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Old 06-18-2012, 07:51 AM   #21
Pit Crew
Yamacrab's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
From: WA

I Ride: clean
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by james1300 View Post
So you follow this guy's advice and break your new bike.
Now what? You think he's gonna help you?
He's out NOTHING. You on the other hand get to try to get the factory
to cover your stupid mistake. Or PAY for the repairs yourself $$$
This Motoman offers BAD advice.

Keep in mind, there's always someone (like the above poster) who says "no that's wrong" or "that's bad advice" no matter what way you choose to break in your bike.

Honestly, I don't care what way you break in your bike, I only know that the way I will always break in my bikes is detailed in http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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Old 06-18-2012, 08:18 AM   #22
Superbiker
Wyckedan's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
From: Seattle, Wa

I Ride: RSV4 Factory APRC with OPRT
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by james1300 View Post
So you follow this guy's advice and break your new bike.
Now what? You think he's gonna help you?
He's out NOTHING. You on the other hand get to try to get the factory
to cover your stupid mistake. Or PAY for the repairs yourself $$$
This Motoman offers BAD advice.
What about if you break it in all slow and nice, and your rings fail to seat. You think that's any different? The Factory warranty will still apply. If it were that big a deal, they'd break it in before it ever got to the buyer

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Old 06-18-2012, 09:15 AM   #23
Licensed
fantom's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
From: The dark side

I Ride: Wrapped in leather, poly carbonate, kevlar and carbon fiber, from head to toe.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I've had great results with this as well.
But it's your bike.

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Old 06-18-2012, 10:19 AM   #24
Mr. Pickles
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Joined: May 2005
From: Spokane

I Ride: 2012 Ultra Blue Metallic Wing w Rockin' Tunes...
Old school method:

Follow the manuals recommended break-in procedure, if you don't want to VOID the warranty.

If you don't have the patience for that; you shouldn't be riding to begin with...

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Old 06-18-2012, 11:15 AM   #25
Forum Cripple
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Joined: Dec 2005
From: Seattle, WA
Blog Entries: 13

I Ride: on the Isle of Man
A lot of this advice doesn't make sense. Don't stay at one RPM for too long? You're not going to over-wear the particular spot on your tachometer. As long as the motor's running, everything in the motor is moving. You're not going to groove anything differently by running it at 5,000 RPM for 10 minutes than alternating between 2,000 RPM for 5 minutes and 8,000 RPM for 5 minutes, doing a minute at each. Either way it'll have completed 50,000 revolutions in 10 minutes.

The website linked advocates its break-in method because it seats the rings into the cylinder bores better than low-rpm, low-stress use. Every single race engine builder will tell you to use this method for a performance motor. They will ALSO tell you to warm the bike up for a solid 10 minutes and heat soak it for another 10 minutes before putting any load on it, and then to change the oil after at the 50-100 mile mark. That method does seat rings better and thus make better compression - but it causes a lot of microscopic metal flakes to get swept up by the oil. Those flakes are not friendly to bearing surfaces and the clutch.

The manufacturer's method won't cause the rings to seat as perfectly, but it's also not as critical that the user warm the bike up perfectly or change the oil so immediately. 95% of vehicle owners won't do that.. so the mfgr recommends an easier break-in procedure.

Simple.

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Old 06-18-2012, 11:18 AM   #26
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Joined: May 2011
From: LaCenter, WA

I Ride: 2003 Copper SV1K
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by tophyr View Post
A lot of this advice doesn't make sense. Don't stay at one RPM for too long? You're not going to over-wear the particular spot on your tachometer. As long as the motor's running, everything in the motor is moving. You're not going to groove anything differently by running it at 5,000 RPM for 10 minutes than alternating between 2,000 RPM for 5 minutes and 8,000 RPM for 5 minutes, doing a minute at each. Either way it'll have completed 50,000 revolutions in 10 minutes.

The website linked advocates its break-in method because it seats the rings into the cylinder bores better than low-rpm, low-stress use. Every single race engine builder will tell you to use this method for a performance motor. They will ALSO tell you to warm the bike up for a solid 10 minutes and heat soak it for another 10 minutes before putting any load on it, and then to change the oil after at the 50-100 mile mark. That method does seat rings better and thus make better compression - but it causes a lot of microscopic metal flakes to get swept up by the oil. Those flakes are not friendly to bearing surfaces and the clutch.

