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1974 Suzuki GT250

Discussion in 'Projects' started by Mel, Sep 29, 2011.

  1. New project...

    Was sitting in a field for 20+ years
    No key (ordered)
    No title
    No shift lever (ordered)


    Will start pulling the plugs and cleaning tonight/this weekend and see how things look till the key and shifter get here. Hopefully it doesn't need everything under the sun, but if it will just be a longer term project.

    Anyone with knowledge on these... tips and welcome to share their brain space :). I'll update with progress as I get there.
  2. for sitting in a field for 20 something years she looks pretty damn good!

    have fun, keep us updated!
    Batcycle likes this.

  3. james1300

    james1300 Track School Dazed

    Cool! New injecter oil (drain the old stuff out), transmission oil, fork oil. Squirt a little oil into each spark plug hole. It helps lube and seal the rings to the cylinder walls.
    Fresh spark plugs. Fresh air filters. Pull the tank and check the 'petcock screen'.
    Add a 'in-line' fuel filter between the petcock and carbs.

    'Clymer' still makes a repair manual for your bike. If it where mine, I'd get one.

    Awsome fun bike ya got there!
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2011
  4. Thanks James! That gives me a couple more things to add to the list. Clymer should be here soon...was the first thing on the search and order list :)

    Spent part of the evening trying to loosen stuck fasteners...they're now sprayed and will sit till morning...buggers!
  5. james1300

    james1300 Track School Dazed

    Last edited: Sep 30, 2011
  6. Title issue-

    Step 1- Record full VIN #
    Step 2- Go to your local licensing agency
    Step 3- Tell them there is no record available for the bike, as it hasn't been tabbed in 20+ years
    Step 4- Ask them for the pink slip stating "no record found" for WSP inspection purposes
    Step 5- Make an appointment at WSP for VIN inspection
    Step 6- Have inspection completed and license the bike

    And make sure you have a bill of sale, preferably notarized, it'll make it easier on you.

    Good luck!
  7. james1300

    james1300 Track School Dazed

    Thats Sound advise!^^^ don't put any money into it until its YOURS.
  8. GS1200....Been meaning to remind you about the bill of sale....
  9. Some pics...

    Not so clean under the seat and tank...tree/shrub debris (juniper!) and dirt

    After the initial shopvac visit

    How the lowers looked...before cleaning.

    Heads after the initial cleaning...not too bad

    Random cleaned parts (along with dog food and water dishes lol)

    New bible...volume 1 of what's sure to be many

    Air filter...figured this woulda been pretty much dust, but it held up and is fairly clean

    Gauges, after first round of cleaning...just enough effort to get the mileage off for now.

    Right side muffler

    First cylinder off

    Second cylinder has now been removed as well...but I forgot to upload the pics. More to come soon.

    Anyone needing a stock tip...WD-40, bolt removal fluid, and Seafoam are excellent options right now lol. (as well as small Suzuki parts...fasteners...) At least half had nearly stripped heads to start with. Nothin a pipe wrench can't fix though lmao.

    Everything else going fairly smoothly. I've got all the bolts in baggies and labeled where they go, as well as a notebook going with parts that were either missing or need to be replaced due to wear. Been an excellent project so far. Challenging at times, yet constant movement forward. Of course, I'm just cleaning and checking/looking right now. The real test will be when I put it back together and see if I can bring it back to life.

    I think I'm planning on taking it down to the there's some rust spots on it that could use treatment and repainting.

    Beyond that, there's chipped paint on the tank that will need to be taken care there's a big debate - Match the original color and keep the authenticity; Get it close to original; or... pick a nice color and update it? I've always been split about antiques and vintage stuff - whether to keep it as original as possible (with all it's "character"), or make it look nice. Hmmm....

    One person pointed out to me that it depends on whether I plan to sell it or keep it. will be sold some day, at some point...right?

  10. Looking good :)

    I'd stock up on steel wool if I were you! It does wonders on some of that nasty crapola!

    I can't wait to hear it run!!!
  11. Lol...ya, I didn't think of those because I already have a ton of it from other paint and wood refinishing projects. Does work really well!
  12. james1300

    james1300 Track School Dazed

  13. Wow, it's been awhile since I updated this. Have tried to get around to it a few times, then would realize I hadn't loaded the pics to photobucket yet.

    Anyway, here's the progressive grease monkey eye candy


    David vs. this case - Goliath is on the bottom... ugh. There were several fasteners that were a, hmm..."pain", but this one in particular took me 3-4 days of treating with PB Blaster, tapping (or banging) on it and getting no where. Finally I spied my pipe wrench laying there (for some other purpose) and tested it to see if I could get it into the tight spot...viola!! It worked lol. If there's a will....

    Said fastener... - "the one" that was stopping all progress in getting the motor off the frame

    Yeesh....what a mess of wires!!

    Motor and back tire well as all the tangle of electrical wires

    My poor garage... it looks like a bike exploded in there!

    before and after...head light brackets

    Mufflers...first round of cleaning...still need some work on them

    one lense cleaned (as much as possible). I put a socket inside of both these to show the difference

    Frame...treated for rust, and repainted. Pretty much as it sits now, except the center stand and swing arm have had the same treatment and been reinstalled now.

