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Old 09-09-2011, 01:12 PM   #81
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Joined: Aug 2011
From: Duessseldorf
Hi Sonreir,

been busy with work and no time for the bike wich is still bitching around.

Brandnew Advancer is in, Ignitionnewly adjusted and the sparkplugs are pretty black, bike is running too rich. Even with your test they`ve been. It sucks the double amount of normal gasusage and don`t want to rev over 6K rpm - and e ngine case still getting too hot. Carbs are clean you can eat from but Bike running like nuts.

Been in the shop with the Bike but they don`t fixed it either. Strange .

You all have a good weekend!

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Old 09-15-2011, 08:34 AM   #82
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Joined: Jun 2010
From: North Albany, OR

I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
My tail light finally arrived from China last night. I drilled the tail in order to mount it and then clear coated the tail, tank, gas cap, and upper engine case right below the carbs.

I oversprayed a bit on the tail and got some runs though. Can I just sand these down with 1500 grit or should I try to buff them out with some cutting compound?

Anyway... tonight when I get home from work, I'm gonna try to start this thing up for the first time.

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Old 09-16-2011, 07:01 AM   #83
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Joined: Aug 2011
From: Duessseldorf
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonreir View Post
I'm gonna try to start this thing up for the first time.
That`s one of the greatest moments, enjoy it and good luck!!!

Hows been the quality from your china item? I made allready good and bad experiences with China & Thaisparts.

Mine is running well now - I found the bug... Unbelievable reason but true and hard to find. Left handlebar switch had a damaged cable and the electrical power going into the bike from the handle bar disturbs the ignition heavily... Needed weeks to found this, arghh.

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Old 09-16-2011, 12:42 PM   #84
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Joined: Jun 2010
From: North Albany, OR

I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
Up and running after a bit of trouble getting it started. Also, I'm not able to start it with just the capacitor. I'm having to run off the battery and some jumper cables....

Current issues are a carb boot leak on the left side causing me to run a bit lean (and associated popping). Also, idle is tracking so I suspect I may have a sync issue as well, but I'll sort out the boot leak before I do anything else.

Most worryingly, I have a steady oil leak coming from the clutch rod seal. I suppose a replacement is in order? Anyone have some tips for fixing that issue that doesn't involve cracking the cases?

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Old 09-16-2011, 06:25 PM   #85
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Joined: Jun 2010
From: North Albany, OR

I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T


OK idle is hunting and RPMs are slow to return to idle... sync issue? I'll work on tuning a bit more tomorrow.

Not sure I understand why cap isn't working, weak stator maybe? Guess I might need to re-evaluate my electrics. Going to pull oil seal around the clutch rod and inspect that as well....

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Old 09-17-2011, 05:11 PM   #86
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Joined: Aug 2011
From: Duessseldorf
Hya,

the seals are exchangable pretty easy from outside - I would exchange all 3 seals under the clutch cover.

the CJ don`t runs without battery power - even if engine run, battery get low engine will stop.

gasleaks are caused from the floats. Idle issues the idle jet, it have a very thin hole and if your gastank is not pretty clean they are filled pretty quick with dirt. you need to go through with a very thin wire. but don`t fire it up again without a filter when your tank is not 100% clean or you have them filed with dirt pretty quick again.

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Old 09-17-2011, 05:14 PM   #87
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Joined: Jun 2010
From: North Albany, OR

I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
Rechecking timing before I do anything else. I got her started with just the cap after first warming it up on the battery. Not enough power to even get out of first and as the revs would climb up a bit, the engine started to die. She currently does NOT like running under load.

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Old 09-18-2011, 06:20 PM   #88
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Joined: Jul 2010
From: Portland, Or

I Ride: 2007 Yamaha FZ6
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonreir View Post

OK idle is hunting and RPMs are slow to return to idle... sync issue? I'll work on tuning a bit more tomorrow.

Not sure I understand why cap isn't working, weak stator maybe? Guess I might need to re-evaluate my electrics. Going to pull oil seal around the clutch rod and inspect that as well....
I just tuned in, love the build. I really want to do something similiar, but I'm not sure I'm as dedicated as you are.

I know next to nothing about electrics, but my experience with and idle that won't settle down is a vacuum leak somewhere. Carb boot seals were my most recent culprit, before that is was the airbox. Pilot screw too far in, or bad pilot o-rings? I know you just rebuilt, but I'm just throwing our a few ideas. If it were purely a sync issue, I'd expect it to have a loping idle, or have one pipe pushing a lot more than the other. Have you compared the relative exhaust pressures by hand?

I've never played with velocity stacks but perhaps, if you've already replace the carb boos and have good seals at the stacks, you're just getting to much air? I had good luck with a GS650 by covering the intake with a couple layers of the blue paper shop rags. I just stretched it across and held it in place with some hose clamps. This makes it run SUPER rich, but I was better able to confirm a vacuum leak and test for it.

Good luck!

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Last edited by ejether; 09-18-2011 at 06:23 PM..
 
Old 09-18-2011, 07:51 PM   #89
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Joined: Dec 2010
From: Mukilteo
Blog Entries: 1

I Ride: As much as I can on a GS500f
Nice dude
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Gum-B View Post
Thats bad ass. making me wish i had a bike project in my garage right now.
Makes me wish I had a garage to fix up my GS

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Old 09-18-2011, 07:55 PM   #90
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Joined: Mar 2010
From: Rock Island,WA/ Volcano, HI

I Ride: ^That^
Have the carbs been re-jetted?
Lighter spring for the vacuum diaphrams?
Does it run better with the choke ON?
What do the plugs look like after you run it a few minutes?
Does the exhaust get HOT? Like SUPER HOT?

I think it be time for a carb tune.......

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Old 10-04-2011, 03:21 PM   #91
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Joined: Aug 2011
From: Duessseldorf
Hello Sonreir,

how`s your Baby doing???

Seems work starts after restauration to get this old bikes run smooth :-(

I for my part see slowly the Horizont but took sooooo long time and effort.

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Old 12-24-2011, 12:33 PM   #92
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Joined: Dec 2011
From: California
Use a sanding wheel not a grinding wheel
Use a 100 grit blue flap wheel instead of that grinder on your frame.
The damage is done now.
The frame tube is only .060 thick and you probably removed 1/3 or more of that.
The grinding wheel is overkill.

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Old 12-26-2011, 01:28 AM   #93
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Joined: Mar 2006
From: Puyallup, WA

I Ride: and fall down at the slightest sign of gravel
Have you tried idling with the headlights off? That is the only way that I can get my 360 to run with just a cap.

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Old 01-27-2012, 08:28 PM   #94
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Joined: Jun 2010
From: North Albany, OR

I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
Hey guys,

I kinda got frustrated and lost my steam there for a while. I didn't really touch the bike much in November or December and just started tinkering again.

Just today I think I've finally cracked the problem. I borrowed a timing light from my dad and when I'd set the timing (static) it was WAY off. Maybe 20° retarded? It was firing after TDC, so that was why everything was giving me such a problem.

I still need to sync the carbs and get the idle mixture right, but I think my starting point of a 120 secondary main jet was right on the money. I took it for a few high-speed passes up and down the block and aside from being told off by a neighbor, everything was awesome. The bike is pulling like a freight train through the entire rev range. I can literally feel the cam kick in around 5000 RPM.

Seems like just a few things to finish up now... I still have a small oil leak after replacing my clutch actuator seal. Maybe coming from the shift lever seal? I hope so. I'll have to crack the cases again if it's coming from the transmission. After the oil leak is sorted out I'll need to stich up a seat and wrap these pipes. I think I can call her done at that point!

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Old 01-27-2012, 08:35 PM   #95
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Beautiful!

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Old 02-08-2012, 11:40 AM   #96
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Joined: Jun 2010
From: North Albany, OR

I Ride: 1977 Honda CJ360T
Oil leak has been (mostly) fixed. I'm still getting a few drips, but it's nothing like the Valdez incident I was getting before. I think I may still be in need of another seal but it's pretty hard to track down at the moment because it's such a slow leak.

Timing is finally sorted out. There's so much overlap on my cam that I've had to advance the timing significantly. In fact, I'm running 35° out of the gate and so I'm just going to wire the advancer shut and run fixed timing.

Exhaust pipes are leaking a bit and so I'm in the process of welding those up and I'll wrap them afterwards. Carbs are still suffering from a bit of a vacuum leak and so I'm tracking down some new boots right now. Lucky, the leak is quite small and so after I open up the throttle and the vacuum drops a bit, it runs great. Video to follow at some point...

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Old 02-08-2012, 01:15 PM   #97
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Joined: Jan 2012
From: Oregon City

I Ride: 2005 V-Strom DL1000- 1984 Porsche 944- 1987 VFR750 Traded- 1985 VF500f Interceptor traded- 1976 KZ400 traded
Smile
Subscibed! Nice work on that old beast! I have been dealing with my project a 76 KZ400. It is good to see another vintage bike on here.

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Old 02-08-2012, 02:46 PM   #98
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Joined: Feb 2012
From: Lynnwood, WA

I Ride: 1998 CBR900rr for the street and 2007 CBR600rr for the track
Fantastic build thread, im truly jealous.

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Old 02-08-2012, 03:08 PM   #99
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Joined: Dec 2009
From: tigard

I Ride: 07 Triumph Bonneville
Vary cool, nice work. What kind of paint did you use for the rocker cover?

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Old 02-08-2012, 05:48 PM   #100
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Joined: Jan 2011
From: Kirkland, Washington

I Ride: '05 R6 Scooty-Puff, Sr.
That... Is...awesome! They look like so much fun (and work) but I'll stick to my fuel injected reliable bikes

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