The manufacturer's method won't cause the rings to seat as perfectly, but it's also not as critical that the user warm the bike up perfectly or change the oil so immediately. 95% of vehicle owners won't do that.. so the mfgr recommends an easier break-in procedure.

Simple.
BOOM! Green dot.

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Old 06-18-2012, 11:29 AM   #27
Moderator
Are_Six's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2006
From: Seattle

I Ride: A badelynge of Duc's
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Blues Brothers View Post
Old school method:

Follow the manuals recommended break-in procedure, if you don't want to VOID the warranty.

If you don't have the patience for that; you shouldn't be riding to begin with...
First off all I've never known or heard of anybody "voiding" a warranty in the break in period. I know a guy who spun a cam bearing in a brand new Ducati 1098R, grenaded the whole engine. Covered under warranty no questions asked.

Do you actually know anybody this has happened to or is this just a story?

I have bought 4 bikes brand new, first 2 I broke in the factory way, last 2 the hard way. The first 2 crashed all the time, so I assume that factory break in procedure, combined with a lack of knowledge leads to crashing. Or maybe I just sucked at riding and was in way over my head.

If you watch any videos of the bike factories every single manufacturer takes a completed bike, starts it up on a dyno, they run up through the gears, and then WOT. It hits some performance spec they have set, then they box it up and ship it to you.

Once you get it it's already essentially broken in, but the procedure they have you follow is designed to minimize their liability.

The procedure this race shop has come up with is designed to maximize performance. Of course race shops look at engines as consumables, most racers spend more on tires during the course of a season than they do on engines.

Numerous people on this board will attest to the fact that either way works. So pick whichever you feel most comfortable with.

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Old 06-18-2012, 11:53 AM   #28
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Joined: Jan 2008
From: Muk, WA
Blog Entries: 4

I Ride: fast, except on the road.
Track day!

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Old 06-19-2012, 04:58 AM   #29
Licensed
acura9927's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2011
From: Seattle

I Ride: 13 CBR500R
I broke in a 2002 ZX9 by the book and it never ran that hard. And than I did the run it like you stole it ( well almost) on my new 250R and it ran a lot better. I will choose the motoman way next new bike.

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Old 06-19-2012, 09:15 AM   #30
Peg Dragger
canyon63's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
From: Olympia, WA

I Ride: a slow bike, slow
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by tophyr View Post
A lot of this advice doesn't make sense. Don't stay at one RPM for too long? You're not going to over-wear the particular spot on your tachometer. As long as the motor's running, everything in the motor is moving. You're not going to groove anything differently by running it at 5,000 RPM for 10 minutes than alternating between 2,000 RPM for 5 minutes and 8,000 RPM for 5 minutes, doing a minute at each. Either way it'll have completed 50,000 revolutions in 10 minutes.
The main cat at the dealership told me this. It only applies to the break-in period.

You go buy an $18,000 Panigale and ignore the tech when he says vary the RPMs during break in. Your bike/your money so who cares right?

He's asking for advice/opinions on break in; I had the same bike brand new, broke it in myself. Did what the book suggested and what the dealership told me, seemed to work fine.

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Last edited by canyon63; 06-19-2012 at 09:26 AM..
 
Old 06-19-2012, 09:43 AM   #31
Pit Crew
 
Joined: Jul 2009
From: past the Y

I Ride: upstream.
CajunMike,

I suggest you read the mototune article all the way through. To me, he makes a pretty good argument for his break-in method.

Don't miss this part:
“ Quote:
Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!

Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Good luck.

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Old 06-19-2012, 10:32 AM   #32
Training Wheels
CruiserDon's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
From: Salem, Or

I Ride: '97 Kaw vn1500 Custom HP
The Biggest thing is to make first oil change early ! And don't omit cleaning the screen if it has one. I always did the first change between 300 & 600 miles. Altho, I had a Yamaha that required first change at 150 miles because of a plugged up oil filter with new clutch debree ! The plates break in and the loose fibers plug up the filter & some go to screen. You don't want to run on the oil by pass at all ! That constitutes unfiltered oil !

