PNW Riders

Lynk · 02-09-2010, 03:48 PM

Anyone around Seattle have a wheel bearing removal driver that I can use? I have a new pair of bearings for my Sportster, but no good way to remove the old. The ID of the bearings is 1".

james1300 · 02-09-2010, 04:25 PM

Bearing driver sets are available at Harbor Freaight or Schucks for around $15.00 a set. Then you will have a tool for when ever you need it! I have used a drift punch to get old bearings out. It destroys the bearing race. But, I didnt care, as I was replacing the old with new.

vagrant · 02-09-2010, 04:26 PM

long skinny drift?

<--ghetto

Lynk · 02-09-2010, 04:28 PM

Thanks, James. Harbor Freight didn't even occur to me. The spacer in this wheel would make the punch method awfully difficult.

james1300 · 02-09-2010, 04:35 PM

Yes, but when you reach into the wheel hub with the drift punch, you will be able to see/feel where the drift needs to be placed. Theres a slight 'lip'.
Hit the punch at the 12, 3,6, and 9 positions. Once you get the bearing to move it will be easier to work that bearing out. Is there a threaded alumininum set collar 'staked' in place on the outside of the wheel hub?

Lynk · 02-09-2010, 04:35 PM

I suppose I could use this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95987

James, did you have something different in mind? I was thinking of something similar to the MotionPro tool, with a split die and driver rod. There's a Harbor Freight about 10 minutes away from me, and they close at 8:00pm.

Lynk · 02-09-2010, 04:36 PM

Originally Posted by james1300

... Is there a threaded alumininum set collar 'staked' in place on the outside of the wheel hub?

No. These are strictly press-fit.

james1300 · 02-09-2010, 04:38 PM

Originally Posted by Lynk

I suppose I could use this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95987

James, did you have something different in mind? I was thinking of something similar to the MotionPro tool, with a split die and driver rod. There's a Harbor Freight about 10 minutes away from me, and they close at 8:00pm.

Ouch! Thats the tool. They have gone up a bunch!
Are you sure you cant 'drift' the old bearing out?
You will still want the 'Driver' kit to insert the new bearings.
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...bearing+driver

These things have gone up, too!

Lynk · 02-09-2010, 04:42 PM

I may have a coupon around here. The bike's been down for a while, so if I have to order from MotionPro, then so be it. As for driving the new bearings, there is NO WAY I'm going to use that tool that Harbor Freight sells. These are sealed bearings; driving them from the inner race will damage them.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Rippn · 02-09-2010, 05:26 PM

tappy tappy tappy...
FREE and clean, Ripp'n

james1300 · 02-09-2010, 05:30 PM

Originally Posted by Lynk

I may have a coupon around here. The bike's been down for a while, so if I have to order from MotionPro, then so be it. As for driving the new bearings, there is NO WAY I'm going to use that tool that Harbor Freight sells. These are sealed bearings; driving them from the inner race will damage them.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Dude! You turn the cone shape OVER and use the WIDE side against the outter race! Thats why the Driver is threaded!

Rippn · 02-09-2010, 05:37 PM

tastes like shit?...
Bwhahahahahhaahahahahahahahahahahahahahaaa!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sorry.
FREE and clean, Ripp'n

Lynk · 02-09-2010, 07:09 PM

I considered that possibility, James. I still need to get the old bearings out. There is no way a drift is going to work for these! I even dropped by Harbor Freight for a new set of punches. :(

C'est la vie!

dragracer1951 · 02-09-2010, 07:45 PM

Grind a lip onto the drift. Works every time.
Either that or make a slide hammer and head. Screw it onto the hammer from the inside.

Grantizzle · 02-09-2010, 07:47 PM

i have a hydraulic press at my place if you wanna come press the bearing out.

Lynk · 02-09-2010, 08:55 PM

Originally Posted by dragracer1951

Grind a lip onto the drift. Works every time.
Either that or make a slide hammer and head. Screw it onto the hammer from the inside.

