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Kim 625 question

Discussion in 'Mechanical & Technical' started by dragracer1951, Apr 17, 2012.

  1. 05 625 smc
    Countershaft seal
    Been through 2 of me in 300 miles
    New sleeve, O ring, seal
    No nicks in the seal bore
    Lock tite the nut and splines
    Last one lasted less than a mile

    Any tricks of the trade would be most appreciated
  2. Bearing shot? When you said new sleeve, are you talking about a speedy sleeve on the shafts itself? Those actually work if the shafts is worn down a bit, where the seal rides.

  3. Actually, that has the spring loaded inner seal, right? I would guess the spring came off during installation. No pressure on the shafts.
  4. Jim, i feel stupid for asking this, but.................

    You ARE putting some really good grease in the lips of the seal when installing right?

    Please don't smack me for asking..............I know you have FORGOTTEN more than i will ever know about bike stuff.............
  5. Have you checked SMJ? There is lots of good info about KTM fixes. Here is 1 thread I found. Clicky
  6. I did grease the seal.
    I think it may have been the alum CS nut is toast.
    Im ordering another O ring, bearing, washer and nut this evening
    We'll give it another shot

    I read that thread. Good stuff.
    I'm normally not in favor of high temp sealant, but I may have to rethink my position on that....
  7. Are you over filling it with oil? I know the XR650R is notorious for blowing out the counter shaft seal if you put too much oil in. Being dry sump motors a lot of people get the oil level wrong and blow out seals.
  8. Nope...
    Filled it per the manual.
  9. shelbyguy

    shelbyguy Picture Whore

    i got nothing to add here.

    sorry its being a pain Jim
  10. Aint no thing Norm...
    Not like it wuz a Blazer or sumpin...
    Gotta call Munns
  11. Good luck, the only thing I can add about the over fill is since you have the kick start lever. Give that a few pumps (with kill switch pressed) when you drain your oil, to make sure everything possible is out. Then fill to the factory spec. Like Pete mentioned I'm sure you know all the tricks but hey the manual doesn't always say that stuff.

    The SXV is also notorious for overfilling, there is no kickstart so I usually go 20-30cc below spec then top up after warming up. I try to keep it right at the min level too, now that I've resealed the thing...
  12. Jim, does it use that spring washer like mine? The tapered one? I had oil leak issues, turned out seal was fine, but the spring tension of the washer was weak, allowing the o-ring to weep oil. Replaced it, and all sat. Not a drop since.
  13. I'm thinking over that few miles it is eccentricity. Is it bearings both ends of the shaft? Or does it sit in a bushing the other end?

    Dirt? Is there a way to make a sprocket cover or install a delrin washer to make a suedo labyrinth seal? Change the seal profile?
  14. Pete
    mine has a nut. I think yours has a bolt. The spring washers are different.
    There is a sleeve that goes over the shaft with an Oring on its face that rides against the inner bearing race face. That's pushed by the sprocket against the sleeve. There is a spring washer and then the nut.
    The nut is aluminum and I think mines toast.
    I'll know when I get home.
    But I'm jsut going to order a new one anyway.
    In fact...I'll order two of everything I need and call it a day.
    I'm really starting to think sealant around the seal also...
  15. shelbyguy

    shelbyguy Picture Whore

    too much pressure in the motor?

    vents working well?
  16. It ran fine before.
    Had a small leak that I "fixed"
    I'm pretty sure it's the nut that loosened.
  17. On Seals for oil, you should never use grease, you use the oil that it is to seal.

    Also, get yourself some plastic sheet covers used for page dividers (You can get this at Fred Meyers or any office supply). Cut out a piece large enough to roll up and place it inside the seal lip, oil it with again, the oil it is to seal and now place the rolled sheet over the shaft, now slide the seal into place. This will protect the seal lip front getting cut by the shaft, and keep the inner spring in place while you PUSH it onto place. I find gaskacinch, a light coating on the outside of the seals body will help it slide into place. You should avoid hammering it into place and this can cause the inner spring to dislodge. Sometimes you have to hammer, when you do, you light taps and work it down evenly.


    After you get the seal going into the bore, pull the plastic out and then push the seal the rest of the way home and you should be good to go.
  18. PeteN95

    PeteN95 Moderator Staff Member

    If you need to fix an oil leak, go to the expert! ^^ crackup:
  19. shelbyguy

    shelbyguy Picture Whore

  20. The sleeve isn't spinning on the shaft chewing up the o-ring?
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