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05-16-2011, 07:09 AM
| #23 |
| Permit   Joined: Jun 2010 From: North Albany, OR I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T | OK... I got the engine dry assembled this weekend to check all the specs and clearances. Unsurprisingly, the cam was out of spec for side-to-side movement. I have a thrust washer and a new oil seal on the way from CMSNL and it will hopefully be here before the next weekend. Below is the pic of the right piston at TDC before the bottom gasket had be compressed. This looks like a pretty good squish area, no? Also, you can notice the head bolts have been polished to (hopefully) help a bit with oil flow.  A bit of modeling clay has been laid down to check the valve-to-piston clearances.  Looks good to me! The valves barely made a dent on intake and the exhaust valve didn't break all the way through on the other end of things.  Dry assembled engine  And the flip side:  Not really 356 cc anymore (bumped up to 379 cc), but you get the idea...  Last edited by Sonreir; 05-16-2011 at 10:50 AM.. |
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05-18-2011, 05:42 AM
| #24 |
| Training Wheels  Joined: Aug 2008 From: walla walla, wa I Ride: '91 GSXR (electric conversion) | Outstanding project. Really impressed by the work you have put into polishing all the little detail pieces. Can I ask what you use (hardware/compounds) in your polishing process? |
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05-18-2011, 06:45 AM
| #25 |
| Permit Joined: Jun 2010 From: North Albany, OR I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T | The polishing is several grits of sand paper (120, 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and then 1200). Start off with the 120 and sand all in one direction until all the scratches and oxidation are gone. Then switch to the 220 and sand in the opposite direction until all the scratches from the 120 are gone. Go to 400 and switch directions again, etc, etc. All the sanding was done wet and by hand. After you finish with the 1200 grit, you can use metal polish with a microfiber cloth or, as I prefer, a buffing wheel. The compounds on the buffing wheel (for aluminum) are brown tripoli on a sprial or sisal sewn wheel followed by red rouge on a flannel wheel. If you're buffing steel you can use black emery on a sisal wheel followed by brown tripoli on a spiral or sisal wheel. There's some compounds specifically designed for stainless steel, but I've not had an opportunity to use them, so I can't vouch for the results. The alternator cover took about three hours to polish, from start to finish. Last edited by Sonreir; 05-19-2011 at 01:16 PM.. |
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05-19-2011, 08:37 AM
| #26 |
| Permit Joined: Jun 2010 From: North Albany, OR I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T | OK... so I'm finally starting on the seat/tail and I've done a bit more to the tank. For the seat and tail, I'm going the florist foam route and I've cut and sanded a rough shape of what I'm after. It's not too bad so far, but I have a bit more to do before I'm ready for 'glass. The tank got even more sanding and a bit more filler to take care of air bubbles and other crap from the last time around. While the tank has been sitting, it's gotten a nice coating of rust on the inside, so I'll need to deal with that now, too.   |
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05-20-2011, 12:19 PM
| #28 | |
   Joined: Mar 2006 From: Seattle I Ride: 1099cc L-Twin in a sporty arrangment | 
 What did you use to paint the Rocker cover? Kind of looks like the old cadmium coated stuff they don't do anymore. | |
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05-23-2011, 07:12 AM
| #29 |
| Permit Joined: Jun 2010 From: North Albany, OR I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T | Crazy weekend... Ended up taking the kids to the museum on Saturday and Sunday was the Oregon Vintage Motorcycle show. Between those two events and working on our garage conversion, I didn't get much time in with the "other Mrs". I did receive a new thrust washer from CMSNL on Friday and so I now have the engine assembled. I also put some paint down onto the engine mounts. Hoping to get some time to work on the tank over a few nights this week... more pics to come... |
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05-31-2011, 07:40 AM
| #31 |
| Permit Joined: Jun 2010 From: North Albany, OR I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T | OK.. screw fabbing my own tail. Fiberglass is obviously not my medium with which to work. I think I'm gonna pick up a pre-fabbed unit and modify it a bit at a time until I get the hang of this stuff... At least I did get my engine mounted up on the bike though. I also had to modify the front sprocket to get it to fit. Also put back in place is the speedo cable (still need to figure out some way of keeping the cables out of the way) and coils. Hand controls will be mounted this week and more sanding on the tank... Problem - New 18 tooth front sprocket is too wide to fit  Solution - Bench grinder and a steel straight edge  Tight fit, but I think it will work. I'll have to keep an eye out for abnormal wear.  Engine, headlight, etc mounted up - Left side  Engine, headlight, etc mounted up - Right side  |
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06-06-2011, 08:39 AM
| #32 |
| Permit Joined: Jun 2010 From: North Albany, OR I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T | Well... I took apart my engine (again) this last weekend. After doing a bit more reading, I realized the 5-part rings I received were not, in fact, three rings with two extras. *sigh* The engine is now reassembled (again, again, and again) and sitting in the bike (again). Compression is feeling STRONG now. Turning the engine over with a 14mm wrench is a bit of a chore (I already checked for valve-to-piston contact and I'm good to go). Wiring is now in progress... |
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06-09-2011, 11:08 AM
| #33 |
| Permit Joined: Jun 2010 From: North Albany, OR I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T | Front controls mounted. I stuck the headlight and tank on for the purposes of the pic so I could see how things were looking. These clubman bars are making it a bit difficult to decide what to do about the cables (clutch cable especially). They're way too long now and kind of getting in the way. I've found a place that will do shorter replacements, but at $35 for each cable, I'm not sure it's worth it. I'm going to do some research, see if I can shorten them myself somehow... Any ideas?   |
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06-10-2011, 12:30 PM
| #36 |
| Streetfighter  Joined: Jun 2006 From: The Ham I Ride: every god damn day | I got mine at my local bike shop. What he didn't have in stock he ordered for me. Just be sure to take in your old cables so you know what cable ends to get. There are however lots of site on the web with cable parts, I just don't know of any offhand. Some bicycle shops have *some* of these parts too. They'll definitely have housing, and probably cable, just likely not the end fittings. Fittings were about 50 cents each end, cable and housing was less than $1/foot for either one. I think I did my clutch and brake cable on my G3 for about $10-$15 total. PLUS that way you can route it however you like, and KNOW that they'll fit right where you want them. Add some real classy wire clamps to existing bolts (making sure they do not bind when the bars turn) and you end up with super classy custom cables.  |
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06-27-2011, 07:04 AM
| #39 |
| Permit Joined: Jun 2010 From: North Albany, OR I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T | No new photos, but I finally stopped procrastinating and got my wiring to the 90% mark. LED turn signals and headlight are all working fine along with neutral light and brake lights. I haven't yet tested the ignition system, but I'm getting there. I still need to add a secondary kill switch (this one will kill the power coming from R/R before it passes to the cap) and wire up the indicator light. I'll be stopping by the parts store on the way home from work for the necessary goodies. My front brake switch tested bad through my multimeter though. Anyone have a spare? |
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06-28-2011, 06:09 AM
| #40 |
| Permit Joined: Jun 2010 From: North Albany, OR I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T | |
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