. I'd rather learn on it now.

Also any special tool's needed or suggested to do the tuning? Also wondering if anyone has a tool/way to set the preload (sag) without 3 guy's. I know a set of T handles is a must, but what about a static sag measure that works when doing it solo?
__________________________________________________ _______________
cell tech
GHD

fastfoodfred · 05-20-2009, 11:06 PM

How accurate are the spring sag rates on todays models? It seems like people are using more sag than listed at the beginning of the article. Why would that be?


09-10-2005, 03:32 AM	#1
beansbaxter PNW Administrator Joined: Sep 2004 From: Seattle, WA Blog Entries: 8 I Ride: ZX-10R	Suspension Tuning Guide Suspension Tuning Guide Street Bike or Road Racing Applications With incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and handling suffers, resulting in rider fatigue. Lap times can be dramatically slower and overall safety for both street and race enthusiasts is another issue. Add the frustration factor and it just makes sense to properly setup your suspension. The following guide will help you dial in your suspension for faster and safer riding both on and off the track. Basic Setup: Check the following Forks sag 25-40 mm Shock sag 25-35 mm Check chain alignment. If not correct, bike will crab walk and sprocket wear will be increased. Proper tire balance and pressure. If out of balance, there will be vibration and headshake. Steering head bearings and torque specifications, if too loose, there will be head shake at high speeds. Front-end alignment. Check wheel alignment with triple clamps. If out of alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering will suffer. Crash damage, check for proper frame geometry. Adjustment Locations on Forks Rebound adjustment (if applicable) is located near the top of the fork. Compression adjustment (if applicable) is located near the bottom of the fork. Spring preload adjustment (if applicable) is generally hex style and located at the top of the fork. FRONT FORKS: Forks: Lack of Rebound Symptoms: Forks are plush, but increasing speed causes loss of control and traction The motorcycle wallows and tends to run wide exiting the turn causing fading traction and loss of control. When taking a corner a speed, you experience front-end chatter, loss of traction and control. Aggressive input at speed lessons control and chassis attitude suffers. Front end fails to recover after aggressive input over bumpy surfaces. Solution: Insufficient rebound. Increase rebound "gradually" until control and traction are optimized and chatter is gone. Forks: Too Much Rebound Symptoms: Front end feels locked up resulting in harsh ride. Suspension packs in and fails to return, giving a harsh ride. Typically after the first bump, the bike will skip over subsequent bumps and want to tuck the front. With acceleration, the front end will tank slap or shake violently due to lack of front wheel tire contact. Solution: Too much rebound. Decrease rebound "gradually" until control and traction are optimized. Forks: Lack of Compression Symptoms: Front-end dives severely, sometimes bottoming out over heavy bumps or during aggressive breaking. Front feels soft or vague similar to lack of rebound. When bottoming, a clunk is heard. This is due to reaching the bottom of fork travel. Solution: Insufficient compression. Increase "gradually" until control and traction are optimized. Forks: Too Much Compression Symptom: Front end rides high through the corners, causing the bike to steer wide. It should maintain the pre-determined sag, which will allow the steering geometry to remain constant. Solution: Decrease compression "gradually" until bike neither bottoms or rides high. Symptom: Front end chatters or shakes entering turns. This is due to incorrect oil height and/or too much low speed compression damping. Solution: First, verify that oil height is correct. If correct, then decrease compression "gradually" until chattering and shaking ceases. Symptom: Bumps and ripples are felt directly in the triple clamps and through the chassis. This causes the front wheel to bounce over bumps. Solution: Decrease compression "gradually" until control is regained. Symptom: Ride is generally hard, and gets even harder when braking or entering turns. Solution: Decrease compression "gradually" until control is regained. REAR SHOCK: Adjustment Locations on Shocks Rebound adjustment (if applicable) is located at the bottom of the shock. Compression adjustment (if applicable) is located on the reservoir. Spring prelude is located at the top of the shock. Shock: Lack of Rebound Symptoms: The ride will feel soft or vague and as speed increases, the rear end will want to wallow and/or weave over bumpy surfaces and traction suffers. Loss of traction will cause rear end to pogo or chatter due to shock returning too fast on exiting a corner. Solution: Insufficient rebound: Increase rebound until wallowing and weaving disappears and control and traction are optimized. Shock: Too Much Rebound Symptoms: Ride is harsh, suspension control is limited and traction is lost. Rear end will pack in, forcing the bike wide in corners, due to rear squat. It will slow steering because front end is riding high. When rear end packs in, tires generally will overheat and will skip over bumps. When chopping throttle, rear end will tend to skip or hop on entries. Solution: Too much rebound. Decrease rebound "gradually" until harsh ride is gone and traction is regained. Decrease rebound to keep rear end from packing. Shock: Lack of Compression Symptoms: The bike will not turn in entering a turn. With bottoming, control and traction are lost. With excessive rear end squat, when accelerating out of corners, the bike will tend to steer wide. Solution: Insufficient compression. Increase compression "gradually until traction and control is optimized and/or excessive rear end squat is gone. Shock: Too Much Compression Symptoms: Ride is harsh, but not as bad as too much rebound. As speed increases, so does harshness. There is very little rear end squat. This will cause loss of traction/sliding. Tire will overheat. Rear end will want to kick when going over medium to large bumps. Solution: Decrease compression until harshness is gone. Decrease compression until sliding stops and traction is regained. Stock Tuning Limitations The factories plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, manufacturers install valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, KYB, Showa), matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs. Another problem with stock suspension is the springs that are used. Often they are progressive, increasing the spring rate with increased compression distance. This means that the valving is correct for only one part of the spring's travel, all other is compromise. If the factory does install a straight-rate spring, it is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with gear. The solution is to install a straight-rate spring that matches the valving for the combined weight of the bike, rider and gear to the type of riding intended. Remember Always make small adjustments, more is not always better. Always keep notes. Suspension tuning is an art, be patient. I hope you all find this helpful. Feel free to email your questions to us at info@mototechnw.com. We are always happy to help inprove your ride. Herb Varin __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-06-2005, 06:02 PM	#2
Jafar Retired Admin Joined: Oct 2004 From: Chapel Hill	where did you get this Beans?, Herb Varin is the guy who worked on my 900ss motor. he works for Eastside Ducati. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-21-2005, 04:51 PM	#4
snake Paralized with excitement Joined: May 2005 From: Spokane I Ride: GSX-R's	Nice guide. Thanks. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