    So....where we're at... hmmm... a pretty long list of parts and work needed. I got my first shipment yesterday. It was a bit anticlimatic... $120 in parts, box a decent size...but when the UPS guy handed it to me, it was light as a feather. Oye.

    Trav87 came up last weekend and brought some tools I don't have. We checked the compression and only got 70psi out of, more stuff added to the list...and we moved on to some other areas. Rear brake drum (as expected) is shot...rust all over inside it, pads were stuck to the drum instead of the shoes. More parts of course. Carbs...unknown yet - he took them with him to have Cutback take a look and see what needs to be done.

    As of right now (not including the brakes, carbs, chain, sprockets, and a few other things) shopping list is sitting at just over $800 just to get it running...not fully road ready. That's if I go fully new OEM parts. I've got them logged and currently culling the internet for some deals on them. Definatly going to take more than 1 winter at this rate. I have house projects going too...and a kid that's always treating my purse like an ATM lol.

    Anyway...kinda bummed right now - was really looking forward to seeing what the motor sounded like last weekend...and now knowing that it will be quite a while till I get to hear it... as I said...anti-climatic. I'll continue to work on cleaning things up though. I found the color I want to paint there's one thing down (although it's the last step pretty much lol).

    ta ta for now...
  14. looks AWESOME mel.... it'll be a beauty when you're done with it that's for sure. keep it up.
  15. I love these sort of threads. Thanks, keep up the good work :)

    The gauges on my GT550 are the same. But I have seen very good results from polishing the plastic back to clear. I'm only going to use the engine and electrics from my bike. I have a cunning plan ;) for a novel rolling chassis.
  16. Thanks guys! This is my first full I'm just going for stock (and simply getting it running) for right now. I'm sure knowing me - as soon as I get it done - within 6 months I'll have it apart again and modifying things though.

    The gauge covers...yep, got em almost clear with a few different products...just yellowing from the sun left. I did a bunch of research and pretty much found that there's nothing I can do about it other than replace with new. I can see through them plenty now, so it will have to do...even though the yellowing will bother the crap out of me lol.

    I have a slight correction to the notation on one of the pics...the close up of the fastener... The one with the wrench was the PITA that was impeding the progress initially - down on the exhaust. The close up, was the real bad PITA... it was the last one in the way to getting the motor up off the frame. Stupid little thing. Had to go and buy an impact driver just to get it off...and even then I had to pound a new slot into it because it was stripped so flippin bad. I also hit the joint bone in my thumb 3 times - twice in the same spot trying to get that damn thing off (hammer + impact driver + awkward angle = OUCH!!)....So I really resent that little piece of metal. It's replacement was in the package of new shiney purtys that came yesterday. I may put the original in the burn pit, and then take a grinder to it before sentancing it to the dump.
  17. I think you should make ear rings out of those fasteners that gave you so much trouble.

    Do you have access to a sand blaster?

    Your whole attitude will change/improve when you here that engine running for the first time.

    This is a great thread, I'm subscribed.
  18. subscribed! Interesting, wonder why suzuki went w/ an off center angled plug?

    I got a great guy that does crank/head/cylinder work here in Portland (all makes two stroke). He's also worked on suzuki cranks (a relative's crank a couple times that I know of)...remember him telling me something of how important it is to keep the stock petcock on an X6? in the off position when not running. Not good for the crank rod! (hydrolock!).

    With his suggestions, I'm still rolling on 13k miles on the same cast prox piston (even enlarged the heads so i could go to bigger aftermarket from 65mm to 66mm...4 more overbores!) (still going! premixing rich at 24:1 amsoil interceptor)and when i checked my compression at 11k miles, i had 120 psi both sides. Important to note that he did my headwork (aircooled head is also now converted to a silicone O-ring head!, no more gasket), volume c.c., squish angle, boring, crank. Using a DYNA-S ignition he made plates for on my RD400. We first tried some higher compression (nice 2nd gear rollon wheelies! w/ STOCK gearing, no less!), but when i blew it up, we lowered it to stock and the bike has been aircooled two stroke i've owned. I can even get away w/ running 89 octane, but only do that in the sticks when i'm forced too. I'll take some longevity over performance any day. I'd rather ride than wrench!!!

    I found using gordon jennings calculations (have his book w/ all the math formulas) for max piston speed (3500 ft/min) max safe rpms is 8600 rpm (for my particular bike), although i can rev to 10k+,. I've been keeping it to 8500 rpm or lower, so a 2.5k rpm rev range. I think this also contributes to longevity. I get pissed if i have to rebuild more than once a year. These are old machines and on the street, i try to respect them most of the time!!!

    good luck w/ your project!
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2011
  19. Supersmallupdate...

    Cylinders will need bored also... this one just took even more of a back burner... They'll be sent in sometime in the near future - until then, I'll keep cleaning things up, and putting them back on.

    Been pretty slow going lately. Crazy busy schedule, and it's been bitter cold - so no painting the small bits right now. Of course none of the slow down has anything to do with my bank account being distracted by a pretty red thang :secret:(Daytona 675):secret: on it's way into the stalls... nah...not at all...
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