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Old 09-06-2007, 06:34 PM   #81
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From: Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by mnewell View Post
Mobil 1 brought back the 15w-50 red cap. Hooray!

Yes, and at $19 bucks for the 5 quart at Walmart. I use it in the WRX/GTX/CX7.

I have used the car M1, 10-40wt in my ZZR. I really never noticed a difference between the MC/car formulations. But, a few extar dollars to use the MC designated oil has to me,to be worth it. Formulated differently because of the tranny and wet clutch on the bike.

I use specific car oils on my cars. Why not do the same on your bike. Easy insurance I would think.
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Old 09-06-2007, 10:48 PM   #82
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From: bellingham, wa

I Ride: water buffalo
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by mnewell View Post
Mobil 1 brought back the 15w-50 red cap. Hooray!
this the red cap your talking about?
for motorcycle?

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...1_15W-50_.aspx

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Old 09-07-2007, 09:07 AM   #83
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Joined: Jun 2007
From: Auburn, WA
Blog Entries: 14

I Ride: 2008 Yamaha YZF-R6XS & CBR600 F2
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by gpd323 View Post
I use specific car oils on my cars. Why not do the same on your bike. Easy insurance I would think.
Because there's not really any difference*? I'm running on diesel truck oil on my bike and it's been fantastic. Smoother function in the tranny and the motor responds a little faster. Rotella T FTW!

I am actually going to try the Amsoil next change to see how that goes since I run Amsoil in the cage and it's been really nice. Improved my mileage.



* Energy conserving/friction modified oil ftl.
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Old 10-11-2007, 09:39 AM   #84
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From: Woodinville, WA.

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I've used Rotella T Synthetic for years in every engine I own....my Yamaha generator, lawnmower, TTR50, my bike, truck...etc. It's an excellent oil and I have oil analysis reports to prove it. I have a buddy with a '98 VFR with over 100K miles and I convinced him a couple years back to switch. Ever since he has had 0 wear in all of his reports. Besides the fact that the price keeps going up it's still pretty damn cheap...around $16 at Wallyworld and $18 at your local Shell oil distributor for a gallon.
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Old 10-11-2007, 11:35 AM   #85
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From: Kelowna, BC Canada

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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynk View Post
As for the V-Twin crowd, the name that I hear most often is Amsoil. I'm planning on giving my bike a fresh change of it, fairly soon. I've got just shy of 1500 miles on the clock, since my 1000 mile service appointment. Right now, I'm running Screamin' Eagle Syn3; however, the word is that there are bunch of better oils out there, of which Amsoil ranks among the top, and costs about $3/quart less than H-D Syn3.

Stay away from H-D Syn3. Harley-Davidson does not have your best interests in mind. They simply purchase a cheap hydro-cracked mineral oil and re-label it H-D "Synthetic."

Read this.
http://www.amsoil.com/articlespr/art...03_hd_syn.aspx

"For the past 20 years, Harley-Davidson® has claimed its petroleum-based Genuine H-D Oil is best for the "unique requirements of Harley-Davidson® air-cooled V-twin engines." However, laboratory testing has consistently revealed that Genuine H-D Oil does not provide the best protection possible for Harley-Davidson® engines. In fact, Four-Ball Wear Tests show Harley- Davidson® 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil leaves a wear scar nearly 80 percent larger than that left by AMSOIL Synthetic 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil."


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Old 10-11-2007, 11:49 AM   #86
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From: Kelowna, BC Canada

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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Drain Fade View Post
I've used Rotella T Synthetic for years in every engine I own....my Yamaha generator, lawnmower, TTR50, my bike, truck...etc. It's an excellent oil and I have oil analysis reports to prove it. I have a buddy with a '98 VFR with over 100K miles and I convinced him a couple years back to switch. Ever since he has had 0 wear in all of his reports. Besides the fact that the price keeps going up it's still pretty damn cheap...around $16 at Wallyworld and $18 at your local Shell oil distributor for a gallon.



