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Old 09-06-2007, 05:34 PM   #81
Shredder
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Joined: Sep 2006
From: Beautiful Downtown Spanaway

I Ride: A POS times 3
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by mnewell View Post
Mobil 1 brought back the 15w-50 red cap. Hooray!

Yes, and at $19 bucks for the 5 quart at Walmart. I use it in the WRX/GTX/CX7.

I have used the car M1, 10-40wt in my ZZR. I really never noticed a difference between the MC/car formulations. But, a few extar dollars to use the MC designated oil has to me,to be worth it. Formulated differently because of the tranny and wet clutch on the bike.

I use specific car oils on my cars. Why not do the same on your bike. Easy insurance I would think.

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Old 09-06-2007, 09:48 PM   #82
Novice Racer
balut's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2006
From: bellingham, wa

I Ride: water buffalo
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by mnewell View Post
Mobil 1 brought back the 15w-50 red cap. Hooray!
this the red cap your talking about?
for motorcycle?

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...1_15W-50_.aspx

Mechanical & Technical

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Old 09-07-2007, 08:07 AM   #83
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Joined: Jun 2007
From: Auburn, WA
Blog Entries: 9

I Ride: DRZ-SM or R1
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by gpd323 View Post
I use specific car oils on my cars. Why not do the same on your bike. Easy insurance I would think.
Because there's not really any difference*? I'm running on diesel truck oil on my bike and it's been fantastic. Smoother function in the tranny and the motor responds a little faster. Rotella T FTW!

I am actually going to try the Amsoil next change to see how that goes since I run Amsoil in the cage and it's been really nice. Improved my mileage.



* Energy conserving/friction modified oil ftl.

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Old 10-11-2007, 08:39 AM   #84
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Joined: Oct 2007
From: Woodinville, WA.

I Ride: '06 zx10r
I've used Rotella T Synthetic for years in every engine I own....my Yamaha generator, lawnmower, TTR50, my bike, truck...etc. It's an excellent oil and I have oil analysis reports to prove it. I have a buddy with a '98 VFR with over 100K miles and I convinced him a couple years back to switch. Ever since he has had 0 wear in all of his reports. Besides the fact that the price keeps going up it's still pretty damn cheap...around $16 at Wallyworld and $18 at your local Shell oil distributor for a gallon.

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Old 10-11-2007, 10:35 AM   #85
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynk View Post
As for the V-Twin crowd, the name that I hear most often is Amsoil. I'm planning on giving my bike a fresh change of it, fairly soon. I've got just shy of 1500 miles on the clock, since my 1000 mile service appointment. Right now, I'm running Screamin' Eagle Syn3; however, the word is that there are bunch of better oils out there, of which Amsoil ranks among the top, and costs about $3/quart less than H-D Syn3.

Stay away from H-D Syn3. Harley-Davidson does not have your best interests in mind. They simply purchase a cheap hydro-cracked mineral oil and re-label it H-D "Synthetic."

Read this.
http://www.amsoil.com/articlespr/art...03_hd_syn.aspx

"For the past 20 years, Harley-Davidsonģ has claimed its petroleum-based Genuine H-D Oil is best for the "unique requirements of Harley-Davidsonģ air-cooled V-twin engines." However, laboratory testing has consistently revealed that Genuine H-D Oil does not provide the best protection possible for Harley-Davidsonģ engines. In fact, Four-Ball Wear Tests show Harley- Davidsonģ 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil leaves a wear scar nearly 80 percent larger than that left by AMSOIL Synthetic 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil."


Mechanical & Technical

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Old 10-11-2007, 10:49 AM   #86
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Drain Fade View Post
I've used Rotella T Synthetic for years in every engine I own....my Yamaha generator, lawnmower, TTR50, my bike, truck...etc. It's an excellent oil and I have oil analysis reports to prove it. I have a buddy with a '98 VFR with over 100K miles and I convinced him a couple years back to switch. Ever since he has had 0 wear in all of his reports. Besides the fact that the price keeps going up it's still pretty damn cheap...around $16 at Wallyworld and $18 at your local Shell oil distributor for a gallon.

Mechanical & Technical

Read the Independent Motorcycle Oil comparison Study.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

This document reviews the physical properties and performance of a number of generally available motorcycle oils. Those
areas of review are:
1. An oilís ability to meet the required viscosity grade of an application.
2. An oilís ability to maintain a constant viscosity when exposed to changes in temperature.
3. An oilís ability to retain its viscosity during use.
4. An oilís ability to resist shearing forces and maintain its viscosity at elevated temperatures.
5. An oilís zinc content.
6. An oilís ability to minimize general wear.
7. An oilís ability to minimize gear wear.
8. An oilís ability to minimize deterioration when exposed to elevated temperatures.
9. An oilís ability to resist volatilization when exposed to elevated temperatures.
10. An oilís ability to maintain engine cleanliness and control acid corrosion.
11. An oilís ability to resist foaming.
12. An oilís ability to control rust corrosion.