The problem I'm having is that the sleeve is virtually the same ID as the bearings; that's partially what lead to the seized axle. I'm replacing these bearings because I had to resort to the use of a framing hammer to get the axle out of the wheel. These new drifts have a pretty sharp lip to start, and I've tried each of the three sizes.

I'm not sure I follow you with the slide hammer and head. Both sides of the wheel have the same bearings. Whatever slides in one side will slide right out the other.

Originally Posted by Grantizzle

i have a hydraulic press at my place if you wanna come press the bearing out.

How would that help? ... not to say that I wouldn't appreciate the help.

Edit: I'm really beginning to wish I hadn't thrown the old axle.

Grantizzle · 02-09-2010, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by Lynk

How would that help? ... not to say that I wouldn't appreciate the help.

Edit: I'm really beginning to wish I hadn't thrown the old axle.

you're trying to get the bearing out right?

i just used it to press out and then back in about a dozen bearings on my KLR rear suspension.... would it not work in your case?

Rippn · 02-09-2010, 09:34 PM

w/ respect.. what you ain't figured out is that that sleeve between the bearings , generaly can be wedged/cocked to give you a shot at bearing...WHAAAAAT?????
Than ....tappy tappy tappy.
It's been done that way for dang near...FOREVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!
Bwhahahahahahahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahaaa! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and the trouble w/ the sized tube and axle is a lack of proper maitainence...
That axle/sleeve can usually always be saved... don't forget to slightly grease both upon reasembly... and PLEASE, DON'T POUND that axle, back through... if it isn't a smooth fit...look at the axle and sleeve for high spots/further corrosion.
Pound it thru... and you might get to start over w/ new bearings... practicing your new found bearing removal skills... OH YIPPY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! if theres corrosion in the race, gentle clean it our w/OUT scrathing the surfaces. Take out and clean BOTH bearings/races first. I lay the new bearing on race top evenly and using a bearing instal'r or a peice of hard wood layed a cross the ENTIRE bearing face amed whack to get it started... you know when it sticks in the race evenly. The tap the wood, till flush or use the "chase" method of tapping around 360 on the OUTSIDE race of the bearing...GENTELY!!!!!!!!! After the bearing is flush w/ the hub, use a socket w/ the same OD as the bearing and tap it in or the "chase" method gently,w/a punch on the OD ONLY ...til seated. You can tell when it's seated by the tonal change to a "ring," as the last tap seats it. STAY away from that ID race. Flip the wheel over, lube the axle spacer and set it in place and start taping in the bearing.
when you get close to seated... put the axle thru and line up the spacer w/ he axle and finish tapping the bearing in. if you find you have cocked the sleave the installed wide will be whrong ang it will seamingly not all fit right. Gease the lip of the seal on the inside and tap in eavenly on the top OD seal edge... over the the bearing, usually JUST flush w/ the hub edge. stck in your finger and "twist/spin the bearing and sleave to MAKE SHURE it all feels "FREE".
Take the old bearings to a bearing house and get double sided seal bearings, and outside seals... for WAY cheaper than a MC dealer. Don't forget to properly torque your axle nut and fit the retaining cotter pin.
time to learn... GOOD FOR YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
FREE and clean, Ripp'n

dragracer1951 · 02-09-2010, 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by Lynk

The problem I'm having is that the sleeve is virtually the same ID as the bearings; that's partially what lead to the seized axle. I'm replacing these bearings because I had to resort to the use of a framing hammer to get the axle out of the wheel. These new drifts have a pretty sharp lip to start, and I've tried each of the three sizes.

I'm not sure I follow you with the slide hammer and head. Both sides of the wheel have the same bearings. Whatever slides in one side will slide right out the other.

How would that help? ... not to say that I wouldn't appreciate the help.

Edit: I'm really beginning to wish I hadn't thrown the old axle.