Read the Independent Motorcycle Oil comparison Study.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

This document reviews the physical properties and performance of a number of generally available motorcycle oils. Those
areas of review are:
1. An oil’s ability to meet the required viscosity grade of an application.
2. An oil’s ability to maintain a constant viscosity when exposed to changes in temperature.
3. An oil’s ability to retain its viscosity during use.
4. An oil’s ability to resist shearing forces and maintain its viscosity at elevated temperatures.
5. An oil’s zinc content.
6. An oil’s ability to minimize general wear.
7. An oil’s ability to minimize gear wear.
8. An oil’s ability to minimize deterioration when exposed to elevated temperatures.
9. An oil’s ability to resist volatilization when exposed to elevated temperatures.
10. An oil’s ability to maintain engine cleanliness and control acid corrosion.
11. An oil’s ability to resist foaming.
12. An oil’s ability to control rust corrosion.
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Old 10-11-2007, 01:35 PM   #87
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Technically, he said Shell Rotela T SYNTHETIC, which is 5w40. He did not state he used the 15w40.
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:11 AM   #88
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My 2 cent. One thing that needs to be taken into account on motorcycle vs. car oil is that motorcycles have their transmissions built inside the engine, thus sharing the same oil. The gears inside the tranny shear the oil molecules much quicker than that of a car's motor. The more expensive "motorcycle oils" have additives that assist in keeping the oil from being broken down as quickly as the car oils. Once the oil molecules break down, you have very little protection going on inside your motor/tranny. The clutch slipage problem is a thing of the past.
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Old 12-30-2007, 12:11 PM   #89
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From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Mee2yoo View Post
My 2 cent. One thing that needs to be taken into account on motorcycle vs. car oil is that motorcycles have their transmissions built inside the engine, thus sharing the same oil. The gears inside the tranny shear the oil molecules much quicker than that of a car's motor. The more expensive "motorcycle oils" have additives that assist in keeping the oil from being broken down as quickly as the car oils. Once the oil molecules break down, you have very little protection going on inside your motor/tranny. The clutch slipage problem is a thing of the past.
Exactly.

"Gear Performance (FZG ASTM D-5182)
Wear protection is provided by both the oil’s viscosity and its chemical additives. The greatest need for both is in the motorcycle transmission gear set. High sliding pressures, shock loading and the shearing forces applied by the gears demand a great deal from a lubricant. Motorcycle applications present a unique situation because many motorcycle engines share a
common lubrication sump with the transmission. The same oil lubricates both assemblies, yet engines place different demands on the oil than do transmissions. What may work well for one may not work well for the other. In an attempt to meet both needs, a lubricant’s performance can be compromised in both areas.

To examine gear oil performance, the ASTM test methodology D-5182 (FZG) is used. In this test, two hardened steel spur gears are partially immersed in the oil to be tested. The oil is maintained at a constant 90° C and a predetermined load is placed on the pinion gear. The gears are then rotated at 1,450 RPM for 21,700 revolutions. Finally, the gears are inspected
for scuffing (adhesive wear). If the total width of wear on the pinion gear teeth exceeds 20 mm, the test is ended. If less than 20 mm of wear is noted, additional load is placed on the pinion gear and the test is run for another 21,700 revolutions. Each time additional load is added, the test oil advances to a higher stage. The highest stage is 13. Results indicate the
stage passed by each oil.Wear is reported for the stage at which the oil failed."

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

A great example is Motul V300. This oil performs well in the combustion chamber, yet breaks down in the gears. Failed Stage 13, Total Wear in Stage 13, 320 mm

"The test shows that 58.3% of the SAE 40 grade oils and 75% of the SAE 50 grade oils passed stage 13. Note that in the SAE 40 group, Mobil 1 MX4T, Motul 300V Sport and Torco T-4SR tied with AMSOIL MCF for the best 4-ball result but scored among the lowest in the FZG gear test. In the SAE 50 group, Motul 300V Competition and Torco T-4SR tied with AMSOIL MCV for the best 4-ball result, yet scored among the lowest in the remaining 25%. FZG and 4-ball wear tests measure wear protection differently. High scores in both tests indicate superior wear protection in a variety of applications and conditions.
Only AMSOIL MCF (SAE 40) and MCV (SAE 50) placed on top in both wear tests."


ASTM (American Society of Testing and Materials). ASTM International is one of the largest voluntary standards developing organizations in the world.
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Old 07-07-2008, 01:01 AM   #90
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From: Auburn, WA

I Ride: 1996 Kaw. ZX9R; 1993 ZR-1300
I use only Amsoil in my bike (their motorcycle oil) and my car. In my Infiniti I have the oil lab tested. Nothing beats Amsoil. Believe me, at age 52, I have tried most of what is out there at least once and Amsoil is the best. Yes, you can "change the oil frequently" with cheap oil, but if it is inferior as far as critical components, a few minutes is all it takes for major damage to occur.
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Last edited by fuster; 07-07-2008 at 01:05 AM..
 
