Gimme yer advice on rattle-can paint.

Discussion in 'Bellingham' started by ein54rr, Jul 12, 2012.


  1. ein54rr

    ein54rr
    Expand Collapse

    32
    0
    56
    Location:
    Bellingham, WA
    So I tried to paint my bike the cheap way: myself. I didn't do the clear coat correctly. I didn't lay it down thick enough on the final coat and got "dry spots" all over the place. I might try to wet sand lightly with 600g then give a couple more coats of clear but I'm worried that sanding what's already there might cloud up the finish that's about to be sealed in by more clear. Or will the new clear bond to, and remove the cloudiness of the original botched layer? It seems like I would have to sand anyways in order for the new coat to apply.

    If all else fails, I might just camo the whole thing as cheaply as possible. I'm getting impatient to ride again. The more impatient I grow, the less I care about aesthetics.

    Things you might ask me later: It's a Honda CBR954, I'm doing all the plastics and the tank too, I'm using Dupli-color products currently, I'm a Leo and I like long walks on the beach.
     
  2. Jeffytune

    Jeffytune
    Expand Collapse

    1,859
    0
    441
    Location:
    Beaverton
    Wet sand it with 1200, then re-shoot the clear.
     
  3. h_travis

    h_travis
    Expand Collapse

    1,592
    5
    443
    Location:
    Bellingham
    I'm no expert, but you might try experimenting with setting the can of paint in a warm bucket of water, this will pressurize the can more and may help atomize the paint as it sprays, resulting in a finer mist. May help you get more even thin coats. Just don't get the can too hot, like 110 to 115 degrees should be good. There should be a max storage temp rating in the fine print. Don't exceed it. Good luck man
     
  4. ein54rr

    ein54rr
    Expand Collapse

    32
    0
    56
    Location:
    Bellingham, WA
    I was told the exact same thing by an auto-body guy before I started. It definitely helped. The black paint under the clear came out alright, better than it should have considering this is my first time. I should have done the clear in slower passes, holding the can a bit closer.

    I'll give that 1200g a shot. I'm hoping to bring this chapter to a close and get this bad mother finished up this weekend.
     
  5. Oddball

    Oddball
    Expand Collapse

    10
    0
    51
    Location:
    Bellingham, WA
    Has anybody else gotten good results with a rattle can?

    As ein knows, I painted my bike this way and it turned out pretty decent for gloss black. I used many coats and a lot of paint. I used Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel - "Premium Automotive Formulation".
     
  6. nsrg500

    nsrg500
    Expand Collapse

    2,005
    0
    416
    Location:
    Everett. WA
    I didn't paint these parts but wet sanding and buffing got it presentable.
    Might have looked really nice if it wasn't so thin.
    I was much much worse in 3D. All the panels looked like this >>

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I can't say what brand of paint it was. It was very soft and sanded easily.
    Too thin in most places.
    From 10+ feet away it looks fine. :roll:
    I have like $200 cash into it.

    So in my opinion you can get some reasonable results with a Bomb can.
    The smaller the part the easier it is to make it look nice.

    My 2C anyway.:evil4:
    :popcorn:
     
  7. ITSME

    ITSME
    Expand Collapse

    723
    0
    266
    Location:
    FERNDALE
  8. cbrider

    cbrider
    Expand Collapse

    413
    0
    116
    Location:
    puyallup
    bomb cans use old school lacquer. do like 6-8 coats that are just wet enough to not look dry and let it dry till it doesnt indent with a fingernal. then wet sand with 1000 to knock down the orange peel then do 3-4 wet coats but dont run it, then let it dry really good. wet sand 1500 2000 then buff. it will look really good. Or do it the easy way and buy some cheap 2k clear and a harbor freight gun or spray max 2k spray cans that wesco carries works really good for small parts. using a catylized product will give you a very durable and glossy oem like finish.
     
  9. Andy Capp

    Andy Capp
    Expand Collapse

    5,283
    5
    768
    Location:
    Marysville, WA
    +1 on Spray max 2k. I did my track fairings and tank with 3? Cans. It was thinner than I would have liked but I don't have a gun. Cans add up quick and I didn't want to spend too much. 2.5 years later it still gets compliments 8)

    I would have thought you could carefully knock down what you've done without taking any colour (be real careful if you colour was thin!) and re-coat. Maybe 800gt? If you get the clear on well enough you can, prettify it with rubbing compound and wax, after a couple of weeks when it is really dry. A good shine (if that's your goal) will hide a few sins.

    I'm not expert either but I did make loads of mistakes to learn from. Travis gave a good tip. The can needs to be at least ~70 degrees to spray well. I used the warm water trick myself when it was too cold to be doing any kinnd of painting in my shed.
     
Loading...
Similar Threads Forum Date
gimme opinions....someone? Mechanical & Technical Jan 31, 2009
Gimme money for cryin' out loud! Motorcycle Talk Jul 20, 2007
Need some advice Bellingham Aug 9, 2015
Ride Advice in Washington Mountain Ranges Bellingham Jul 21, 2015
Can I get some repair advice??? Mechanical & Technical Jun 28, 2015

Share This Page