Michael, bring me your drift. I'll make you a removal tool.

Lynk · 02-09-2010, 10:10 PM

With all due respect to you, Rippn, this is the first time the axle has been out of the bike. The factory neglected to follow their own damned manual and use anti-seize. To top things off, I've since learned that it's common practice for H-D dealerships to use an air-hammer for driving the axle out.

I do not hammer axles into hubs. Critical fasteners on my bikes are always torqued to spec, as are most of the non-critical. The framing hammer was a last resort; here's what happened to a 2x2, after several very hard swings with a dead-blow hammer - the axle didn't move:

I respect your experience; hence, my request for help. I am certainly wishing now that I had kept the old axle, as I could have easily crafted a split cotter bearing removal tool. The bearings that are in the bike have a beveled edge, and the spacer doesn't want to move enough to give me a striking surface.

Jim, I'll call you later, and see if I can get there on Sunday.

coastiepete · 02-09-2010, 10:32 PM

i know this spacer you are talking about. i have em too. i bet that the pressure on the spacers edges prevent it from tilting. or the rust monsters have corroded it.

I'm not trying to insult you here, but have you tried putting some sideways pressure on both ends of the spacer tube? mine had a locating lip on them, but it was not centered. i was able to kinda pry it to the side a little and gain access to the edge of the bearing. It took a little work on the 33 year old bearings.

edit: i just saw your post above. maybe some pry bar action? if it's a 1" opening, should be plenty of room to get it in there and wiggle yourself a little room. I think that's why they put the centering ring off center............

Lynk · 02-09-2010, 11:11 PM

Yeah, I was just trying to work it, Pete. No luck yet, but I have an idea.

Rippn · 02-09-2010, 11:20 PM

It's drive'n the axle back in, that destroys the bearings... who cares come'n out... w/in reason. Whack that spacer pry bar a good one, enough to get SOMETHING/ punch in on tha bearing ID in race and loosen/tap it outword a bit.

Not try'n tobust yer chops... try'n to cover most probs and situations... not knowing your exp... eat the hay a spit the wire. I have found it educational to me when someone goes and cover EVERTHING(what I can remember...
I'm chrunchy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) for the job... I always re-learn, as I remember too.
I'm sorry if I sounded condascending...
rough day.... I got my dick caught in the tree trimmer's mulcher today...
and NOW have to buy him 1600$ worth of new blades...
Bwhahahahahaahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahaa!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sig that, Bo Yakima!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
FREE and clean, Ripp'n

Lynk · 02-10-2010, 12:08 AM

WOOHOO!!! I got those fvckers out. It took a sacrificial 19mm socket, which just happened to be the right size to tap into the bearing. I used a Dremel and cut-off wheel to slot the square end. Tapped that guy into the bearing, then used a drift from the other side.

First two pictures are of the "tool." The last picture shows the hub with bearing spacer in place. Now, I can see why that bearing spacer didn't want to give me a shot at the race... ain't much clearance there. Grant, notice the stepped diameter; that's why your press would be of little benefit for removal.

Rippn · 02-10-2010, 01:09 AM

What a GREAT feeling!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SALUD, to your perserverence and ingenuity!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
FREE and clean, Ripp'n

dragracer1951 · 02-10-2010, 04:31 AM

Nice solution Michael...