Old 07-07-2008, 10:23 AM   #91
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From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by fuster View Post
I use only Amsoil in my bike (their motorcycle oil) and my car. In my Infiniti I have the oil lab tested. Nothing beats Amsoil. Believe me, at age 52, I have tried most of what is out there at least once and Amsoil is the best. Yes, you can "change the oil frequently" with cheap oil, but if it is inferior as far as critical components, a few minutes is all it takes for major damage to occur.

Hey, check out my recent race video.

Severe Service with AMSOIL. I extend my drain interval to 6 race days.

Parts Canada Superbike National RD:2, June 29, 2008, Armour Bodies 600 Sportbike, Calgary AB. Marcel Irnie's tank camera.

http://vimeo.com/1267927
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Old 08-07-2008, 11:23 AM   #92
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From: portland

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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny-B View Post
I just one tablespoon of sand for every cup of water. The sand adds some thickness and color. My bikes run great!
try suger+water, it coats all the parts keeping them safe!
and it smells good when the rings blow out!
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Old 08-07-2008, 02:01 PM   #93
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From: Oregon City, Oregon

I Ride: 1999 CB750
I collect oil by placing drip pans outside Harley bars. When I have collected enough I cnange my oil. You see oil never stays in a Harley long enough to loose viscosity and or collect dirt. I have saved lots of money doing this kinda hate to share my secret.
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Old 08-07-2008, 04:02 PM   #94
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From: silverdale washington

I Ride: gsx-r 750 /sv650s
if you put car oil in you motorcycle and it has a wet clutch it wont really slip but at race speed and shifting hard it will start to slip a little in time it will were your clutch out and it will coast more , so spend the extra money and put the right stuff in the bike.
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Old 08-07-2008, 06:24 PM   #95
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From: silverdale washington

I Ride: gsx-r 750 /sv650s
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Irnieracing View Post
I am using 10w40 Amsoil motorcycle oil, and 5w40 Amsoil european forumla in my race car. I am also putting the 5w40 in my 88 323 daily driver.

I will change my miata oil every 15 000miles or 1 year, and my 323 every 25 000miles or 1 year. Bike oil will be changed every 2 or 3 race weekends.
i wouldnt waight that long to chainge oil in a race bike lots of people do what you are doing but the filter can only flow so much oil threw it and when you start getting clutch and metal particals in it it might starve your uper end . also you need to chainge your oil more ofted because of blow by ,it is puting small amounts of gas and sutt in your motor ,you can just smell the oil when it gets bad it will start to smell alittle like fuel.
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Old 10-11-2008, 01:52 PM   #96
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From: burien, washington

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wo...wo... so many conflicting opinions and thought based facts, apparintly all bikes are different, I am pretty much confused now... my resevoir specificaly says dot4 for brakes, it says no friction modifiers for oil and Im assuming its a wet clutch, now all of the sudden your talkin about transmission fluid? Im thinkin personal preference might be the best policy here oh and refer to your manual before using snake oil!
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:11 AM   #97
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From: Salem, Oregon

I Ride: 88 Hurricane 1k
but i thought that car oil doesn't have the stuff needed for your clutch?
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:47 PM   #98
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Joined: Feb 2006
From: Dri-Shities, WA

I Ride: GSX-R's
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Weez View Post
but i thought that car oil doesn't have the stuff needed for your clutch?
It's the opposite! Most car oils have additives & friction modifiers that cause your clutch to slip & spontaneously combust!



















Well maybe not spontaneously combust?
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Old 02-02-2009, 12:29 PM   #99
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From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
OIL ANALYSIS for my 1999 f350 7.3 Diesel. I took two samples on this report. 14500miles on the first sample.. Oil is suitable for continued use.

Viscosity is maintained, additives are maintained, and only 12ppm silicon/dirt.. thats super clean, thanks to my 15 microns "absolute efficient" AMSOIL oil filter. That is only 1ppm of dirt per 1208miles.


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Last edited by Irnieracing; 02-05-2009 at 01:01 PM..
 
