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How to make the right offer on a bike?

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Talk' started by gvtwest, Jul 11, 2012.

  1. Nobody likes to be lowballed.
    I'm on the market for 600-750cc sports motorcycle. I do not want to offend anyone with too low offer but I do not want to pay too much.
    Can anyone explain how to figure out the right price for a certain bike?
    Should I use KBB? If it was down?
    It looks like everyone wants close to kbb retail value (representative of dealers' asking prices for a used unit in excellent condition) or above.
    It's funny how people say all the time that "bike was down by previous owner". Nobody wants to admit that they dropped the bike?


    I just got this absolutely beautiful 2009 Honda CBR600RR with 547 miles!
    Thanks everyone for advice!
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2012
  2. KevinD

    KevinD Modulator Staff Member

    As a seller I expect it.
    I'm real good at saying, "NO!"

    Offer what it's worth to you, and not a dime more.
    If the seller like what he hears, he'll take your offer.
    At worst, he says no, or counters.

    You also need to be reasonable in your offers.
    Check eBay completed auctions to see what bikes like you want have been selling for nationwide, and in your area.
    KBB or Edmunds is a good reference to start from, as well.
    But in the end, only you know what you're willing to pay for what you want.

    It may take a while, especially this time of year, but you'll get the bike you want at a fair price if you just keep shopping.

    Last edited: Jul 11, 2012

  3. most sellers think their bikes worth more than market value. Almost all buyers disagree. A a buyer, I will try my best to get the price I want. So lowball or not---it's a mind game. JUST REMEMBER: YOUR BEST DEAL IS NOT ALWAYS THE WORST DEAL OF THE SELLER.

    Also it better to blame on other for the neglectly, abuse or drop of the bike----HEY, I ALWAYS ALWAYS BABY MY BIKE---:)

    This forum has lots of decent deals. CL is good but mostly BS stuff.
  4. Just make an offer...

    Don't say "well, KBB is this, and this and this... and i see this little scratch here, and here... blah blah blah."

    Just say: "Hey, I have $xxxx, and I'd like to buy your bike. Let me know if you'll take it, thanks."

    Says no, then move on, if yes, you have a bike!

    But don't screw around either. Have the cash, ready to go.
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2012
  5. Thanks for your feedback. I thought that it was a good time to buy a bike right now because whoever wanted to ride already got their bikes, is it correct?

    This is a BUYERS market, the number of people that can actually afford a bike that want to afford a bike is very few, right?
  6. It depends on how bad someone wants to sell.

    This isn't the house market. A lot of people can afford to sit on a $4000 bike, especially when it's nice outside.
  7. In my experience KBB can be way off on prices for bikes more than 2-3 years old. i look at what bikes are selling for on ebay/craigslist, kbb, nada, then look at the specific bike, if its mint and well cared for its worth more than market value, a little beat up-less, if the maintenance isnt done/parts are missing-a lot less, salvage title-about 60% of clean title (to me, this varies wildly person to person)

    The biggest thing for me is dont try to tell anyone what their stuff is worth, you'll just insult them, just be clear what you're willing to pay and make an offer.

    Be willing to walk away if they say no or you feel like youre being lied to, I've bought a few bikes by walking away and coming back later to a better price.
  8. late fall is the time to buy, when the weather is nice people are thinking about riding, when its getting cold people are thinking about space in the garage and storage fees...
  9. [/QUOTE]This is a BUYERS market, the number of people that can actually afford a bike that want to afford a bike is very few, right?[/QUOTE]

    Not this time of the year.

    Nice weather = bike + rider + beer (so sellers tend to jack the price up for beer, right---:))
  10. Some sellers want a lot of beer)))
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2012
  11. Bluuu

    Bluuu Señor verde

    I always offer less than someone is asking. Not a ridiculous amount, but something substantial. I'm also assuming they're asking more than they are willing to take. I would if I'm selling.

    If they take it, great. I got a better deal than I was willing to accept. If they don't, I have room to negotiate up to their counter offer, so long as their counter isn't above what I'm willing to pay.

    The one thing I always hate is if they immediately take my first offer without any hesitation. That means I probably left money on the table and I try not to do that.

    I'm not out to screw anybody. They can always say no. But I want the best deal I can get for myself.

