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Old 08-24-2011, 03:32 PM   #61
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From: Duessseldorf
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonreir View Post

I know a guy with a dyno-checked CB360 with 37hp at the rear wheel. The only real modifications he's made were to bore it out to 378cc and skim the head for higher compression. Great bikes if you can work around their 40 year old technology.
Hi Sonrair,

37 HP on the REARWHEEL? You`re serious? That means the engine itself have minimum 45 HP - thats a lot. Wow! Nice to have hehe

Can you please post a link where you can get the 378 cc kits? Like said here in Europe you get all for the CJ250 but near nothing for the 360. Thats the mainreason I fear touching the engine too much unless I get a spare Motor from somewhere.

Here`s another interesting 360 Project:

http://www.caferacer.net/forum/topic...TOPIC_ID=17387

I like the ignition switch below the tank like on even older Hondas. The one from the CB 250 G fits nearly perfectly, you get the original switch in, it fits perfect to the frame cuz the CJ have alrready a place for it in front of the frame - you just have to change one hole from the switch housing.

Cool idea with the birthdays from your kids as numbers on the tail - such details makes a project real personal :-)

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Last edited by Mick360; 08-24-2011 at 03:35 PM..
 

Old 08-24-2011, 04:43 PM   #62
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From: North Albany, OR

I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
No kit available, Mick. Sorry. The pistons were bespoke and the machining was done by a local guy I know. For what it's worth, you can get the pistons from a company called Arias. Hopefully you can get them cheaper than I did now that they have the specs. Their website is here: http://www.ariaspistons.com/

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Old 08-26-2011, 06:19 AM   #63
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I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
I finally got around to picking up a compression tester so I tested the compression on the engine last night. I got 148 in the left and 149 in the right.

Honda specs say a minimum of 155 before you have to rebuild (which I've just got done doing!)

I'm OK with my readings for three reasons though:
1.) I ran the compression test cold when you're supposed to do it on an engine that is up to temp
2.) I couldn't find my teflon tape, so the fittings for the tester were just screwed together without (possibly) being sealed
3.) I realized after the fact that I had the choke on

While I was looking things over, I tested the spark as well. It's a bit weak for my tastes... Mostly yellowy-orange in color and not as fat as I'd like. I suspect a number of causes that may or may not be interrelated (older plugs, replacement of my battery with a capacitor, introduction of Hondaman ignition unit). I'll worry about that once I actually try to start the bike though.

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Old 08-26-2011, 06:56 AM   #64
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I Ride: Buell Ulysses (sold), TTR-250, BMW F650 (Sold), CBR954RR, Concours 14
Nice! Looks similar to a CB175 I built. I dropped the Honda coil and went with a Harley dyna coil. I also ditched the points and went with a pertronix.


Sean

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Old 08-26-2011, 07:00 AM   #65
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I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
Getting rid of the points is going to be a longer-term goal for me. 180° firing and relative unpopularity of the 360 (versus the 350 or 450) means there are no real electronic ignitions available. I may have to see what I can cook up...

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Old 08-26-2011, 07:23 AM   #66
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I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
Mick,

Here are those dyno stats I promised from the guy I know:

Projects

He's running 378cc (+2mm over bore) and .030" skimmed from the head for increased compression. He's also running velocity stacks and a 2:1 exhaust. As you can see, he's even running pretty rich, so maybe there's an extra pony in there somewhere.

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Old 08-26-2011, 08:27 AM   #67
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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonreir View Post
Getting rid of the points is going to be a longer-term goal for me. 180° firing and relative unpopularity of the 360 (versus the 350 or 450) means there are no real electronic ignitions available. I may have to see what I can cook up...
Viscous cycles in Portland sold me the kit. it Basically took a VW bug kit (rotor and hall sensor) and removed two poles to create the 180 firing order. They mounted the hall sensor to an old points plate and an adaptor to the end of the cam for the rotor. If you had a lathe/mill you could make one. Bateman racing might sell them as well.

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Old 08-26-2011, 10:23 AM   #68
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From: Duessseldorf
Hello Sonreir,

thanks bunches for the Dyno and the link for the pistons.

The Dyno is impressive but on other hand if you see that they are pushing out 50HP out of 250 cc engines(ok - more modern engines) we really should have a healthy base for some extra horses :-)

This guy used 450 pistons - sick:

http://home.brisnet.com.au/~jmiller/...360/index.html

:-)

Actually I would be glad if mine would running normal, it`s getting far too hot and don`t revs over 6.5K ibn the 5th. I´m not wooried that it`s not revingcuz it`s for sure something with the carbs but I´m really concerned where the heat come from. You can`t touch the engine house WITH leather glowes for more than 5 secs or you get burned. I´m clueless about the heat.

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Old 08-28-2011, 03:48 PM   #69
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Do you know if the points plate is advancing? That would definitely kill acceleration in the upper RPM range.

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Old 08-28-2011, 08:41 PM   #70
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I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
Mick,

You're probably running lean. While having the advancer not working properly would definitely cause a lack of power past 5K RPM or so, it would not likely contribute to excess heat.

Before you do anything, check your timing and clean your carbs. If you have a compression checker, test that too. You're also running CV carbs (assuming the engine is stock), so make sure the diaphrams are well sealed and free of any rips or tears. Your carbs rely on air pressure against the diaphragms to properly meter the fuel so if they are damaged, it would lead to a lean situation.