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Old 10-11-2007, 12:35 PM   #87
Licensed
Malfeas's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2005
From: Seattle, WA Capitol Hill

I Ride: 2000Suzuki SV650 Blue, 2004 ZRX1200R
Technically, he said Shell Rotela T SYNTHETIC, which is 5w40. He did not state he used the 15w40.

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Old 12-30-2007, 10:11 AM   #88
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Joined: Nov 2007
From: Portland, OR

I Ride: 02 Honda 919, 09 KLX250S
My 2 cent. One thing that needs to be taken into account on motorcycle vs. car oil is that motorcycles have their transmissions built inside the engine, thus sharing the same oil. The gears inside the tranny shear the oil molecules much quicker than that of a car's motor. The more expensive "motorcycle oils" have additives that assist in keeping the oil from being broken down as quickly as the car oils. Once the oil molecules break down, you have very little protection going on inside your motor/tranny. The clutch slipage problem is a thing of the past.

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Old 12-30-2007, 11:11 AM   #89
Training Wheels
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Mee2yoo View Post
My 2 cent. One thing that needs to be taken into account on motorcycle vs. car oil is that motorcycles have their transmissions built inside the engine, thus sharing the same oil. The gears inside the tranny shear the oil molecules much quicker than that of a car's motor. The more expensive "motorcycle oils" have additives that assist in keeping the oil from being broken down as quickly as the car oils. Once the oil molecules break down, you have very little protection going on inside your motor/tranny. The clutch slipage problem is a thing of the past.
Exactly.

"Gear Performance (FZG ASTM D-5182)
Wear protection is provided by both the oil’s viscosity and its chemical additives. The greatest need for both is in the motorcycle transmission gear set. High sliding pressures, shock loading and the shearing forces applied by the gears demand a great deal from a lubricant. Motorcycle applications present a unique situation because many motorcycle engines share a
common lubrication sump with the transmission. The same oil lubricates both assemblies, yet engines place different demands on the oil than do transmissions. What may work well for one may not work well for the other. In an attempt to meet both needs, a lubricant’s performance can be compromised in both areas.

To examine gear oil performance, the ASTM test methodology D-5182 (FZG) is used. In this test, two hardened steel spur gears are partially immersed in the oil to be tested. The oil is maintained at a constant 90° C and a predetermined load is placed on the pinion gear. The gears are then rotated at 1,450 RPM for 21,700 revolutions. Finally, the gears are inspected
for scuffing (adhesive wear). If the total width of wear on the pinion gear teeth exceeds 20 mm, the test is ended. If less than 20 mm of wear is noted, additional load is placed on the pinion gear and the test is run for another 21,700 revolutions. Each time additional load is added, the test oil advances to a higher stage. The highest stage is 13. Results indicate the
stage passed by each oil.Wear is reported for the stage at which the oil failed."

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

A great example is Motul V300. This oil performs well in the combustion chamber, yet breaks down in the gears. Failed Stage 13, Total Wear in Stage 13, 320 mm

"The test shows that 58.3% of the SAE 40 grade oils and 75% of the SAE 50 grade oils passed stage 13. Note that in the SAE 40 group, Mobil 1 MX4T, Motul 300V Sport and Torco T-4SR tied with AMSOIL MCF for the best 4-ball result but scored among the lowest in the FZG gear test. In the SAE 50 group, Motul 300V Competition and Torco T-4SR tied with AMSOIL MCV for the best 4-ball result, yet scored among the lowest in the remaining 25%. FZG and 4-ball wear tests measure wear protection differently. High scores in both tests indicate superior wear protection in a variety of applications and conditions.
Only AMSOIL MCF (SAE 40) and MCV (SAE 50) placed on top in both wear tests."


ASTM (American Society of Testing and Materials). ASTM International is one of the largest voluntary standards developing organizations in the world.

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Old 07-07-2008, 12:01 AM   #90
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Auburn, WA

I Ride: 1996 Kaw. ZX9R; 1993 ZR-1300; 2006 Vulcan 2000 LTD
I use only Amsoil in my bike (their motorcycle oil) and my car. In my Infiniti I have the oil lab tested. Nothing beats Amsoil. Believe me, at age 52, I have tried most of what is out there at least once and Amsoil is the best. Yes, you can "change the oil frequently" with cheap oil, but if it is inferior as far as critical components, a few minutes is all it takes for major damage to occur.