01-29-2006, 11:37 AM	#5
chd Pit Crew Joined: Aug 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: K5 GSXR 1000 and a K5 GSXR 600 racebike - oh and a Monster 750	There's also some really good info at http://www.gpsuspension.com -- click on "Services", then "Tuning guide". I just had my racebike forks re-sprung and re-valved by these guys, and got a penske triple in the rear... made a HUGE difference. CD __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


01-29-2006, 12:07 PM	#6
Perferd Grade A Champion Joined: Apr 2005 From: Detroit I Ride: The Sexy woman as my avatar...	My penske is on and should be doing my forks at GP too... __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter

PNW Riders

About PNW Riders

Advertising


01-29-2006, 11:11 PM	#7
chd Pit Crew Joined: Aug 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: K5 GSXR 1000 and a K5 GSXR 600 racebike - oh and a Monster 750	Nice -- you're gonna love it. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


01-29-2006, 11:14 PM	#8
Perferd Grade A Champion Joined: Apr 2005 From: Detroit I Ride: The Sexy woman as my avatar...	I cant wait to even see the bike lol... __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


01-29-2006, 11:16 PM	#9
Perferd Grade A Champion Joined: Apr 2005 From: Detroit I Ride: The Sexy woman as my avatar...	__________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-24-2006, 04:44 PM	#10
Moto Safety Wire King Joined: Dec 2005 From: Woodinville, WA	colOn...you twit...you've only ridden that bike in your neighborhood. that shock must have less soap on it - that's what you're feeling. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-28-2006, 12:47 PM	#11
chd Pit Crew Joined: Aug 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: K5 GSXR 1000 and a K5 GSXR 600 racebike - oh and a Monster 750	Again, always something so interesting to say. What are you saying anyway? I think you should keep your immature comments to yourself from this point on. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-28-2006, 01:06 PM	#12
Moto Safety Wire King Joined: Dec 2005 From: Woodinville, WA	well sorry... it's true - you've only ridden the bike 3 times. -on you way home with it. -to my place to show me crap you bought for it. -around your street at 15 - 20mph. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-28-2006, 07:16 PM	#13
chd Pit Crew Joined: Aug 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: K5 GSXR 1000 and a K5 GSXR 600 racebike - oh and a Monster 750	So you've been stalking me now? You know how often I ride and which bike? Yeah, right. If you remember, my racebike is street-legal covertible in about 20 minutes... I've ridden it plenty to feel a suspension difference -- I'd better notice for the $$ I paid. How's your suspension by the way? Maybe you need me to come by and adjust it again for you? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


06-02-2007, 07:08 PM	#14
winter rules Pit Crew Joined: Apr 2007 From: spokane wa I Ride: 1997 cbr 600f3, kx 500	almost the same stuff as beans posted but with pics... http://www.kgrant.co.uk/Per_Handling2.htm __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


05-13-2008, 09:03 AM	#16
Dishwashing_Liquid Zone Head Joined: Jun 2007 From: Kitsap	Question What is considered a "click"? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


06-12-2008, 08:00 AM	#18
marksvfr Streetfighter Joined: Feb 2008 From: Gresham, OR I Ride: '01 CBR 600 F4i * * * * * * * * * * SOLD * * * * *	Great Guide, but think I will just take it to GP, let them do what they do best. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