    Example: somebody has an 07 r6 and wants $5,000. I'm willing to pay $4,500. I offer $4,000.
  12. When I bought my R6, I offered WAY below what he was asking, he said yes with no hesitation. Pretty sure I could have gone lower. You never know what they might say, doesn't hurt anything to ask
  13. Best deals are before Xmas...or right after. As mentioned, offer what makes you feel like you got a good deal, if the seller says no, give him your number and move on. He may call you back when he realizes it really isn't made out of gold.
  14. Dragon Rider

    Dragon Rider Post Whore (In Training)

    I often say I can offer "x%" of your asking price, that way it seems better, ie everybody was happy with 80% on a test, and was thrilled with 90% (an A-)

    but 80% of a 2,000 asking price is 1,600, seems lower when you do the math, but not so bad when you do the percentages.

    this stops working when you are offering way less, like say half, of the asking price

    mathematically, this works best on high $$ sales, is 80% of a 20,000 asking is 16,000. Same % , but much lower $$
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2012
  15. Pretty much what was said above, and I'll add that only you know what this right price is. If it's the color you want, or has a pretty cool unobtanium heel guard you might think it's a fair price when the guy before you turned it down.

    I've hosed myself before buying a bike on a sunny day and seeing guys out riding on the way to look at the bike. The inner dialogue becomes "Do I wanna keep shopping, or do I wanna ride this home? Fuck it, let's go"

    Just like anything else, start with finding as many of the same models on Craigslist and Ebay as possible. Cross reference with KBB. Sit on them all. Read the seller to see if how low you can go. Bring a hot girl with a tight fitting shirt to bat her eyelashes at him too.
  16. Bahaha
  17. james1300

    james1300 Track School Dazed

    Contact (3) {insert Brand and model} bike dealers.
    Ask them "If you had this bike on your floor with these options , miles and, condition.' What would you ask for it"?

    Throw out the High and Low quotes. The Middle price remaining is what 'Fair Market Value for your area would be.

    Usually if you explain to the seller how you came up with your offer, they will respect your efforts. Also, get the bike to a 'dealer' and spend an hour shop time. That hour will tell you alot about the bike. Hidden crash damage, brake condition, Chain and sprocket condition, tires and charging system condition.
    This info can and should be used to 'bargin' with the seller.
    If the seller won't submit their bike for inspection prior to the sale. Walk. There are alot of bike for sale.

    REMEMBER: 'They are trying to buy your money with their bike'.
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2012
  18. Bluuu

    Bluuu Señor verde

    In your case I don't think I'd beat myself up too badly for leaving a little money on the table. You got a steal of a deal.

    You're right, no harm in asking. Closed mouths don't get fed.
  19. First off, this is America, anyone can ask anyprice for anything they care too.

    There is no such thing as lowball, this is a made up term propagated by seller who want too much.

    The proper way to buy a used vehicle, is to first inspect it, then have a qualified repair shop (Or dealership) do a used vehicle inspection on it. Then asked to see the service records.
    Lastly, check Kelly blue book for the private party value, no the resale value and not the trade in value, private party valve.

    Take this price, deduct the cost of needed repairs to make the in top shape and the cost of any needed services, and that is what that vehicle is really worth.

    For example....

    A 2007 motorcycle that is worth lets say 8,500.00.
    The inspection shows that the last service was not done, the brake pads are in need of replacement and the tires are worn to replacement.



    This would be the fair price as long as there are no cosmetic issue needing to be addressed, that would be in there inspection as well.

    Now, if the seller disagrees with this (And you should talked this over with them before laying out the cost for the inspections) You can counter with If you have your repair shop repair (With receipts) that the work has been done, then you would be more willing to go higher, but the fair value is what it is.
    And do not let them say "Oh, I can do all this for you" BS, he will only band aid it and shove it off on you, you want receipts for a repair shop.
  20. In your example then every 5 year old bike should have brand new brakes and brand new tires?

    I understand the concept you're trying to get across but I don't think you should expect to get 100% of the repair costs deducted from the price. If the bike is unsafe to ride then the cost to get it road-worthy is reasonable but if the brakes have 50% life left I wouldn't expect to get $225 off.
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