Old 02-02-2009, 12:31 PM   #100
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Old 02-05-2009, 12:50 PM   #101
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From: Sunny San Diego til mid nov then back to rain

I Ride: Schwinn
Good stuff even though my pee brain only gets 15%.
After breaking in with Kawasakis dino
that stuff looked like crap in 500 miles.
I've ran the Rotella S in my 1400 for 17,000 miles .
I checked my valves at 15k and found one very clean motor with no visible wear.
I change often and put the used oil in my 250K mile pick-up with a little Lucas.
Both still run great.
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Old 02-05-2009, 12:57 PM   #102
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From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitsap Rider View Post
Good stuff even though my pee brain only gets 15%.
After breaking in with Kawasakis dino
that stuff looked like crap in 500 miles.
I've ran the Rotella S in my 1400 for 17,000 miles .
I checked my valves at 15k and found one very clean motor with no visible wear.
I change often and put the used oil in my 250K mile pick-up with a little Lucas.
Both still run great.

I recommend changing your oil before 500 miles on breakin. forsure. 500km is even too much after initial breakin. Change the oil and filter after riding 30 minutes on a brand new bike. Or put bike on dyno, then change oil.

Here are a couple reasons not to add Lucas to your pickup...
Motorcycle Oil Study: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
Gear Lube Study: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:48 AM   #103
Mofo Dr. Phil of PNW
 
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Joined: Sep 2007
From: Everett, WA

I Ride: K8 gsx-r 1000, 03 SV650S, 03 CBR 600RR (if I'm lucky), and 00 shadow 1100 VTX (if I'm super super lucky)
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Irnieracing View Post
I recommend changing your oil before 500 miles on breakin. forsure. 500km is even too much after initial breakin. Change the oil and filter after riding 30 minutes on a brand new bike. Or put bike on dyno, then change oil.

Here are a couple reasons not to add Lucas to your pickup...
Motorcycle Oil Study: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
Gear Lube Study: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf
Not trying to start a flame war here, but it seems race for Amsoil, or are a distributor for them. Therefore it increases your business to get people to use that oil. I've used numerous different brands of oil, and all of the data sheets you have provided are from Amsoil directly. How about if we see one that is an independent study from a 3rd party company that has no affiliation?

I saw one on fireblades and a member had sent in 2 different types of oil. 1 of them being Rotella T. and guess what, Rotella came back better than the motorcycle oil.

Just a little fun fact I found. linky for Rotella sheet

this website is a independent site that people can post their opinions up on.
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:25 AM   #104
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by bukwld View Post
Not trying to start a flame war here, but it seems race for Amsoil, or are a distributor for them. Therefore it increases your business to get people to use that oil. I've used numerous different brands of oil, and all of the data sheets you have provided are from Amsoil directly. How about if we see one that is an independent study from a 3rd party company that has no affiliation?

I saw one on fireblades and a member had sent in 2 different types of oil. 1 of them being Rotella T. and guess what, Rotella came back better than the motorcycle oil.

Just a little fun fact I found. linky for Rotella sheet

this website is a independent site that people can post their opinions up on.

I understand your concern. The fact is, no other company wants to post the numerous ASTM results for their own oils. They will only display the flash point, pour point, etc. They always avoid showing you the important numbers such as NOACK Volatility test (ASTM D-5800) or the Four Ball Wear Test (ASTM D-4172) = 40kg Pressure @ 150'C, 1800 RPM, 1 Hour Duration.

AMSOIL does use an independant lab. Just because AMSOIL pays for the tests, does not mean they are false results. AMSOIL not only publishes their own ASTM results, but publishes many competetors results. If the results were untrue, AMSOIL would have been sued, or charged by the FTC. AMSOIL has never been charged or sued for false marketing of any sort for over 35 years. AMSOIL has affidavits to back up all the Indepentant studies showing numerous OIL companies results. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf (last page is affidavit)

The fact is, almost all oil companies don't give a shit about you or your vehicle. It is always about profit, and from a Mobil 1 share holders perspective, every year must be bigger profits. AMSOIL is a family owned company in the USA. Amsoil is only interested in making the very best products. AMSOIL doesn't pick a price point, then create the oil.. They create the best products, then figure out the prices.

Do I make more money, selling oil ONCE PER YEAR to customers... hell no.. I would make way more selling the 5000km /3000 mile drain interval.

Instead I tell every customer, that AMSOIL 10w30 is warrantied for
1 year or 25,000 miles under Normal Service, or
1 year or 15,000 miles under Severe Service.

Up to 40,000km or 1-year drain interval is pretty amazing.

AMSOIL has been advertising extended drain intervals for 35 years.

Not to mention AMSOIL now makes OIL Filters with Efficiency @ 15 Microns per ISO 4548-12

ALL OEM paper filters are around 45 Microns Efficient per pass.