02-09-2010, 03:48 PM	#1
Lynk MotoGP Contender Joined: Dec 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: a 2006 H-D XL1200C, 2005 Suzuki DR-Z400SM, 2000 Suzuki DR-Z400 kicker, 2005 Kawasaki KLX110, and 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6 (racebike).	Wheel bearing removal tool? Anyone around Seattle have a wheel bearing removal driver that I can use? I have a new pair of bearings for my Sportster, but no good way to remove the old. The ID of the bearings is 1". __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 04:25 PM	#2
james1300 Track School Dazed Joined: Oct 2005 From: CENTRAL I Ride: When I can	Bearing driver sets are available at Harbor Freaight or Schucks for around $15.00 a set. Then you will have a tool for when ever you need it! I have used a drift punch to get old bearings out. It destroys the bearing race. But, I didnt care, as I was replacing the old with new. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 04:26 PM	#3
vagrant Superbiker Joined: Mar 2008 From: Seattle, WA	long skinny drift? <--ghetto __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 04:28 PM	#4
Lynk MotoGP Contender Joined: Dec 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: a 2006 H-D XL1200C, 2005 Suzuki DR-Z400SM, 2000 Suzuki DR-Z400 kicker, 2005 Kawasaki KLX110, and 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6 (racebike).	Thanks, James. Harbor Freight didn't even occur to me. The spacer in this wheel would make the punch method awfully difficult. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 04:35 PM	#5
james1300 Track School Dazed Joined: Oct 2005 From: CENTRAL I Ride: When I can	Yes, but when you reach into the wheel hub with the drift punch, you will be able to see/feel where the drift needs to be placed. Theres a slight 'lip'. Hit the punch at the 12, 3,6, and 9 positions. Once you get the bearing to move it will be easier to work that bearing out. Is there a threaded alumininum set collar 'staked' in place on the outside of the wheel hub? __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter

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02-09-2010, 04:42 PM	#9
Lynk MotoGP Contender Joined: Dec 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: a 2006 H-D XL1200C, 2005 Suzuki DR-Z400SM, 2000 Suzuki DR-Z400 kicker, 2005 Kawasaki KLX110, and 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6 (racebike).	I may have a coupon around here. The bike's been down for a while, so if I have to order from MotionPro, then so be it. As for driving the new bearings, there is NO WAY I'm going to use that tool that Harbor Freight sells. These are sealed bearings; driving them from the inner race will damage them. Thanks for the suggestion. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 05:26 PM	#10
Rippn MotoGP Champion Joined: Apr 2007 From: soap lake wa. I Ride: 00kaw12r, 97 tls1000, 96gsxr1260 turbo freakshow, kz1300gt, 88gsxr1100, 86gsxr750, 82gsx1100ez, 79kz1300, 75 ducati750gts, 72 gt550 cafe	tappy tappy tappy... FREE and clean, Ripp'n __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 05:37 PM	#12
Rippn MotoGP Champion Joined: Apr 2007 From: soap lake wa. I Ride: 00kaw12r, 97 tls1000, 96gsxr1260 turbo freakshow, kz1300gt, 88gsxr1100, 86gsxr750, 82gsx1100ez, 79kz1300, 75 ducati750gts, 72 gt550 cafe	tastes like shit?... Bwhahahahahhaahahahahahahahahahahahahahaaa!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! sorry. FREE and clean, Ripp'n __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 07:09 PM	#13
Lynk MotoGP Contender Joined: Dec 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: a 2006 H-D XL1200C, 2005 Suzuki DR-Z400SM, 2000 Suzuki DR-Z400 kicker, 2005 Kawasaki KLX110, and 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6 (racebike).	I considered that possibility, James. I still need to get the old bearings out. There is no way a drift is going to work for these! I even dropped by Harbor Freight for a new set of punches. :( C'est la vie! __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 07:45 PM	#14
dragracer1951 Retired Joined: Sep 2005 From: Bremerton I Ride: 03 Are See fiddy one, 05 DRZ400SM, 95 FZR1040, 69 Combat Commando Roadster, 73 Commando Interstate, 67 BSA B44, 71 BSA B50	Grind a lip onto the drift. Works every time. Either that or make a slide hammer and head. Screw it onto the hammer from the inside. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 07:47 PM	#15
Grantizzle MotoGP Contender Joined: Feb 2008 From: Mill Creek, Wa I Ride: slower than you with a bigger grin!	i have a hydraulic press at my place if you wanna come press the bearing out. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 09:34 PM	#18
Rippn MotoGP Champion Joined: Apr 2007 From: soap lake wa. I Ride: 00kaw12r, 97 tls1000, 96gsxr1260 turbo freakshow, kz1300gt, 88gsxr1100, 86gsxr750, 82gsx1100ez, 79kz1300, 75 ducati750gts, 72 gt550 cafe	w/ respect.. what you ain't figured out is that that sleeve between the bearings , generaly can be wedged/cocked to give you a shot at bearing...WHAAAAAT????? Than ....tappy tappy tappy. It's been done that way for dang near...FOREVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!! Bwhahahahahahahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahaaa! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and the trouble w/ the sized tube and axle is a lack of proper maitainence... That axle/sleeve can usually always be saved... don't forget to slightly grease both upon reasembly... and PLEASE, DON'T POUND that axle, back through... if it isn't a smooth fit...look at the axle and sleeve for high spots/further corrosion. Pound it thru... and you might get to start over w/ new bearings... practicing your new found bearing removal skills... OH YIPPY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! if theres corrosion in the race, gentle clean it our w/OUT scrathing the surfaces. Take out and clean BOTH bearings/races first. I lay the new bearing on race top evenly and using a bearing instal'r or a peice of hard wood layed a cross the ENTIRE bearing face amed whack to get it started... you know when it sticks in the race evenly. The tap the wood, till flush or use the "chase" method of tapping around 360 on the OUTSIDE race of the bearing...GENTELY!!!!!!!!! After the bearing is flush w/ the hub, use a socket w/ the same OD as the bearing and tap it in or the "chase" method gently,w/a punch on the OD ONLY ...til seated. You can tell when it's seated by the tonal change to a "ring," as the last tap seats it. STAY away from that ID race. Flip the wheel over, lube the axle spacer and set it in place and start taping in the bearing. when you get close to seated... put the axle thru and line up the spacer w/ he axle and finish tapping the bearing in. if you find you have cocked the sleave the installed wide will be whrong ang it will seamingly not all fit right. Gease the lip of the seal on the inside and tap in eavenly on the top OD seal edge... over the the bearing, usually JUST flush w/ the hub edge. stck in your finger and "twist/spin the bearing and sleave to MAKE SHURE it all feels "FREE". Take the old bearings to a bearing house and get double sided seal bearings, and outside seals... for WAY cheaper than a MC dealer. Don't forget to properly torque your axle nut and fit the retaining cotter pin. time to learn... GOOD FOR YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FREE and clean, Ripp'n __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter Last edited by Rippn; 02-09-2010 at 10:00 PM..