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Last edited by fuster; 07-07-2008 at 12:05 AM..
 
Old 07-07-2008, 09:23 AM   #91
Training Wheels
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by fuster View Post
I use only Amsoil in my bike (their motorcycle oil) and my car. In my Infiniti I have the oil lab tested. Nothing beats Amsoil. Believe me, at age 52, I have tried most of what is out there at least once and Amsoil is the best. Yes, you can "change the oil frequently" with cheap oil, but if it is inferior as far as critical components, a few minutes is all it takes for major damage to occur.

Hey, check out my recent race video.

Severe Service with AMSOIL. I extend my drain interval to 6 race days.

Parts Canada Superbike National RD:2, June 29, 2008, Armour Bodies 600 Sportbike, Calgary AB. Marcel Irnie's tank camera.

http://vimeo.com/1267927

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Old 08-07-2008, 10:23 AM   #92
Permit
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Joined: May 2008
From: portland

I Ride: like a ninja
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny-B View Post
I just one tablespoon of sand for every cup of water. The sand adds some thickness and color. My bikes run great!
try suger+water, it coats all the parts keeping them safe!
and it smells good when the rings blow out!

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Old 08-07-2008, 01:01 PM   #93
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Joined: Jul 2008
From: Cornelius, Oregon

I Ride: Everyday
I collect oil by placing drip pans outside Harley bars. When I have collected enough I cnange my oil. You see oil never stays in a Harley long enough to loose viscosity and or collect dirt. I have saved lots of money doing this kinda hate to share my secret.

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Old 08-07-2008, 03:02 PM   #94
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Joined: Jul 2008
From: silverdale washington

I Ride: gsx-r 750 /sv650s
if you put car oil in you motorcycle and it has a wet clutch it wont really slip but at race speed and shifting hard it will start to slip a little in time it will were your clutch out and it will coast more , so spend the extra money and put the right stuff in the bike.

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Old 08-07-2008, 05:24 PM   #95
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Joined: Jul 2008
From: silverdale washington

I Ride: gsx-r 750 /sv650s
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Irnieracing View Post
I am using 10w40 Amsoil motorcycle oil, and 5w40 Amsoil european forumla in my race car. I am also putting the 5w40 in my 88 323 daily driver.

I will change my miata oil every 15 000miles or 1 year, and my 323 every 25 000miles or 1 year. Bike oil will be changed every 2 or 3 race weekends.
Mechanical & Technical
i wouldnt waight that long to chainge oil in a race bike lots of people do what you are doing but the filter can only flow so much oil threw it and when you start getting clutch and metal particals in it it might starve your uper end . also you need to chainge your oil more ofted because of blow by ,it is puting small amounts of gas and sutt in your motor ,you can just smell the oil when it gets bad it will start to smell alittle like fuel.

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Old 10-11-2008, 12:52 PM   #96
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Joined: Sep 2008
From: burien, washington

I Ride: to forget!
wo...wo... so many conflicting opinions and thought based facts, apparintly all bikes are different, I am pretty much confused now... my resevoir specificaly says dot4 for brakes, it says no friction modifiers for oil and Im assuming its a wet clutch, now all of the sudden your talkin about transmission fluid? Im thinkin personal preference might be the best policy here oh and refer to your manual before using snake oil!

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Old 11-12-2008, 09:11 AM   #97
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Joined: Sep 2008
From: Salem, Oregon

I Ride: 88 Hurricane 1k
but i thought that car oil doesn't have the stuff needed for your clutch?

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Old 11-12-2008, 03:47 PM   #98
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FatMatt's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
From: Dri-Shities, WA

I Ride: 1972 Schwinn Sting-Ray
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Weez View Post
but i thought that car oil doesn't have the stuff needed for your clutch?
It's the opposite! Most car oils have additives & friction modifiers that cause your clutch to slip & spontaneously combust!



















Well maybe not spontaneously combust?

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Old 02-02-2009, 11:29 AM   #99
Training Wheels
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
OIL ANALYSIS for my 1999 f350 7.3 Diesel. I took two samples on this report. 14500miles on the first sample.. Oil is suitable for continued use.

Viscosity is maintained, additives are maintained, and only 12ppm silicon/dirt.. thats super clean, thanks to my 15 microns "absolute efficient" AMSOIL oil filter. That is only 1ppm of dirt per 1208miles.

Mechanical & Technical
Mechanical & Technical

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Last edited by Irnieracing; 02-05-2009 at 12:01 PM..
 
Old 02-02-2009, 11:31 AM   #100
Training Wheels
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Joined: Apr 2007
From: Kelowna, BC Canada

I Ride: 2006 zx6rr + 2008 zx6r
Mechanical & Technical

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