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Old 07-09-2012, 02:13 PM   #61
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
Nope not quite!

220 fell flat @WFO..actually worse than 230.

Jumping to 250.

Isn't jetting fun.

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Old 07-09-2012, 04:02 PM   #62
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
hmm...getting the feeling the 250 is rich and the exhaust sounds kinda flat. I remember the 230 begin slightly flat. X-fingers that 240 is the sweet spot.

The 240s are in my daytona! That's on the 5th clip too. <---this tuning got me 14,000 miles out of a top end (Cougar, Carson / Vernonia / Bald Peak / Detroit Lake!), but i have the R5 carbs on it.

Judy is running to Pro Caliber for 240s.

This is why people get paid a bunch of money to jet a carb. Because it is a bi*ch.

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Old 07-09-2012, 06:17 PM   #63
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“ Quote:
Originally Posted by holypiston View Post
clea


BTW: Can anyone tell me if those are S&W period shocks or what? or maybe i should look a little closer for a decal. They look cool. Haven't seen that style in a long while.
Indeed, they are S&W shocks

I've got a set on my GPz

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Old 07-10-2012, 11:46 AM   #64
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
“ Quote:
Originally Posted by Big T View Post
Indeed, they are S&W shocks

I've got a set on my GPz
Nice, the only other new bike I owned was a retro 1990? ZR550 Zephyr. Good looking lawson style replica bike...Should have kept it.

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Old 07-10-2012, 11:49 AM   #65
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
ok...carbs looked clean, but to eliminate as much as possible. I'm soaking them in berryman's. Then i'll blow out w/ brake cleaner and finally compressed air. the left carb sounded more funky than the right. I did a pre-spray and could spray through all the passages, so that is good. I might have a partial jelly blockage like i did w/ those 84 RZ350 carbs (another P.I.T.A.).. Carbs aren't all that bad gunk wise, so I figure a 3 hour soak for each carb should loosen any varnish that might be hiding.

I had forgotten that the idle & air screws have little o-rings. I need to make a run to the hardware store and see if i can find mates. The airscrew o-rings on both carbs are highly questionable. The choke works fine, although the depressor arm has worked itself loose from vibration, but that doesn't affect the choke circuit itself...just the rivet has loosened a bit holding the arm on.

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Last edited by holypiston; 07-10-2012 at 11:53 AM..
 
Old 07-10-2012, 02:25 PM   #66
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
Good thing i soaked the left carb. Quite a bit of brownish varnish came out, even though the carb looked pretty clean. Now for the right side. Found some small o-rings at Ace Hardware. The silicone spray works better than the injector oil to press the new o-rings into place.

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Old 07-11-2012, 09:52 AM   #67
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
These bikes can be a real P.I.T.A. sometimes. I tend to struggle w/ jetting.

I found the bike now likes the stock #25 pilot! G O O D!!! & w/i range w/ these mods (#25~#30 tops usually w/stock/injection)...so progress and it's "clearing" it's throat as i blip...very good. <--guess i did have an air leak (old o-rings) in that area. Airscrews currently at 1.0 turns.

going w/ a starting 260 main (when i sold my RD before last w/ old spec IIs that is pretty much what it ended up w/) years ago.

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Old 07-11-2012, 02:01 PM   #68
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
25 pilot @ 1.5 turns sound nice and crispy. Suspect the 260 main jet is a bit rich. Will drop to 250 and see if the dull sound and slightly lumpy idle gets better. rollon felt pretty good for the needles from right out the driveway.

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Old 07-12-2012, 08:35 AM   #69
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
hmm...



I found the source of most of my troubles. Seems the o-ring for the airscrews i bought at the hardware store are slightly too big (smallest i could find).

I was wondering why my idle went to shi* this morning and pulled the airscrews...completely shredded the RD400 airscrew o-ring.

Does anyone know if yamaha even sells these tiny o-rings for the airscrews?


this is the source of my jetting confusion.