Most engine wear occurs from particles between 5-25 microns.
The small particles are able to fit in the bearing clearances, etc.. causing the damage. if your oil filter is only around 20% efficen't at 10 microns.. well its pretty useless.

Most OEM manufactuers don't have your best interests when considering OIL and filters. The OEM dealer will often lie, stating you must use our Oil, and change your oil every 5000km or your warranty will be void.

This is illegal, and goes directly against the Magnamoss act.
If your OEM dealer states this,, ask for it in writing!!!!

"The New Vehicle Warranty would not be void simply because and owner failed to use proper engine oils or did not perform maintenance at the prescribed intervals. Warranty applicability is contingency upon the cause of failure."

Service Poliicies and prodedures Department, General Motors Corporation.


Say the AMSOIL did break down before 25000miles or 1 year, and caused damage. You have the AMSOIL warranty. Your always covered.

"AMSOIL INC. warrants that the use of its lubricants will not cause mechanical damage to any mechanically sound equipment when AMSOIL INC. products are used in full compliance with the company's recommendations and instructions."

Warranty Specifics:

-Any lubricant meeting viscosity and performance specifications may be used.
-The vehicle manufacturer may not specify by brand name the products you may use in yoru vehicle.
-Cause of failure is paramount to warranty claim payment.
-Verbal notification of refusal to honor a claim is insufficient.
-The AMSOIL warranty assumes protection where teh vehicle warranty stops.


IrnieRacing HD presents ThunderBird Rally 2009, British Columbia

http://vimeo.com/3169632

Date: February 7/8, 2009
Vehicle: IrnieRacing AMSOIL Miata Racecar

Event: The Thunderbird Rally is a winter driving adventure through snow and ice covered back roads in the British Columbia interior. Following the Thunderbird route is simple, but staying out of the snow banks is not.

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Last edited by Irnieracing; 02-11-2009 at 11:31 AM..
 
Old 02-11-2009, 11:45 AM   #105
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From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
Directly from the SAE in 1988. This information is not new.

SAE study proved direct correlation between particle size and engine wear.

"The level of damage particles cause to an engine is directy related to the size of the particles. The oil stream within the engien flows between wear-sensitive surfaces that usually have clearances of between 2 and 22 microns. It is contaminants in thsi size range that pose the greatest threat as they can slip between moving components, causing a great deal of wear. "

SAE Testing
In the 1988 Correlating Lube Oil Filtration Efficiencies With Engine Wear technical paper published by the Society of Automovie Engineers, the relationship between oil filtration levels and abrasive engine wear was established. Testing determined that the wear was reduced by as much as 70 percent by switching from a 40u filter to a 15u filter. u= 98.7% efficency. (Absolute efficency)

The SAE conducted tests on a heavy-duty diesel engine and an automotive gasoline engine, and both provided consistent results.

" The micron rating of a filter, as established in a single pass efficiency type test, does an excellent job in indicating the filter's ability to remove abrasive particles in the engine lube oil system"


Today's Most Advanced Filtration Product

Ea oil Filters have been evaluated using today's benchmark test, the ISO 4548-12 multi-pass test. AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters provide 98.7 percent efficiency at 15u and up to 70 percent efficiency at 7u. Competitive filters range from approximately 85-92 percent efficiency at 15u. When it comes to removign contaminants in the most critical size range (2 to 22u), AMSOIL Ea Filters greatly outperform competitive filters."

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Old 02-11-2009, 02:09 PM   #106
Mofo Dr. Phil of PNW
 
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Joined: Sep 2007
From: Everett, WA

I Ride: K8 gsx-r 1000, 03 SV650S, 03 CBR 600RR (if I'm lucky), and 00 shadow 1100 VTX (if I'm super super lucky)
just to get this correct, Amsoil warranties their oil from causing engine issues?
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Old 02-11-2009, 04:36 PM   #107
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by bukwld View Post
just to get this correct, Amsoil warranties their oil from causing engine issues?
Yes, AMSOIL is the only Motor Oil Company / ATF / Gear Oil / available with a warranty. Each AMSOIL product has a specific warranty.

Example:
AMSOIL 0W-30 Signature Series SSO (written on back of bottle)

*Normal Service - Up to 56,000km (35,000 miles) or one year, whichever comes first in non-Severe Service, personal vehicles.

