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Lock stuck on gas tank of Ninja 650r

Discussion in 'Mechanical & Technical' started by XxNuTsxX, Aug 18, 2009.


  1. XxNuTsxX

    XxNuTsxX
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    How's it goin everyone, been a LONG time since I posted (forgot my password and laziness just took over from there :p), but I need help.

    So my bike was sitting for about three weeks due to a flat tire and lack of funds to replace it, and I'd go out to start it every now and then, but I never opened the fuel tank..

    I got the new tire, and the other day when I went to fill up (as it was empty), I was unable to get my lock to open on my gas tank. I tried applying a lot of pressure, tried using the spare key, nothing. There was white oxidation around the key hole, but I didn't think TOO much of it since it had been there awhile and my roommates ZZR has the same thing and it doesn't cause any problems.

    So I took it home, tried using lock-ease, no luck. Tried using WD40, no luck. I then thought maybe there was a small something placed into the key hole, so I tried using needles, pins and tweezers, no luck.

    Does anyone have any idea what problem I could be having, or how to fix it?? It's a 2007 Ninja 650r by the way...

    Anything helps..

    Thanks guys/gals

    -Nuts
     
  2. pjd

    pjd
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    Try pressing down on the cap and turning the key...I notice on my Z1000 that sometimes I have to do that to get the key to turn.
     
  3. XxNuTsxX

    XxNuTsxX
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    Ya I've tried this too, that used to happen a lot too before this all started going down. I figured that maybe it was just a little stuck after not being opened for awhile but after I bent a key I realized it was being a bit more then stubborn :p
     
  4. SatansPetFerret

    SatansPetFerret
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    Try posting in Mechanical/Technical instead of Classifieds.


    Oh, and what you're looking for is Graphite Powder.
     
  5. vagrant

    vagrant
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    Bumping this thread. Where does one find graphite powder?

    Barely managed to get home tonight cause my tank lock is seized. Nearly snapped my key off in it and I can't find my spare.......:rant
     
  6. mustang1

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    super glue leave a white haze. try fingernail polish remover. if it works you need to kick someones ass.
     
  7. mustang1

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    graphite powder= auto parts store , walmart, locksmith shop. pretty common.
     
  8. vagrant

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    thanks. no one was fucking with me luckily. fixed with a good "key fucking" after several soaks with wd. gonna pickup some graphite powder/lube for a longer term fix. I think its the rain. I actually ride my bike in the rain (crazy I know).
     
  9. coastiepete

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    had same shit happen on old R6. WD-40 is weak sauce. PB Blaster FTW. WAAAAAAY stronger. Want proof? get some styrofoam cups. spray a little bit of your favorite penetrating oil in each. the strongest eats the styrofoam fastest. Betcha the PB Blaster wins:) Anyways, once you get some PB blaster and free it up, maintain it with a good quality lithium grease. the kind that comes in aerosol, not tube. spray it in there every once in a while, and you will be all good!
     
  10. FZ6Rider

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    Good screw driver and a hammer will open anything.
    Wana bet? LOL

    I bough a tank without a key and needed to change for matching locks - screw driver and a good twist.
     
  11. Outofsync

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    Why is this in Classifieds?
     
  12. coastiepete

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    To make you mad...........:thefinge:
     
  13. Outofsync

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    Lol, it didn't work... It confuselated me though..
     
  14. coastiepete

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    Lol. Your edumacation dazzles me
     
  15. Gusgus

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    I was a locksmith for years.
    Graphite is not going to help you.
    The reason graphite is a good lock lube is it doesn't attract dust or dirt.

    It won't do anything for your non-functional lock.

    The oxidation you see (if no foul play is suspected) is eating the "wafers" in the lock. Force will just make it worse.

    The quickest possible fix would be try rocking the key in the slot while trying to turn it. Rocking with no turning force then try to turn it, rock a little further and try to turn it again, continue this method and see if you can find the place it will open. Go both directions many times. Sometimes pulling the key out a smidge and attempting to turn it works well. Experiment before damaging it further.

    Any lube like WD-40 will work best for getting it to open. graphite is not good for your injection system, carbs or pistons. Avoid this until you have a good working lock and then use sparingly, if at all.

    The rock method works often for the trouble you describe, unless the corrosion consumed a spring or 2 in the lock. Then as the one guy suggested a screwdriver and hammer might be the only way in.

    But my second direction (before the screwdriver) would be a locksmith and have him open it.
    It won't be cheap, but he can open, replace and key it as it was, if the rock method hasn't allowed you to open it.

    Good luck.
     
  16. Outofsync

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    crackup::mfclap:crackup::mfclap:
     
  17. vagrant

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    Thanks Gusgus, I'll remember this NEXT TIME, cause I already FIXED IT. :nana
     
  18. james1300

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    Now would be a good time for everyone to lube ALL their locks on their bikes.

    I've even started to put a piece of tape over each lock, and plastic bags over the switch's when I wash a bike.
    (This procedure is recommended in my Daytona's owners manual).
     
    #18 james1300, Nov 6, 2009
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2009
  19. grndsm

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    I have the same problem on the same bike! It has been stored over the winter (3 months) in a heated garage and now the tank lock will not open. There is noticeable oxidation around the lock cylinder and it appears that the problem is on the outside of the cylinder, as lock itself seems fine.

    Thus far, I have tried socking it in penetrating oil and rocking the lock back and forth, but since I didn’t get a spare key with this bike, I haven’t pushed my luck and my efforts have been rather weak. I will try dislodging the cylinder with a large diameter punch and gentle hits of a hammer, as well as applying more force with a spare key (once I have one made).

    If this doesn’t work, does anyone know if I can remove the entire assembly by removing the socket head bolts around the perimeter of filler? I have read a post on Yahoo Answers about the same bike with a similar problem, the poster reported that he couldn’t remove the filler assembly after removing those bolts...
     
  20. skinny

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    No you can't just take the bolts out. The cap actually secures to the tank it self. The bolts around the car are just for the hinge.
     
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