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Old 08-28-2011, 11:48 PM   #71
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From: Duessseldorf
Hello Guys,

thanks for your suggestions. I´m sure the CJ will run again. Even the former 250 motor in it brought me 30 miles home after one piston exploded completely on the highway - so my trust in this old engines is very high :-)

there been several things made on the engine before I reassembled the bike: new points, carbs cleaned 2 times, valves, new valve gaskets, carbone cleaned from cylinderhead and valves, new sparks, new gaskets in entire engine, carbs synced, camshaft chain replaced and all this stuff.

But yes I think youre right and everything points to the ignition even if points been adjusted but the ignition itself don`t been flashed with a stroboscope light.

If this will not help the oil pump or not freeoil canals could be responsible - even if the engine been cleaned well inside.

Best,
Mick

btw. I found what I love now - the old 68-75 Honda CL Scrambler. I will modify my CJ to the scrambler style in future and saw that most parts for it are available on Ebay America :-)

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Old 09-01-2011, 05:47 PM   #72
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I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
OK... got her all painted up and put back together. Home stretch now. You may notice the new velocity stack covers that arrived in the mail today. I'm currently working on upholstery for the seat while I wait for the tail light to arrive in the mail. Then it's clear coat and wrap the pipes and fire this beast up.

Projects

Projects

Projects

Projects

Projects

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Old 09-01-2011, 06:59 PM   #73
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From: Duessseldorf
Hey Sonreir,

now we getting somewhere hehe

Your bike looks very cool now - congratz to the good job you done mate!

Wich pipes you used cuz stock is 2 in 1? They look much cooler than the big stock canon.

Best,

Mick

btw. the overheating and poor power in higher revs problem was caused due the worn part behind the ignition wich changes ignition by revving.

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Old 09-01-2011, 07:51 PM   #74
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I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
Hey Mick,

The stock pipes were two into one, yeah. I replaced them with some CB360 headers and some upswept muffler adapters and replica dunstal reverse cone mufflers.

I got both from Dime City Cycles.

Here: Adapters

and here: Mufflers

Also... the part to which you are referring is known as the advancer. They're a common problem area. Even straight from the factory they have a working specification of a few degrees in either direction. I really wish I could find an electronic ignition for the 360 that didn't rely on the stock mechanical advancer....

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Old 09-02-2011, 01:26 AM   #75
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From: Duessseldorf
Hi Sonreir,

thanks for the links - looking cool with this Torpedos :-)

Reg the advancer - I have 3 CJ Engines - 2 x 250 and the 360 mounted in the bike. The advancers are the same in this 2 motor types. The milage of the 360 is unknown and the 250 `s have 27K KMs & 40 K KMs (1 mile = 1,66 km). 360 advancer totally worned out, the 27K worn out springs and not so good shaft, the best I had here is the one from the oldest motor :-( . But I had luck and found a brandnew one what I ordered.

Reg. the electronical ignition oh yes, would love to have it as well. But so far I found here only electronic ignitions from the old CB 350 and up like 400, 500, 750...

http://www.classic-bikes.de/cb-400-f...-400-four.html

Maybe thhis digital from the 350 could fit? Will ask the dealer and post what he says

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Last edited by Mick360; 09-02-2011 at 01:28 AM..
 
Old 09-02-2011, 03:19 AM   #76
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I literally cannot imagine being more jealous. a very very very cool bike

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Old 09-02-2011, 06:08 AM   #77
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Thanks, Bat. I really appreciate the kind words. I've been working on this thing for 10 months now and the finish line is just about in sight.

Mick,

Try http://www.cb450ignition.com/Index350.htm for an electronic ignition. Send an email to the guy that runs that site and let him know you need one for a 360 and not a 350. Supposedly, the only difference between the two is the size of the points plate. This kit does make use of the original advancer, but the points and condensers are removed, at least.

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Old 09-02-2011, 02:41 PM   #78
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From: Duessseldorf
damnit I get mad.... 3th advancer in...

Bike still don`t run properly but better... I wait now for the fresh, brandnew advancer and really hope I can use the bike after 3 months build....

motor get stuck at 7K rpm, after some pifs and pafs it revs up and provide power for a short wile and get down again, arghhhh!!!Engine still to hot - no sense to continue.

but - we get it done, sure :-) (or I kill myself hehe)

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Old 09-02-2011, 02:48 PM   #79
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I'm telling you, Mick, you're running lean. If the problem was the advancer, your exhaust would be hot but the engine would be cool.

Clean out the carbs and check to ensure all the passageways and jets are clean and clear. Check your float levels, too. It should be at 18mm. Also make sure the diaphrams are intact and have no rips or tears.

Excessive heat combined with low power is a textbox example of running too lean.

You can test it, too. Take the bike out to a nice long stretch of road and open it up in 5th gear. Run it at wide open throttle for a full minute. After the minute is up, immediately hit the kill switch while you pull in the clutch lever. Come to a stop and don't let the engine run at all. Pull out the spark plugs and take a look at them. I'd put money on those plugs being white. What you're wanting is a light tan color just around the inside of the ceramic insulation.

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Last edited by Sonreir; 09-02-2011 at 02:51 PM..
 
Old 09-02-2011, 03:16 PM   #80
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From: Duessseldorf
Hi Sonreir,

thanks bunches for your advice. Will do the procedure ecactly like described tomorrow (1am here now) and will report.

I know this old Hondas are reliable and run. When a piston smached completely in the former 250, bike takes me home on a distance of 40 miles - slow, but it takes me home. So my trust in this engine is huge.

My other bonsai bike - a Kawa Z250 bitches me for 3 months but runs now smothly. This old ladies just need love and lots of patience :-) patience I can`t provide all times...

Thanks!!

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