*Severe Service - Up to 28,000km (17,500 miles) or one year, whichever comes first, defined as turbo/supercharged engines, commercial or fleet vehicles, excessive idling, first and subsequent use in vehicles with over 161,000 km (100,000 miles), daily short trip driving less than 16 km (10 miles), frequent towing, plowing, hauling or dusty condition driving.

*For all other applications, follow standar OEM service intervals

*engines with modified operating conditions are excluded from extended drain recommendations.

*Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 40,200 km
(25,000 miles) (other brands at standard intervals).

*Check oil frequently to maintain proper fill levels.

As long as customers follow either the vehicle manufacturer recommendations or AMSOIL recommendations, their vehicles are warranted against failure by either the vehicle manufacturer or AMSOIL INC. AMSOIL has had minimal warranty issues and virtually no issues with dealerships.
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Last edited by Irnieracing; 02-11-2009 at 05:33 PM..
 
Old 02-11-2009, 04:57 PM   #108
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From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
More information...

"Installation or the use of special materials does not, in and of itself, void the New Vehicle Limited Warranties."
Service and Parts Operations, Chrysler Corporation


"If engine damage otherwise covered by warranty was found to be unrelated to the engine lubricant, then the consumer's practice with regard oil change intervals would not be relavant consideration, and the warranty claim would be honored."
Fuels and Lubricant Division, General Motors Research Laboratories


The Magnuson-Moss Act is a federal law which states that a manufacturer may not require the use of a specific brand of aftermarket product, including lubricants, unless that part is provided by the manufacturer free of charge. To do otherwise constitutes an infringement upon free trade.

If any representative of the vehicle dealership or manufacturer informs you that you must use a specific brand of lubricant or filter, obtain a written statement to that effect and send a copy to AMSOIL INC. AMSOIL will follow-up.

The AMSOIL warranty assumes protection where the vehicle warranty stops.AMSOIL offers complete protection to its customers through the finest line of lubricants and filters available and through the unique AMSOIL warranty. Customers following AMSOIL recommendations are protected by the AMSOIL warranty if they experience a failure caused by an AMSOIL product and the vehicle manufacturer won't honor its warranty.


It's a win win for everyone. Change your vehicle oil/ filter once per year, while reducing engine wear, increasing fuel milage, reducing waste oil, and being able to start your car in -50'C. AMSOIL ATF has a 100,000miles Normal Service drain interval warranty, or 50,000miles under Severe Service. Same goes for Severe Gear OIL. AMSOIL also makes Long Life Gear lube for truckers. Specifically engineered for extended drain intervals up to 805,000 km as set by equipment manufacturers for over-the-road trucks.

What about Propylene Glycol Antifreeze and Engine Coolant. Offers protection for 1,207,000 km/ 7 years for over-the-road diesel trucks and 402,000 km/ 7 years for gasoline vehicles. Not to mention it raises the boiling point, and is biodegradable, low toxicity.. so yah.. i run it in my racebikes. racetrack safe.

I am especially excited about the concern over reducing "used motor oil" together with the resultant air and environmental pollutants from them.

When I read the statistics and I quote.

"At present, used motor oil is the largest single source of oil pollution in our nation's waterways."

"One gallon of oil can make one million gallons of water too foul to drink and 35 ppm will kill fish."

These stats are an eye opener and a motivator to change the way we pollute.


Based on motor oil consumption research, I have implemented, in my own career, successful changes and products to my benefit. I have commercial accounts and individuals that are also benefiting from the this knowledge and the products. They are helping to drastically reduce emissions and improve our environment with these changes while saving money at the same time.
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Last edited by Irnieracing; 02-11-2009 at 05:15 PM..
 
Old 02-11-2009, 06:04 PM   #109
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From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
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Old 02-14-2009, 03:28 PM   #110
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Joined: Feb 2009
From: Sunny San Diego til mid nov then back to rain

I Ride: Schwinn
Good stuff and I havent watched Bobby yet.
Might just make a change to see.
Like the way Amsoil goes about stuff.
Also that warranty gives a goomba like Me a good feeling.
I'm gonna die on my 14 so it would be nice to limit the wear.
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Old 07-27-2009, 05:05 PM   #111
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Joined: Jul 2009
From: SFO/PDX
i used ot always run delco oil in my bikes till i blew up my old 500...

someone told me that MC oil was made to take higher temps and not break down

i'll still run delco in my liquid cooled bikes... the rest (all 2 air cool) get MC oil...

rather be safe then blow another engine!
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