02-09-2010, 10:10 PM	#20
Lynk MotoGP Contender Joined: Dec 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: a 2006 H-D XL1200C, 2005 Suzuki DR-Z400SM, 2000 Suzuki DR-Z400 kicker, 2005 Kawasaki KLX110, and 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6 (racebike).	With all due respect to you, Rippn, this is the first time the axle has been out of the bike. The factory neglected to follow their own damned manual and use anti-seize. To top things off, I've since learned that it's common practice for H-D dealerships to use an air-hammer for driving the axle out. I do not hammer axles into hubs. Critical fasteners on my bikes are always torqued to spec, as are most of the non-critical. The framing hammer was a last resort; here's what happened to a 2x2, after several very hard swings with a dead-blow hammer - the axle didn't move: I respect your experience; hence, my request for help. I am certainly wishing now that I had kept the old axle, as I could have easily crafted a split cotter bearing removal tool. The bearings that are in the bike have a beveled edge, and the spacer doesn't want to move enough to give me a striking surface. Jim, I'll call you later, and see if I can get there on Sunday. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 10:32 PM	#21
coastiepete MotoGP Contender Joined: Apr 2007 From: Port Angeles WA I Ride: ZX-10R, GS750, KX 500, 450 EXC-R	i know this spacer you are talking about. i have em too. i bet that the pressure on the spacers edges prevent it from tilting. or the rust monsters have corroded it. I'm not trying to insult you here, but have you tried putting some sideways pressure on both ends of the spacer tube? mine had a locating lip on them, but it was not centered. i was able to kinda pry it to the side a little and gain access to the edge of the bearing. It took a little work on the 33 year old bearings. edit: i just saw your post above. maybe some pry bar action? if it's a 1" opening, should be plenty of room to get it in there and wiggle yourself a little room. I think that's why they put the centering ring off center............ __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 11:11 PM	#22
Lynk MotoGP Contender Joined: Dec 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: a 2006 H-D XL1200C, 2005 Suzuki DR-Z400SM, 2000 Suzuki DR-Z400 kicker, 2005 Kawasaki KLX110, and 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6 (racebike).	Yeah, I was just trying to work it, Pete. No luck yet, but I have an idea. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-09-2010, 11:20 PM	#23
Rippn MotoGP Champion Joined: Apr 2007 From: soap lake wa. I Ride: 00kaw12r, 97 tls1000, 96gsxr1260 turbo freakshow, kz1300gt, 88gsxr1100, 86gsxr750, 82gsx1100ez, 79kz1300, 75 ducati750gts, 72 gt550 cafe	It's drive'n the axle back in, that destroys the bearings... who cares come'n out... w/in reason. Whack that spacer pry bar a good one, enough to get SOMETHING/ punch in on tha bearing ID in race and loosen/tap it outword a bit. Not try'n tobust yer chops... try'n to cover most probs and situations... not knowing your exp... eat the hay a spit the wire. I have found it educational to me when someone goes and cover EVERTHING(what I can remember... I'm chrunchy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) for the job... I always re-learn, as I remember too. I'm sorry if I sounded condascending... rough day.... I got my dick caught in the tree trimmer's mulcher today... and NOW have to buy him 1600$ worth of new blades... Bwhahahahahaahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahaa!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sig that, Bo Yakima!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FREE and clean, Ripp'n __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter Last edited by Rippn; 02-09-2010 at 11:25 PM..


02-10-2010, 12:08 AM	#24
Lynk MotoGP Contender Joined: Dec 2005 From: Bellevue, WA I Ride: a 2006 H-D XL1200C, 2005 Suzuki DR-Z400SM, 2000 Suzuki DR-Z400 kicker, 2005 Kawasaki KLX110, and 2003 Yamaha YZF-R6 (racebike).	WOOHOO!!! I got those fvckers out. It took a sacrificial 19mm socket, which just happened to be the right size to tap into the bearing. I used a Dremel and cut-off wheel to slot the square end. Tapped that guy into the bearing, then used a drift from the other side. First two pictures are of the "tool." The last picture shows the hub with bearing spacer in place. Now, I can see why that bearing spacer didn't want to give me a shot at the race... ain't much clearance there. Grant, notice the stepped diameter; that's why your press would be of little benefit for removal. __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-10-2010, 01:09 AM	#25
Rippn MotoGP Champion Joined: Apr 2007 From: soap lake wa. I Ride: 00kaw12r, 97 tls1000, 96gsxr1260 turbo freakshow, kz1300gt, 88gsxr1100, 86gsxr750, 82gsx1100ez, 79kz1300, 75 ducati750gts, 72 gt550 cafe	What a GREAT feeling!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SALUD, to your perserverence and ingenuity!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FREE and clean, Ripp'n __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter


02-10-2010, 04:31 AM	#26
dragracer1951 Retired Joined: Sep 2005 From: Bremerton I Ride: 03 Are See fiddy one, 05 DRZ400SM, 95 FZR1040, 69 Combat Commando Roadster, 73 Commando Interstate, 67 BSA B44, 71 BSA B50	Nice solution Michael... __________________ Follow PNW Riders on Facebook and Twitter

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