PNW Riders

pastywhiteredhead · 10-20-2009, 10:07 AM

As stated... This tire only has 2 track days on them. (My very first two track days I might add..)
Power Race Soft compound, 26psi cold, track was PIR both days absolutly 80+ degrees (ran with 2-fast aug 26 and CTT on sept 27th) Ive set my sag right around 25mm. But Im super light maybe 150lbs with full gear.

As for speed I was in the intermediate or B sessions both days. Lap times were without the chicane were consistant 1:19 - 1:20 with the chicane the following day were 1:30
So im by no means the fastest guy but for my first ever track days I was very happy with that.. I was told I could run A with CCT if I wanted to give it a try my last couple sessions...

Anyway I really want to get into racing but I think I need to get the suspension dialed. I know Im very hard on the gas.. I dont really know what rolling on the throttle is yet??

Any help on what to do to resolve this would be awsome... Tires arent cheap thats for sure..

As you can see there wasted!!!

Thats me by the way...

odin544 · 10-20-2009, 10:38 AM

You should talk to Barry next time your at the track. If you wanna race dont let the suspension set up stop you. There will be plenty of people there who will help you with it.

brianm · 10-20-2009, 10:48 AM

There are two issues that I see from your tire wear. One is rebound and the other is technique. If you're running the stock suspension then your tire wear is going to suffer. The manufacturer sets the bike up in anticipation of a passenger, so the rear spring to too stiff for you. The stiffness of the spring is very harsh on the tire which causes it to wear more quickly than it would with a correct spring. Further, the raised front edge of the tread would indicate one of two things. Either the tire pressure is wrong or the rebound setting is wrong. It looks like rebound to me.

Your tire wear is always going to be more aggressive on stock suspension, but at least minimize it by getting it set up. I recommend Barry with GP suspension to do a set up at least and a re-valve ideally. You can spend the $$ on suspension or you can spend the $$ on tires. good luck.

theJrod · 10-20-2009, 11:50 AM

to Brian, except he forgot the worst part of your problem: Power Races. Try a real tire.

matt3719 · 10-20-2009, 12:10 PM

thats rebound tear 100%, see the lip on tread, its from the shock pushing the tire as your comin out of the corner, at least thats what ive been told when i got mine set up, after having your suspension dialed, possibly resprung for your weight you would save your tires a bit better in the long run, look up catalyst reaction suspension on google they have a great site with tips on how to read your tires and such!

stevieb · 10-20-2009, 12:15 PM

Originally Posted by theJrod

to Brian, except he forgot the worst part of your problem: Power Races. Try a real tire.

I've been running the same rear tire cause they are cheap, but won't be next season. I've also been setting the rear at 23 cold, not 26. I've gotten an average of 4-5 days out of one rear by flipping it once through the middle of it's life....and then running it until it was a bald slick. That's just me though cause I'm poor.

stevieb · 10-20-2009, 12:16 PM

By the way, you may want to take those curb feelers off before too many more track days. One might catch you by surprise!

pastywhiteredhead · 10-20-2009, 01:35 PM

Thanks for all the quick replies!!!

By the way, you may want to take those curb feelers off before too many more track days. One might catch you by surprise!

Ive been told that.. Allready ben removed.
I raced dirt as long as I can remember, and now at 30 all the broken bones have taken a tole on me.. The street is a little easier on the body.. (so far at least) and Im a firm believer that there is nothing that will get you faster more than having a dialed in suspension.. Im almost leaning toward geting gold valves??

and new springs??

odin544 · 10-20-2009, 01:38 PM

dirt is much softer than pavement.

pastywhiteredhead · 10-20-2009, 01:45 PM

Originally Posted by odin544

dirt is much softer than pavement.

Sometimes?? Ive raced on some bluegroove thats feels like asphault.. Plus your definetly not falling as far outa that air..

Nicegy525 · 10-20-2009, 05:17 PM

best thing to do is pick a suspension guy, wether it be Dave at GP or Barry from KFG or someone else. Have them set it up and continue to have them monitor performance and make adjustments until youve got it dialed in. The key is to stick with the same guy and make progressive adjustments towards the sweet spot.