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Old 06-19-2012, 09:42 PM   #33
Track School Dazed
james1300's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
From: CENTRAL

I Ride: When I can
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyckedan View Post
What about if you break it in all slow and nice, and your rings fail to seat. You think that's any different? The Factory warranty will still apply. If it were that big a deal, they'd break it in before it ever got to the buyer
By following the FACTORY break-in 99.9% of the time you won't have any trouble. If you do, you have followed the Factory procedure and the dealer is there to 'back you up'. If you read your manual it DOES NOT tell you to break it in 'slow and nice'.
What in general the FACTORY say's is to limit the RPM's for so many miles.
Not leaving the engine at a set RPM for a period of time.
Then increase the RPM's gradually. It also say's to very the engine RPM but, keep it off the higher RPM's until the engine has miles on it.

Most Factorys have a recommened 600 mile service. The oil is changed. (It's full of metal). Caused by the uneven internal engine surfaces mating together.
Some 600 mile check's also include a valve inspection. This is to check that one or more of the valves are not too tight. Or, too loose.

The FACTORY develops 'Break-in' procedures for a reason. They designed, developed, engineered and, slept with the engine. Developing the best product possiable.
Not following their recommended procedures is setting your investment up for failure. Maybe not right away. But down the road. After its out of it's warranty.

That MORE engines don't have trouble caused by 'Motomans' procedure is, a
testimony to the engineering talent of the Factory designers and engineers.

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Old 06-20-2012, 05:50 AM   #34
Moderator
RedKat600's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
From: LaCenter, WA

I Ride: 2003 Copper SV1K
Yes, because the factory's are ALWAYS right and can never be improved on. At all. I guess this is the end of the aftermarket development and such since the factory's do everything so well.

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Old 06-20-2012, 06:14 AM   #35
Newbie
cajunmike's Avatar
OP
 
Joined: May 2012
From: oak harbor, WA

I Ride: 2012 Ninja250R
I appreciate all the advice yall!!! im at 350 miles it sounds like a good idea to change the oil this weekend. The main thing that concerns me is the high RPMs at 60-65mph...i curious to see what this bike will do at the track after 800-1000miles??? as soon as i hit that mark, it will be at th track! I just hope I can hold out that long...I get a free track day with the purchase of my bike! i would like to be able to go over 80mph so i dont get run over....ya know

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Old 06-20-2012, 07:03 AM   #36
Ninja Master
Skwrl's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
From: seattle
Blog Entries: 2

I Ride: through T5 & T6 like it's a runway.
Well first off to break-in your new bike make sure to follow everyone's advice on this forum. I generally crack my case open and add about one liter of extra virgin olive oil, let it warm up then change the oil and the filter. Not only does the bike run better, but bitches love falafal.






Or just crack open the owners manual.

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Old 06-20-2012, 07:12 PM   #37
Newbie
cajunmike's Avatar
OP
 
Joined: May 2012
From: oak harbor, WA

I Ride: 2012 Ninja250R
I did look at my owners manual first, before i started this thread. but im sure just like most of you who responded i am extremely impatient and want to ride this bitch like i stole it! so i just wanted some imput from anyone who has had similar situations, and motoman seems to have a really good point! im gonna change my oil, look for any metal and ride the shit out of my new toy! Track Day Aug 10th in shelton, cant wait!

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Old 06-20-2012, 07:28 PM   #38
Superbiker
varment's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2009
From: Tri-city, Oregon
Blog Entries: 1

I Ride: the Kessle run in 11 parsecs...
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunmike View Post
I appreciate all the advice yall!!! im at 350 miles it sounds like a good idea to change the oil this weekend. The main thing that concerns me is the high RPMs at 60-65mph...i curious to see what this bike will do at the track after 800-1000miles??? as soon as i hit that mark, it will be at th track! I just hope I can hold out that long...I get a free track day with the purchase of my bike! i would like to be able to go over 80mph so i dont get run over....ya know
The skills you learn is the only thing that will make that 2 fiddy any faster... Which is a good thing...

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Old 06-20-2012, 10:04 PM   #39
Track School Dazed
james1300's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2005
From: CENTRAL

I Ride: When I can
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunmike View Post
I did look at my owners manual first, before i started this thread. but im sure just like most of you who responded i am extremely impatient and want to ride this bitch like i stole it! so i just wanted some imput from anyone who has had similar situations, and motoman seems to have a really good point! im gonna change my oil, look for any metal and ride the shit out of my new toy! Track Day Aug 10th in shelton, cant wait!
You sir, are a dumbass.

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Old 06-21-2012, 10:53 AM   #40
Newbie
cajunmike's Avatar
OP
 
Joined: May 2012
From: oak harbor, WA

I Ride: 2012 Ninja250R
james1300...noted!

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