dood. SmalltownSarah just bought a pretty decent 1976 RD400C that is setup pretty well as it sits. I like how the seat makes the bike feel lighter and look smaller. It has older, "period" Spec II pipes and rearsets, italian Tarozzi clip-ons, a very nice BMW rear brake master cylinder (HVC modifies them to work on the RD400) and some cool brushed aluminum turn signals. The problem w/ the bike, was that it would idle somewhat, but would not rev. Sarah said that there were pieces of what appeared to be "wire brush" type material inside the left side cover. I know Sarah through my GF from another forum and they know that we are both RD nuts, so Sarah came down and dropped the bike off. We pulled the cover and i could see the silvery material w/ black stuff all over. Come to find out that behind the stator, the brushes had completely broken off and shredded the copper track on the ignition rotor (also shorted it and ripped the top loose, found a replacement off ebay for 30.00 bucks total w/ shipping, not bad. (had the guy check it w/ a multi-meter to make sure it was good!). replacement rotor and potato chipped the armature, along w/ completely melting the field coil connector. It's a good thing that i bought the OEM connector style crimp tool & a bunch of spare period type connectors. http://www.mikesxs.net/products-78.html#products Sarah's bike had those awful K&N Style pod filters, so I suggested the Y-boot setup (HVC online)...it has the tuned length for better running and uses one large filter. Much better setup over individual hard end pod filters. http://www.hvccycle.com/air-filter-yamaha.html We are still waiting on new banshee intake manifolds & crossover tube to help tune out the flat spot most stockers have around the 5k~5.5k rpm range. Makes the bike rev more smoothly. NOTE: banshee manifolds need to be modified to fit RD, we cut the rubber dogears off the backside, but are careful to leave the "formed-in" o-ring seal intact for better seal, obviously. I just send those to http://www.rb-designs.com/ <---cranks, top end, bore jobs, carb plate mods...has the jigs already for converting RDs to o-ring heads...squish mods, dome, c.c. all that stuff. NIce guy too. If you know Scott Clough racing, http://home.earthlink.net/~scloughn/index.html he used to work w/ Scott long ago and they are friends. Scott is the goto guy for a lot of porting work for many different two strokes. RB used to port, but leans more to the machining side of things...does a lot of head work for off-road dirt bikes, atvs and all things stroker. And RB Designs is local, lives right off Skyline Blvd. in Portland....his brother owns Cycle Metrics. See a bunch of bikes out there every time i go buy...right on a nice curve too. I was in a rush to see if that fixed the rev problem and poor running, so didn't do any other fine tuning and started it up to see. I found that 1 turns out on the airscrews was difficult to start. I turned the airscrew to 1/2 turn and that did the trick and it started right up! Here's a video (not ready to run by all means...still some fine tuning, but sounds much better than it did)...nice and crispy...problem w/ turning the airscrews in is the bike is a bit strangled....hence the need to go to a larger pilot, but we'll see after i time it first!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnBDbl2qvJ0 So the pilot circuit is telling me the pilot is too small. I'm "guessing" that it is close to stock pilot. Optimal setting for a stock unmodified carb is good between 1.0~1.5 turns. Turning the airscrews out, allows more air to flow, turning them inward allows less. if the pilot is too big, the airscrews need to be turned out, pilot too small, obviously many outward turns leans it out and you keep turning in until it is satisfactory. So I know i have to at the very least, first get it timed, carb synch, injector adj...possibly jetting. Will update w/ a video when i get it running more better.