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Discussion in 'Yakima' started by Duck, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. I was wondering if anyone on here has experience using higher octane gas or octane boosters. I'd have to check the manual but I know for those of us with Ducatis they recommend a higher octane than is available in the states, somewhere around 102. I'm thinking about running octane booster on every tank and here is why:

    Every review you read on these bikes you notice that the rear wheel horsepower is significantly lower than the claimed output from the crank. I would expect a lot of loss simply because of the way that motorcycle suspensions run but to go from putting out 141 to rear wheel at 117 seems a little ridiculous to me. This, combined with the fact that most people say they run lean and seeing as the manufacturer recommends 102 it might be worth trying.

    As I said I'm not the expert here but let's get some feedback on this and see what comes up!
  2. I have about three gallons of 110 you can have if you come down and empty it out of a tank.

    Not sure I would use it in an 848 though :popcorn:

  3. The only way that higher octane fuel will improve your power output is if there is a knock sensor on your bike that is sensing pre-ignition (pinging) and is retarding the timing.

    Octane isn't a measure of a fuel's power potential, but it's resistance to pre-ignition. Higher octane allows higher compression ratios and/or boost levels and more aggressive timing, but won't improve power output all other things being equal.
  4. To the OP- In cases like yours when a higher octane fuel is recommended than is available, then yes, that is exactly why octane boosters were invented.

    My 67 Dart only gets run on 100LL avgas due to the high compression ratio plus still having old school heads on it that don't have hardened valve seats, if I need to get fuel somewhere other than my garage, there's a couple bottles of octane booster and a bottle of lead substitute in the trunk.

    I'm not sure you'll be able to use a full can at every fill-up, though, and you'll want to make sure you get a pretty standard ratio down.
  5. yuppers

    in laymans

    Octane doesnt mean power....

    Compression means power... octane is the ability to withstand compression with KABOOMING your engine..
  6. May help a little if you had an ignition advancer? I think those were for the older bikes though.
    Higher octane fuels burn slower so you need more timing (early spark) to take advantage of it.
  7. I don't think it will help increase power at all. The way that fuel octane is measured differs in Europe and other parts of the world. 95 in Italy is like 87 here in the states. Wikipedia has a good article about octane rating. Here, will look it up for you. Basically, if your bike is not knocking or sputtering or doing something odd, you will only get a negligible increase in power (if anything) by putting octane boost in it. I am sure the airport fuelers will sell you some 100 low lead if you want to try it out though. Has a nice smell to it at least if you don't mind paying $6 per gallon.
  8. I'm not totally positive but I believe a PC5 has a built in ignition module. Get a PC5, get bike tuned on whatever octane you want. Honestly, premium is fine. You want to run the LOWEST octane your bike doesn't PING with.
  9. i guess u could always try running a bottle of octane booster and see if your bike runs better. if u dont see any difference, then u know your not losing your power at the pump and maybe somewhere else. they sell octane boosters especially for motorcycles but u can prolly run the bigger bottles and jus spread it out through a few tank fills
  10. Since your octane question has already been addressed, let me jump in on this part:

    You need to read up on drivetrain losses. Every moving part between the crank and the road saps power due to inertia and friction. Depending on the drive system, some drivetrains cause more loss than others. It is entirely normal for drivetrain losses to be anywhere between 18-30% depending on the layout, construction and method of power transfer. BHP numbers are not reflective of what power you will see on the street - always get it straight from the dyno in terms of raw RWHP output, as well as corrected for ambient conditions.

    This is actually a HUGE topic just on its own, so I really suggest doing some heavy reading if you're really concerned, or just curious.
  11. Would recommend not running 100LL in your bikes. You'll likely get deposits built up in your injectors rather rapidly, and if your bike still has a catalytic convertor, lead will kill it in a hurry.
  12. jnicola

    jnicola Shredical

    I'm surprised nobody has said this yet:

    It's very common to read in the manual that the bike requires a higher octane than available in the US... because the United States equation for calculating octane is different from most of the rest of the world.
  13. I already said that.
  14. I agree. However, many people here locally were doing it.
  15. 100LL shouldn't be used in anything with a catylitic converter.

    It is, however, ok to run it in pre-1976 bikes and will help keep the exhaust valve seats from eroding.
  16. If you read the original post you can see that I do understand drivetrain loss.

    I see a lot of comments on here suggesting that it will do nothing and that octane only helps produce compression. Well on a motor that is designed to run higher octane obviously this would help with compression. I think the bottom line on this issue is that none of our bikes are tuned exactly how they should be and to get them there takes more time an effort than most of us will put in to it. I put octane booster in a couple tanks recently and the bike felt a little smoother on acceleration but I don't feel like buying a bottle of octane booster every time I hit the pump.
  17. Just for comparisons sake you should put some 87 or 89 in it and see if you notice a difference. If it runs poorly you can always just add some premium. I have run 89 before and didn't notice much difference.
  18. i think this is a typo but octane doesnt produce compression it allows increased compression without detionation.

    its true that our bikes arnt tuned correctly from the factory. but increasing octane on a motor that doesnt need it isnt helping your tune, defenetly not your power or mileage.

    im pretty sure its all a mental smooth and mental running smoother that you feel.
  19. "A common misconception is that power output or fuel efficiency can be improved by burning fuel of higher octane than that specified by the engine manufacturer. The power output of an engine depends in part on the energy density of the fuel being burnt. Fuels of different octane ratings may have similar densities, but because switching to a higher octane fuel does not add more hydrocarbon content or oxygen, the engine cannot develop more power."
  20. "Italy: 95 RON is the only compulsory gasoline offered

    "United States: in the US octane rating is displayed in AKI. 85 AKI (90 RON) is the minimum octane, and 91 AKI (95 RON) is the maximum octane available in fuel"

    See? Premium here is the same as gas there. Shouldnt stress about it homie.
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