TwistedTimes · 10-20-2009, 07:06 PM

Originally Posted by matt3719

thats rebound tear 100%, see the lip on tread, its from the shock pushing the tire as your comin out of the corner, at least thats what ive been told when i got mine set up, after having your suspension dialed, possibly resprung for your weight you would save your tires a bit better in the long run, look up catalyst reaction suspension on google they have a great site with tips on how to read your tires and such!

Awesome website!! thanks Matt

http://www.feelthetrack.com/tuning_guide.htm

bigtbone · 10-20-2009, 08:21 PM

I would like to also see what the front tire looks like. I bet it looks almost perfect and has a gazillion miles on it. Not only do you show technique and suspension tuning issues, but also improper chassis set-up. I would like to see the front tire to be certain though. I bet your bike doesnt finish the corner very well and runs wide alot unless you muscle it around.

Step 1: Get the chassis measured and set up for the tires you are running. Every chassis is different and so are the tire brands. A 180 isnt a 180 from everyone and the rolling diameter and edge diameter need to be accounted for. Recommend GP Suspension www.gpsuspension.com for this. Well worth the price of admission. It will likely save you a couple sets of tires per year.
Step 2: If the shock is rebounding too fast, slow it down a click at a time. Dont waste your time on step 2 if you have not done step 1. Often when you make adjustments to rebound it affects the compression side as well. Keep that in mind when tuning.
Step 3: You need to turn the gas on earlier, but lighter. You have a severe case of "comfort-zone-itis" and "whack-a-throttle elbow drop syndrome". Slow that down and start the process earlier. Smooth and slow is the FAST way to go & saves you money on tires. I could have moved step 3 ahead of step 1. But, you mentioned that you were wanting to begin racing, so you need to set the bike up properly.

Those of you who are just riding trackdays and tired of smoking tires off too fast, but do not want to spend the money on suspension and chassis work; work on technique. Early but light throttle application. Slow all your hand inputs down. You want even wear across the tire from edge to center and back to edge. Any "chunks, dips, etc." and you are whacking the throttle and not being smooth. At a 1:20 pace for PIR, Michelin Power Race tires should last 3-4 trackdays with proper chassis geometry and suspension at least in the ballpark.

pastywhiteredhead · 10-20-2009, 09:18 PM

Originally Posted by bigtbone

I would like to also see what the front tire looks like. I bet it looks almost perfect and has a gazillion miles on it. Not only do you show technique and suspension tuning issues, but also improper chassis set-up. I would like to see the front tire to be certain though. I bet your bike doesnt finish the corner very well and runs wide alot unless you muscle it around.

Step 1: Get the chassis measured and set up for the tires you are running. Every chassis is different and so are the tire brands. A 180 isnt a 180 from everyone and the rolling diameter and edge diameter need to be accounted for. Recommend GP Suspension www.gpsuspension.com for this. Well worth the price of admission. It will likely save you a couple sets of tires per year.
Step 2: If the shock is rebounding too fast, slow it down a click at a time. Dont waste your time on step 2 if you have not done step 1. Often when you make adjustments to rebound it affects the compression side as well. Keep that in mind when tuning.
Step 3: You need to turn the gas on earlier, but lighter. You have a severe case of "comfort-zone-itis" and "whack-a-throttle elbow drop syndrome". Slow that down and start the process earlier. Smooth and slow is the FAST way to go & saves you money on tires. I could have moved step 3 ahead of step 1. But, you mentioned that you were wanting to begin racing, so you need to set the bike up properly.

Those of you who are just riding trackdays and tired of smoking tires off too fast, but do not want to spend the money on suspension and chassis work; work on technique. Early but light throttle application. Slow all your hand inputs down. You want even wear across the tire from edge to center and back to edge. Any "chunks, dips, etc." and you are whacking the throttle and not being smooth. At a 1:20 pace for PIR, Michelin Power Race tires should last 3-4 trackdays with proper chassis geometry and suspension at least in the ballpark.

Well spoken... And yes I realize I NEED to learn to roll it on..

But anyway heres the front.. Both have the same miles.. Bought them new for the track...

And again thanks for all the advise!!!

Deerhunter · 10-21-2009, 07:48 AM

The "cupping" you're seeing on the leading edge of the tread indicates slow rebound. Speed it up in small increments and that should begin to resolve. I also run Michelins. Depending on track temp, you will go out with the rear between 18 and 22 cold. I know, it sounds low but that's the pressure. Consult Michelin's site for confirmation. Another issue you face is building heat. Without warmers it takes a lot of patience to restrain yourself on the throttle until they're warm. If you don't have a thermometer then feel your rims to see how you're doing. Regarding softs: I'll only run those with track temps between 50 and 80. Otherwise they just won't last. They did fine at the last CTT day (very cold out) but started deteriorating in the last two sessions. If you stay with Michelins you'll notice quite an improvement in the Power One.

bigtbone · 10-21-2009, 12:06 PM

Thanks for posting the front tire pics. As I suspected, the front tire is too cold. This could be a pressure thing, but it is most likely due to the chassis not being properly set up. Its kinda like a shopping cart with the front wheel that wobbles around. Theres nothing forcing it into the pavement with authority (rear ride height, proper shock spring rate, proper valving). So mid corner when you transition to throttle, the back of the bike drops and you end up with a shopping cart-like front wheel just along for the ride. The bike runs wide and tears rear tires up.

Switching tire brands is not the option. If you like the Michelin and the trackside support, then continue with the brand. But, make an appointment with GP and have Sage work with you to tune the chassis. The only real way to accurately measure the chassis is to use the machine they have. Same goes for everyone regardless of tire brand. Get your bike accurately set up for the tire you are running. "IF" you change tire brands after having the chassis set up, get the rolling diameter dimensions from the tire vendor and consult with GP. They can plug those numbers into the measurements already taken for your bike and tell you what changes to make.

Good Luck.

pastywhiteredhead · 10-21-2009, 01:02 PM

Originally Posted by bigtbone

Thanks for posting the front tire pics. As I suspected, the front tire is too cold. This could be a pressure thing, but it is most likely due to the chassis not being properly set up. Its kinda like a shopping cart with the front wheel that wobbles around. Theres nothing forcing it into the pavement with authority (rear ride height, proper shock spring rate, proper valving). So mid corner when you transition to throttle, the back of the bike drops and you end up with a shopping cart-like front wheel just along for the ride. The bike runs wide and tears rear tires up.

Switching tire brands is not the option. If you like the Michelin and the trackside support, then continue with the brand. But, make an appointment with GP and have Sage work with you to tune the chassis. The only real way to accurately measure the chassis is to use the machine they have. Same goes for everyone regardless of tire brand. Get your bike accurately set up for the tire you are running. "IF" you change tire brands after having the chassis set up, get the rolling diameter dimensions from the tire vendor and consult with GP. They can plug those numbers into the measurements already taken for your bike and tell you what changes to make.

Good Luck.

Thats for the advise.. My front dosent seem to run wide at all actually??

Ive never seemed to have a problem with that. When I accelerate out of the corner it seems to run right on track..

theJrod · 10-21-2009, 01:56 PM

Front tires always last much much longer than rears, so I'd pay more attention to the rear. It is likely that your front pressure is off, since it's tearing too, but you're better off just going to GP had having them sort out the suspension/geometry first.

Essvar · 10-22-2009, 11:02 AM

Run a medium rear, add rear ride height(7-10mm) and adjust rebound....

bigtbone · 10-22-2009, 01:38 PM

Originally Posted by pastywhiteredhead

Thats for the advise.. My front dosent seem to run wide at all actually??

Ive never seemed to have a problem with that. When I accelerate out of the corner it seems to run right on track..

As your corner speed increase and your lap times drop, you might not say the same thing. For the front tire, what works at 1:20 lap time won't work well at a 1:12 lap time.

pastywhiteredhead · 10-22-2009, 03:11 PM

Originally Posted by Essvar

Run a medium rear, add rear ride height(7-10mm) and adjust rebound....

The only way Ill get another mm of sag would be to get a new rear spring.. As of now its as loose as its gona get.. It might have three threds showing above the lock ring..

Originally Posted by bigtbone

As your corner speed increase and your lap times drop, you might not say the same thing. For the front tire, what works at 1:20 lap time won't work well at a 1:12 lap time.

Very true.. and I know its gona be an ongoing process..

That said anybody on here have any experience with race tech gold valves?? I ran them on the dirt with 3 bikes... And loved them. Night and day compared to stock.. (but then again I did it all valves and springs front and rear)
I would assume the difference would be the same for the street??

theJrod · 10-22-2009, 03:22 PM

Nobody really does Gold Valves on street bikes.

Your options are (in order of expense):
1. Respring for you weight
2. Revalve + respring
3. Whole new shock (rear) & full 25mm cartridge kit (front)
4. Some combination of the above.

the chemist · 10-22-2009, 03:25 PM

Adam Bowen is in your area (Moxee as well). Obviously I can't volunteer him, but he's a great guy and I'm sure if you had track questions he'd gladly help.

That being said, get your suspension revalved by Barry at GP Suspension North if you want to race or continue doing trackdays. If you're just going to do a few, just get it set up but the few hundred dollars to get it revalved/sprung is well worth it.

If you don't like paying for tires, talk to Barry about that too. He also owns KFG Dunlop and can get you on some super long lasting, sticky tires. For what its worth, I used two fronts and three rears this year. All take offs, didn't buy anything new. Five race weekends, and probably 20 trackdays. Two of the rears still have a lot of life left, and both fronts are probably good for next season. You can literally run them till they look like slicks. At your pace you should not be buying new race tires. buy takeoffs, save money, and you wont even notice a difference than new. or use street tires

pastywhiteredhead · 10-22-2009, 04:26 PM

Originally Posted by the chemist

Adam Bowen is in your area (Moxee as well). Obviously I can't volunteer him, but he's a great guy and I'm sure if you had track questions he'd gladly help.

Thanks.. Ya I know Adumb, as we call him.. He is a good guy, but I trust myself over him any day..

No offense of course..

Looks like I need to talk to Barry from it looks like.. I just really want to get things dialed in.. Not to mention a little help on the tires would be the greatest thing since sliced bread..

the chemist · 10-22-2009, 06:41 PM

Originally Posted by pastywhiteredhead

Thanks.. Ya I know Adumb, as we call him.. He is a good guy, but I trust myself over him any day..

No offense of course..

Looks like I need to talk to Barry from it looks like.. I just really want to get things dialed in.. Not to mention a little help on the tires would be the greatest thing since sliced bread..

Eh, I was just thinking cuz he raced for some years. But yea, give Barry a call.

pastywhiteredhead · 10-22-2009, 07:04 PM

Wooops.... I was thinking of the wrong Adam.. I'll have to ask around and see who this is..

tophyr · 10-23-2009, 12:39 AM

Originally Posted by pastywhiteredhead

The only way Ill get another mm of sag would be to get a new rear spring.. As of now its as loose as its gona get.. It might have three threds showing above the lock ring..

That's probably your problem right there - I'm reading this to say that you're backed all the way out of your rear preload, correct? Crank a bunch in, three full turns. That should add about 8-9mm of rear ride height.

That said anybody on here have any experience with race tech gold valves?? I ran them on the dirt with 3 bikes... And loved them. Night and day compared to stock.. (but then again I did it all valves and springs front and rear)
I would assume the difference would be the same for the street??

I do, I was sponsored by RaceTech this year. Don't put them in your streetbike. Ever. Use GP stuff instead.

pastywhiteredhead · 10-23-2009, 10:22 AM

[QUOTE=tophyr;1904349]That's probably your problem right there - I'm reading this to say that you're backed all the way out of your rear preload, correct? Crank a bunch in, three full turns. That should add about 8-9mm of rear ride height.QUOTE]

Wont that throw my sag off though??

MikeM · 10-23-2009, 10:32 AM

[QUOTE=pastywhiteredhead;1904636]

Originally Posted by tophyr

That's probably your problem right there - I'm reading this to say that you're backed all the way out of your rear preload, correct? Crank a bunch in, three full turns. That should add about 8-9mm of rear ride height.QUOTE]

Wont that throw my sag off though??

Yes it will.... That is not the way to try and get ride height, it would make things much worse for you. Go talk to Barry and he can help you get it all set up.

UhOh · 10-23-2009, 10:58 AM

Originally Posted by Deerhunter

... If you don't have a thermometer then feel your rims to see how you're doing.
Regarding softs: I'll only run those with track temps between 50 and 80. ...

Harbor Freight Tools has a small infrared thermo for ~$15.
Non-contact; I've checked mine, temp-wise, and it was right on.

hope it helps you.

tophyr · 10-23-2009, 03:11 PM

Originally Posted by MikeM

Yes it will.... That is not the way to try and get ride height, it would make things much worse for you. Go talk to Barry and he can help you get it all set up.

I dunno if it'd make it all that much worse, sounds wrong as it is - what is your sag now, from bike-unloaded to you-sitting-on-it? (To OP obviously, not MikeM

)

edit: I just re-read the original post and saw that rear sag = 25mm. I fully retract my previous statement, MikeM is spot on in that cranking in preload will cause you more problems than correcting ride height that way will solve.

Essvar · 10-24-2009, 10:58 PM

[QUOTE=MikeM;1904651]

Originally Posted by pastywhiteredhead

Yes it will.... That is not the way to try and get ride height, it would make things much worse for you. Go talk to Barry and he can help you get it all set up.

Werd... its called a shim, not preload, not sag. You want to add ride height. But don't listen to me. I'm not Barry


10-20-2009, 10:07 AM	#1
pastywhiteredhead Newbie Joined: Sep 2009 From: Moxee I Ride: 08 zx6r	Tire Reading??? What am I doing wrong here?? As stated... This tire only has 2 track days on them. (My very first two track days I might add..) Power Race Soft compound, 26psi cold, track was PIR both days absolutly 80+ degrees (ran with 2-fast aug 26 and CTT on sept 27th) Ive set my sag right around 25mm. But Im super light maybe 150lbs with full gear. As for speed I was in the intermediate or B sessions both days. Lap times were without the chicane were consistant 1:19 - 1:20 with the chicane the following day were 1:30 So im by no means the fastest guy but for my first ever track days I was very happy with that.. I was told I could run A with CCT if I wanted to give it a try my last couple sessions... Anyway I really want to get into racing but I think I need to get the suspension dialed. I know Im very hard on the gas.. I dont really know what rolling on the throttle is yet?? Any help on what to do to resolve this would be awsome... Tires arent cheap thats for sure.. As you can see there wasted!!! Thats me by the way... __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-20-2009, 10:38 AM	#2
odin544 Superbiker Joined: Apr 2007 From: Kennewick, Washington I Ride: '08 Ducati 848 street , '03 R6 race (for sale), '07 R6 race	You should talk to Barry next time your at the track. If you wanna race dont let the suspension set up stop you. There will be plenty of people there who will help you with it. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-20-2009, 10:48 AM	#3
brianm Pit Crew Joined: Jan 2008 From: Seattle, wa	There are two issues that I see from your tire wear. One is rebound and the other is technique. If you're running the stock suspension then your tire wear is going to suffer. The manufacturer sets the bike up in anticipation of a passenger, so the rear spring to too stiff for you. The stiffness of the spring is very harsh on the tire which causes it to wear more quickly than it would with a correct spring. Further, the raised front edge of the tread would indicate one of two things. Either the tire pressure is wrong or the rebound setting is wrong. It looks like rebound to me. Your tire wear is always going to be more aggressive on stock suspension, but at least minimize it by getting it set up. I recommend Barry with GP suspension to do a set up at least and a re-valve ideally. You can spend the $$ on suspension or you can spend the $$ on tires. good luck. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-20-2009, 11:50 AM	#4
theJrod Moderator Joined: Feb 2006 From: Marysville, WA I Ride: Scooty Puff Sr: The Doom-Bringer!	to Brian, except he forgot the worst part of your problem: Power Races. Try a real tire. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-20-2009, 12:10 PM	#5
matt3719 Pit Crew Joined: Aug 2009 From: joplin, MO to pdx I Ride: 03 R1	thats rebound tear 100%, see the lip on tread, its from the shock pushing the tire as your comin out of the corner, at least thats what ive been told when i got mine set up, after having your suspension dialed, possibly resprung for your weight you would save your tires a bit better in the long run, look up catalyst reaction suspension on google they have a great site with tips on how to read your tires and such! __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter

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10-20-2009, 12:16 PM	#7
stevieb Pit Crew Joined: Feb 2007 From: Seattle, WA	By the way, you may want to take those curb feelers off before too many more track days. One might catch you by surprise! __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-20-2009, 01:35 PM	#8
pastywhiteredhead Newbie Joined: Sep 2009 From: Moxee I Ride: 08 zx6r	Thanks for all the quick replies!!! By the way, you may want to take those curb feelers off before too many more track days. One might catch you by surprise! Ive been told that.. Allready ben removed. I raced dirt as long as I can remember, and now at 30 all the broken bones have taken a tole on me.. The street is a little easier on the body.. (so far at least) and Im a firm believer that there is nothing that will get you faster more than having a dialed in suspension.. Im almost leaning toward geting gold valves?? and new springs?? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-20-2009, 01:38 PM	#9
odin544 Superbiker Joined: Apr 2007 From: Kennewick, Washington I Ride: '08 Ducati 848 street , '03 R6 race (for sale), '07 R6 race	dirt is much softer than pavement. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-20-2009, 05:17 PM	#11
Nicegy525 Zone Head Joined: Feb 2008 From: Portland, Oregon I Ride: '07 GSXR-750	best thing to do is pick a suspension guy, wether it be Dave at GP or Barry from KFG or someone else. Have them set it up and continue to have them monitor performance and make adjustments until youve got it dialed in. The key is to stick with the same guy and make progressive adjustments towards the sweet spot. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-20-2009, 08:21 PM	#13
bigtbone Training Wheels Joined: Nov 2007 From: Lake Oswego, OR I Ride: Ducati 1098, Honda CRF450r	I would like to also see what the front tire looks like. I bet it looks almost perfect and has a gazillion miles on it. Not only do you show technique and suspension tuning issues, but also improper chassis set-up. I would like to see the front tire to be certain though. I bet your bike doesnt finish the corner very well and runs wide alot unless you muscle it around. Step 1: Get the chassis measured and set up for the tires you are running. Every chassis is different and so are the tire brands. A 180 isnt a 180 from everyone and the rolling diameter and edge diameter need to be accounted for. Recommend GP Suspension www.gpsuspension.com for this. Well worth the price of admission. It will likely save you a couple sets of tires per year. Step 2: If the shock is rebounding too fast, slow it down a click at a time. Dont waste your time on step 2 if you have not done step 1. Often when you make adjustments to rebound it affects the compression side as well. Keep that in mind when tuning. Step 3: You need to turn the gas on earlier, but lighter. You have a severe case of "comfort-zone-itis" and "whack-a-throttle elbow drop syndrome". Slow that down and start the process earlier. Smooth and slow is the FAST way to go & saves you money on tires. I could have moved step 3 ahead of step 1. But, you mentioned that you were wanting to begin racing, so you need to set the bike up properly. Those of you who are just riding trackdays and tired of smoking tires off too fast, but do not want to spend the money on suspension and chassis work; work on technique. Early but light throttle application. Slow all your hand inputs down. You want even wear across the tire from edge to center and back to edge. Any "chunks, dips, etc." and you are whacking the throttle and not being smooth. At a 1:20 pace for PIR, Michelin Power Race tires should last 3-4 trackdays with proper chassis geometry and suspension at least in the ballpark. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter Last edited by bigtbone; 10-20-2009 at 08:31 PM..


10-21-2009, 07:48 AM	#15
Deerhunter Endorsed Joined: Oct 2007 From: Portland, OR I Ride: Motorbikes	The "cupping" you're seeing on the leading edge of the tread indicates slow rebound. Speed it up in small increments and that should begin to resolve. I also run Michelins. Depending on track temp, you will go out with the rear between 18 and 22 cold. I know, it sounds low but that's the pressure. Consult Michelin's site for confirmation. Another issue you face is building heat. Without warmers it takes a lot of patience to restrain yourself on the throttle until they're warm. If you don't have a thermometer then feel your rims to see how you're doing. Regarding softs: I'll only run those with track temps between 50 and 80. Otherwise they just won't last. They did fine at the last CTT day (very cold out) but started deteriorating in the last two sessions. If you stay with Michelins you'll notice quite an improvement in the Power One. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter Last edited by Deerhunter; 10-21-2009 at 07:59 AM..


10-21-2009, 12:06 PM	#16
bigtbone Training Wheels Joined: Nov 2007 From: Lake Oswego, OR I Ride: Ducati 1098, Honda CRF450r	Thanks for posting the front tire pics. As I suspected, the front tire is too cold. This could be a pressure thing, but it is most likely due to the chassis not being properly set up. Its kinda like a shopping cart with the front wheel that wobbles around. Theres nothing forcing it into the pavement with authority (rear ride height, proper shock spring rate, proper valving). So mid corner when you transition to throttle, the back of the bike drops and you end up with a shopping cart-like front wheel just along for the ride. The bike runs wide and tears rear tires up. Switching tire brands is not the option. If you like the Michelin and the trackside support, then continue with the brand. But, make an appointment with GP and have Sage work with you to tune the chassis. The only real way to accurately measure the chassis is to use the machine they have. Same goes for everyone regardless of tire brand. Get your bike accurately set up for the tire you are running. "IF" you change tire brands after having the chassis set up, get the rolling diameter dimensions from the tire vendor and consult with GP. They can plug those numbers into the measurements already taken for your bike and tell you what changes to make. Good Luck. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter Last edited by bigtbone; 10-21-2009 at 12:08 PM..


10-21-2009, 01:56 PM	#18
theJrod Moderator Joined: Feb 2006 From: Marysville, WA I Ride: Scooty Puff Sr: The Doom-Bringer!	Front tires always last much much longer than rears, so I'd pay more attention to the rear. It is likely that your front pressure is off, since it's tearing too, but you're better off just going to GP had having them sort out the suspension/geometry first. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-22-2009, 11:02 AM	#19
Essvar ghetto-fabulous Joined: Jun 2006 From: MetheadsStealYourStuff, OR I Ride: Sticky Rubbers	Run a medium rear, add rear ride height(7-10mm) and adjust rebound.... __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-22-2009, 03:22 PM	#22
theJrod Moderator Joined: Feb 2006 From: Marysville, WA I Ride: Scooty Puff Sr: The Doom-Bringer!	Nobody really does Gold Valves on street bikes. Your options are (in order of expense): 1. Respring for you weight 2. Revalve + respring 3. Whole new shock (rear) & full 25mm cartridge kit (front) 4. Some combination of the above. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-22-2009, 03:25 PM	#23
the chemist ducatiduane Joined: Feb 2007 From: Cheney I Ride: but not on the street.	Adam Bowen is in your area (Moxee as well). Obviously I can't volunteer him, but he's a great guy and I'm sure if you had track questions he'd gladly help. That being said, get your suspension revalved by Barry at GP Suspension North if you want to race or continue doing trackdays. If you're just going to do a few, just get it set up but the few hundred dollars to get it revalved/sprung is well worth it. If you don't like paying for tires, talk to Barry about that too. He also owns KFG Dunlop and can get you on some super long lasting, sticky tires. For what its worth, I used two fronts and three rears this year. All take offs, didn't buy anything new. Five race weekends, and probably 20 trackdays. Two of the rears still have a lot of life left, and both fronts are probably good for next season. You can literally run them till they look like slicks. At your pace you should not be buying new race tires. buy takeoffs, save money, and you wont even notice a difference than new. or use street tires __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-22-2009, 07:04 PM	#26
pastywhiteredhead Newbie Joined: Sep 2009 From: Moxee I Ride: 08 zx6r	Wooops.... I was thinking of the wrong Adam.. I'll have to ask around and see who this is.. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


10-23-2009, 10:22 AM	#28
pastywhiteredhead Newbie Joined: Sep 2009 From: Moxee I Ride: 08 zx6r	[QUOTE=tophyr;1904349]That's probably your problem right there - I'm reading this to say that you're backed all the way out of your rear preload, correct? Crank a bunch in, three full turns. That should add about 8-9mm of rear ride height.QUOTE] Wont that throw my sag off though?? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter

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