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Old 07-12-2012, 09:10 AM   #70
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I Ride: ... , '81 Yamaha XS400, 1987 Yamaha FZR1000,...
PM sent.






.

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Old 07-12-2012, 09:35 AM   #71
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
Thanks DAve....i left a msg. @ 10:32? a.m. you might be pulling a Cam right now or something.

I have the original cracked o-rings (idle & air screws) for comparison.

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Old 07-12-2012, 11:59 AM   #72
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
Curve Addict saves the day yet again. Thanks for at least the 3rd time Dave!

1st time...hot wiring my broken points wire @ the generator on FS90 to Pine Creek for my "Are Dead" 400.
2nd time---> Z1000 valve adj.
3rd times a charm....those tiny o-rings. He had at least (3) differernt sizes in packs of 25.
Alridy den!

Now i can get back to jetting this thing.

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Last edited by holypiston; 07-12-2012 at 12:01 PM.. Reason: Diamond Dave
 
Old 07-12-2012, 05:33 PM   #73
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
Well found another area where i could have had a leak. Have to make another run to Dave's since these o-rings are just slightly too small unfortunately.


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Old 07-13-2012, 04:01 PM   #74
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
Moar...

I know the main may be rich, but this chop was mainly to see if my pilot was right. Looks like i'm in the ballpark w/ the pilots. Right is the slightest of grey and why i'm not trusting the aftermarket o-rings and possibly (and will ) need to recheck the timing. To see if the right side has slipped. Also the burn line on the ground electrode to side is almost to the base, so moving to a step cooler plug...the right side didn't have a discernable burn mark and thinking might be the airleak there and quite possibly the timing again..which will be re-checked and adj. as necessary, since i am dealing w/ points (hate points). Also noted that the cooler plug had less of a popping in the cylinder and seemed to run slightly better, so i'll keep the cooler B9ES NGKs in vice B8ES. Heads have had some light performance work as i've had to go to a cooler plug for my non-gasketed o-ring style heads on my RD400.

Here's what the idle plug chop looked like. Stock pilots at the stock airscrew settings (#25 @ 1-1/2 turns). cruises well, no real issues..maybe a slight surginge...and again, why i'm waiting for O.E.M. carb orings to eliminate any air leaks. At least w/ O.E.M. I know that will pretty much be the right part. I have 3 of the 4 i need...the last one should come in 7 days from now or FRI.

current jetting:

250 main
stock needles-5th clip (rich)...any thing below this is a weak bog...NOT going there!
#25 pilot @ 1-1/2 airscrews


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Last edited by holypiston; 07-13-2012 at 04:06 PM.. Reason: specs
 
Old 07-22-2012, 04:49 PM   #75
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
update: finally got all new NOS o-rings in the carbs.

bike felt a bit flat @ 250. popped 270s in, not bad and better. I never like when i hit a flat spot, as that is lean to me. So step in the right direction. These were WFO rollons from about 25~30 mph...the 250...not liking it. 270...heh, not bad.

In other news: running too much oil in my RD400 Daytona (24:1)...thinned it out to 32:1 and down to a 220...man, not bad (2010 Spec II expansion chambers...recommended main? 220...hahaha). plugs were covered in oil and since i wasn't revving it like a racer.... you don't really feel the 220 until you got WFO and then if you shifted right (higher revs...shift at around 8 or 9k and wfo next gear...yeah buddy!) and the higher revs really pulls. midrange varies (needles are full rich also), but I'm really happy w/ the 220.

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Last edited by holypiston; 07-22-2012 at 04:51 PM.. Reason: runs best before blows...
 