06-19-2008, 10:10 PM	#19
ApexGirl WMRRA Qualifier Joined: May 2007 From: Portland, OR I Ride: 2001 SV650S	is GP the only place in town that adjusts suspensions, or are there others. Bought a used bike and the prior own was abt 100 lbs heavier then I am, so definitely need to get set set for my weight. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-14-2009, 05:05 PM	#21
GP SUSPENSION GP Suspension Joined: Dec 2008 From: Oregon City Oregon	Suspension [QUOTE=Kitsap Rider;1553339]I think there are several. Go to the Oregon road racers site and you'll find more I believe. Cant go wrong with GP though. Barry here in Seattle will dial your stuff in at a track day. Dont know if the GP guys show up at track days at PIR. I didnt notice them at PSSR track days. I strongly recommend PSSR for your 1st track day outfit. Great folks.[/QUOT It is tough to show up to every event working seven days a week starts to wear on the mind and body. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-14-2009, 05:23 PM	#22
GP SUSPENSION GP Suspension Joined: Dec 2008 From: Oregon City Oregon	Well if Bean confused you guys come see us and we can set your suspension up for you and give you some suspension tips. We love Pendleton Whiskey show up with a bottle and a couple of your buddy's and we will make your bikes handle better. And while you are there we can show you why stock suspension lacks so much due to the way manufactures try and make one size fits all when it comes to suspension and the difference a straight rate spring makes in the back instead of a progressive spring When we go through a set of forks and overhaul them we hand you back a bag of stock parts that we replace because they do not work. Come see us we do not bite the 15% off deal is still going. Hey Bean we just did an 06 ZX10 when you bringing your bike in? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-22-2009, 12:53 PM	#23
GP SUSPENSION GP Suspension Joined: Dec 2008 From: Oregon City Oregon	The truth about factory suspension The factories plan on designing a bike that works moderately well for a large section of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, manufacturers install valving with very small venturis. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension will not flow enough oil, and will experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the fork and/or shock cannot dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, KYB, Showa), matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjusters full in or out, you do not notice a difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs. I am doing a set of forks and rear shock for a PNW riders 2003 FZ1 and if you look at the factory rebound piston on the left the statement above will make sense to you the updated GP design is on the right clearly a better design. [IMG][/IMG] There is just so much slop in factory suspension that it makes adjusting it and getting good results out of it almost impossible. There is no shim stack at all just holes to shove oil through. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-23-2009, 04:01 PM	#24
Lone Rider Streetfighter Joined: Feb 2009 From: Sunny San Diego til mid nov then back to rain I Ride: Schwinn	Mmmmm Barry good Uffda! Barry is my hero! Barry fix Toms sacked suspension REAL good! Barry is a GOD !! Tom will let Barry readjust Tom's fiddling soon. For the rest of you here is a guide I posted elsewhere to get you so frustrated you go see Barry like I did!! http://www.sportrider.com/tech/index.html Soon as I get the wadded up 600 street legal, Barry gets that mess too. Go soon pilgrims as racing season is nearing and Barry will be swamped!! Many make pilgrimage to offer suspension to God Barry to insure a good trophy crop and healthy limbs!!!! Tom did not. Tom had broken limbs right off and no could raise trophy one. Did manage to make doctor richer though. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


05-19-2009, 12:33 AM	#25
Emmanuel Newbie Joined: May 2009 From: kulim,kedah	I've been trying to read up on all the suspension threads for quite some time, and found some decent articles online but I have to say I'm a complete noob when it comes to setting up suspension and now that Im very far from a good (or cheap) suspension tuner I want to become more self sufficient with my new 848. I figure if I ride it, I should have at least a general knowledge of how the chassis is setup. Unfortunately as a kid riding dirt and a rider over the past 5 years I've done 100% of the work on my bikes with the only exception being suspension tuning. As everyone knows the rear on the 848 is so tight i'd probably get thrown over the clip on's with every bump I hit if it wasn't for my stomp grips. Im 6'11" 170 with out gear and it feel's like this thing was sprung for a elephant. Run's really wide in the the corners as well. That being said the usuage will be about 80% street (including some good weekend run's) and hopefully (if my wife let's me) a few trackday's. I guess im just wondering if anyone can recommend a good online tuning guide/video that covers the basics (including how to setup the static sag/preload which is my primary concern + rebound, compression, the etc.. The basics). I know, I know spend $50 on a good tuner and I will but after I upgrade the OE suspension. I'd rather learn on it now. Also any special tool's needed or suggested to do the tuning? Also wondering if anyone has a tool/way to set the preload (sag) without 3 guy's. I know a set of T handles is a must, but what about a static sag measure that works when doing it solo? __________________________________________________ _______________ cell tech GHD __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


05-20-2009, 11:06 PM	#26
fastfoodfred Retired Joined: Mar 2006 From: spokane, wa I Ride: 2006 R6	How accurate are the spring sag rates on todays models? It seems like people are using more sag than listed at the beginning of the article. Why would that be? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode