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05-25-2008, 06:44 PM
| #1 |
| Zone Head Joined: Mar 2007 From: Tacoma, WA I Ride: Paulson's GSX-R 600, Ricks R6, Chris's CBR600, Dave's RC51, SB Motorsports SV650, Rhett's GSX-R1000 and Gary B's R6 | For all you novice racers.... Hey boys (and girls?), I just picked up a tip and thought I'd pass it along. Not a big one but you know what the 'ol saying is: a bunch of little gains turns out to be one big one. Anyone running a K & N air filter in your race bike? I pulled mine out, drizzled some dawn dish liquid on it and soaked it until all the red oil was pulled out of the filter. It went from red to white and now will breathe better. |
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05-25-2008, 07:15 PM
| #2 |
| Je Fa Fa Joined: Mar 2007 From: Lynnwood, WA I Ride: 08 naked SV650 | will this "breathing better" result in more particles in my engine? will this work for street bikes? will it work for all k&n filters? or just race bikes? Last edited by koorbloh; 05-25-2008 at 07:29 PM.. Reason: yeah, I meant particles |
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05-25-2008, 07:25 PM
| #5 | ||
| Zone Head Joined: Mar 2007 From: Tacoma, WA I Ride: Paulson's GSX-R 600, Ricks R6, Chris's CBR600, Dave's RC51, SB Motorsports SV650, Rhett's GSX-R1000 and Gary B's R6 | 
The race bike goes out for a short distance at a time, not really enough time to make a diff.
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05-25-2008, 07:28 PM
| #6 |
| Je Fa Fa Joined: Mar 2007 From: Lynnwood, WA I Ride: 08 naked SV650 | it's not about miles on an air filter...it's about air through that filter.... the amount of air running at track RPM's is probably equal to the amount though the same type of air filter in the same type of bike in my commute..... btw, a 10 lap race on 2.5 mile track is longer than my commute..... yes, more air flow...but at what cost? |
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05-25-2008, 07:30 PM
| #7 |
| MotoGP Contender Joined: Feb 2006 From: Dri-Shities, WA I Ride: GSX-R's | Ok, so teh ENGINEERS at K&N & Piper X & whatever other companies make reusable filters, must not understand how it should be done!  Last edited by FatMatt; 05-25-2008 at 07:32 PM.. |
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05-25-2008, 07:48 PM
| #9 |
| MotoGP Contender | If you're going to take the oil off why not just take the entire filter off? The oil traps dust particles which could clog your injectors... Common sense that a lint trapped between two mesh screens won't be much protective help when it doesn't have oil. |
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05-25-2008, 07:51 PM
| #10 |
| Pit Crew Joined: Oct 2007 From: Beaver-opolis, OR (originally Boston) I Ride: because I can't not ride. ('94 VFR 750 "Rat Bike") | K&N, BMC and other oiled-cotton or oiled-foam reusable air filters NEED TO BE OILED IN ORDER TO FILTER the air. They flow simply huge amounts of air when correctly oiled: (follow the directions - don't overdo it) Add a few drops to each pleat and let it seep in (capillary action). *Leave it on the bench overnite and you'd be surprised how little oil is needed to achieve full penetration. You want a light pink color (or green depending on the type of oil). Even clean motor oil is better than nothing at all. Hell, even USED motor oil would be better than no oil at all! They still flow well, and actually filter better when there's a thin layer of visible crud on the outside. A correctly oiled cotton filter has just about zero restriction of intake air flow. The filters are designed to have so much extra media/capacity that even dirty they flow much more than a stock filter. It's good to wash it with dish soap (mild degreaser) annually (or less), but they MUST be re-oiled. Running it without oil entirely defeats the purpose of having a filter at all, and is inviting grit to destroy your valves, valve seats, rings, spark plugs, etc. (basically all the important stuff). It's nearly the same as simply leaving it out; only the very largest particles would be stopped, and damn few of those. You might as well gut your oil filter while you're at it "for better flow & less restriction", for "more power".  *Please don't offer BAD ADVICE to "Novice Racers" - some guys actually might not know better and might actually do this... ** NOVICE RACERS (or anyone) - if you're going to run a K&N/BMC/Uni(foam) etc., OIL IT! And also make sure your bike is properly jetted for it in order to prevent expensive problems, especially with any exhaust mods. Last edited by Rat; 05-25-2008 at 08:13 PM.. |
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05-25-2008, 09:07 PM
| #13 |
| dirttrack44m  | wow really? shit i would have never known you shouldn't oil your filter. so i guess all the dirttrack teams have been doing it wrong also huh? WTF? |
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05-25-2008, 09:18 PM
| #14 | |
| MotoGP Contender Joined: Feb 2006 From: Dri-Shities, WA I Ride: GSX-R's |
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05-25-2008, 11:00 PM
| #18 | |
| WMRRA Qualifier Joined: Apr 2008 From: Burien,WA I Ride: '04 CBR 1000rr '93 VFR750F '74 CT90 k4 |
 I cannot believe this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! | |
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05-25-2008, 11:07 PM
| #19 |
| MotoGP Contender Joined: Feb 2006 From: Dri-Shities, WA I Ride: GSX-R's | & I heard from a professional racer that oil just slows down your engine because it is too thick, so on race days just drain it out & filler up with good ole H20!!! Less restrictive & lets you get to those high revs quicker!  |
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05-26-2008, 01:56 AM
| #20 | |
| MotoGP Contender |
I seriously can't believe this. The only time I ever heard of water vapor being injected into engines is with experimental jet turbine afterburner states to increase compression ratio for extra thrust with the purpose of launching off of aircraft carriers. Gasoline engines cannot achieve those pressures so I can only imagine that the result of water in your intake gasses would result in boging down the engine, perhaps even damage. When the cotton fiber filter dried out you'd end up with dust entering your engine...causing damage. Paper filters don't need the oil because the tight weave of the paper fibers are a better filter than the loose cotton fibers of a k&n filter. The tighter weave that prevents dust from entering the engine also lowers potential air flow, yet with the k&n oil applied to their filter it provides excellent protection and air flow. I would tell everyone to just follow manufacturer directions. They have spent millions of dollars and exhaustive tests to ensure their products perform as perfectly as possible. This isn't the 50's and 60's when simple engine modifications produced outstanding results. Stock components are pretty good (and often computerized) and if you want better performance there is usually no simple tweak to achieve the elusive "outstanding result." Sometimes that tweak improves one factor while decreasing another. (Such as the no filter=better air flow, yet no filter=no filtering of air flow leading to engine damage) If you're really that concerned that your used k&n filter needs servicing and you're not confident you'll do it correctly buy a new one. You can of course invent your own filtration system so good luck with that...please keep in mind cause and effect of the variables included. Last edited by Mithras; 05-26-2008 at 02:35 AM.. | |
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05-26-2008, 02:08 AM
| #21 | |
| beansbaxter is too lazy to come up with something but he will get to it, eventually... |
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05-26-2008, 10:32 AM
| #23 |
| Superbiker Joined: Dec 2006 From: Kirkland, WA I Ride: for Team Kaka Racing | Actually, I had water misting on the intake of my Mustang Cobra. Allowed me to advance the timing to 12 deg. with a 125 shot of nitrous, no knocks  Oil your filter, but dont saturate it until it drips. |
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05-26-2008, 10:34 AM
| #24 | |
| MotoGP Contender Joined: May 2007 From: Spokane, WA Blog Entries: 1 I Ride: 06 SV Race Bike - As soon as I have a job... |
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05-26-2008, 11:13 AM
| #26 |
| Zone Head Joined: Mar 2007 From: Tacoma, WA I Ride: Paulson's GSX-R 600, Ricks R6, Chris's CBR600, Dave's RC51, SB Motorsports SV650, Rhett's GSX-R1000 and Gary B's R6 | Sorry boys, it's rare that I give bad advice, please forgive me. |
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05-26-2008, 01:18 PM
| #27 | |
| WMRRA Qualifier Joined: Apr 2008 From: Burien,WA I Ride: '04 CBR 1000rr '93 VFR750F '74 CT90 k4 |
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05-26-2008, 03:50 PM
| #28 | |
| beansbaxter is too lazy to come up with something but he will get to it, eventually... |
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