Old 07-23-2012, 09:26 PM   #76
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
I'm done trying to make stock carbs work w/ expansion chambers, it's a lost cause...carbs just don't like the pipes and there's that funny hiccup I can't tune out (hate it)..blaa!!. Did the Dave Freist carb mod (200 mains, 169-P4 needle jet (cut shroud to 2mm venturi height), 5DP7 needles 4th clip, 27.5 pilot @ 1.25 turns, 2.0 airjets<---drilled out the old 0.7mm airjet. I think i finally found a use for my 169-P4 needle jets (mod calls for 169-P2s that are step leaner) that have been sitting in my "holy grail" for too long. This bike is hungry in the mids like my daytona. the P4 is a step richer. popped the 5DP7 needles on the 4th clip and went up one size on the pilot to 27.5 @ 1.25 on the airscrews. First kick sounded just about right. popped in a 200 main jet (what Dave usually recommends for his mods on a 400), then remembered an old e-mail (recommending 210 mains, same bike, same spec ii pipes and injector) and the weather when i tested this was around 63 degrees or cooler than my normal summer riding temp. I'm sure a 200 during the day and 80 degrees would be about right, but better to be just a bit rich...also helps the all important midrange. Tried 5th clip (to see what would happen), idle suffered got the feeling it was a bit rich..the slightly richer main should fix things right up. Bike overally ran better and got rid of the annoying popping on the left side...the primary needle jets i noticed fit a lot tighter inside the carb. Plus they are brand spanking new...that might help! Judy reminded me the weather is a bit cooler in Seattle, so the 210 will probably be just fine. I took the bike on the expressway and the 200 didn't feel half bad, but a bit soft, but then my 400F has a few mods, so i have to keep that in perspective. STill i think i can get a bit more out of her, so we'll see how that turns out. so that was another incentive to move just a size richer. From what i've read most people don't need to run much richer than a 210 w/ Freist mods and injector.

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Old 07-24-2012, 07:33 AM   #77
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I Ride: VFR800, BMW R100, Suzi GS850
Quite the project (well, at least tuning-wise). I love those bikes. Would love to add a 350 to the garage some day.

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Old 07-24-2012, 09:41 AM   #78
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
RDs are the easiest bike to work on. Jetting can be a hassle, but worth it when you can get a good result. The D.F. mod and the banshee x-over tube and intakes pretty much eliminate the dreaded 5k flat spot and then it hits, like these bikes inherently have. More like a 4 stroke w/ uninterrupted raise of the rpms. smooth.

One thing i learned by doing on the RZ350 is if you put spec II pipes on and try aftermarket filtration & dynojet kit, you'll get a horrible rich flat spot. The dynojet and filter work w/ the toomey pipes, but not so well w/ the spec II pipes! PUt the stock airbox & carb needles on and a UNI 2 stage filter in the airbox and only raise the main jet ONE size and you are pretty much done jetting the main jet....fini!!!, just finally fiddling w/ airscrews and the stock pilot should be it. This was just like another tuner mentioned on another 2 stroke forum. So if anyone that has an RZ350 and spec II pipes is reading this...<---heed this advice! It is good and accurate.

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Old 07-28-2012, 11:08 PM   #79
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I Ride: RD400F Daytonut
Bike is pretty much sorted now. Did a final synch (thanks for the reminder SH..so true!) for Sarah and told her to take it to Dave Freist for any fine tuning (she's not far from Dave. Who better, no?).

My GF wants to take it for a run and see how it runs w/ the 200s vice the 210 mains. Then she'll probably deliver the bike to Sarah WED I think.

So going w/ Dave's main jet recommendations (Dave Friest carb mod), here are the current settings for this bike:

200 main jets
5DP7-4 (4th clip)
169-P4 Needle jets / 2mm shroud (1 step richer...i had no 169-P2s, but this works fine)
27.5 pilot @ 1-1/4 turns
2.0 airjets
1.8 mm BTDC, Stock Oil Injection, pump shimmed a tad richer for the chambers, per spec II (older classic style expansion chambers)
RD350 Y-boot w/ Tall K&N filter
Banshee intake manifolds, crossover AND clamps
B9ES plugs w/ stock points ignition

I think the bike runs pretty well for a daily rider (me taking quick rides around town and the expressway) and I think Sarah should be pretty happy w/i.

Might try to get a short vid before the bike gets hauled off.

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Last edited by holypiston; 07-28-2012 at 11:12 PM..
 
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